bought all the parts separately and built one for 6 pounds! housed it in a match box and my mate uses it. it works very well and takes no time to get used to using it.
DIY Head Tracker For A Tenner
- Thread starter Dead Fred
- Start date
The screw head is on top while the screw bore is at the bottom. Imagine driving the screws into the top of my head. That is the orientation. Did I get it reversed? The pdf needs to be more descriptive than screws up. :-/
Which version of the firmware does it have ?
if it's 2.0 it sounds like you've got the old pdf. If you run through the set-up processing using the latest UI that should show you which way up it goes with a picture
if it's 2.0 it sounds like you've got the old pdf. If you run through the set-up processing using the latest UI that should show you which way up it goes with a picture
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When I calibrate my Pro, the centres of the spheres of green and red calibration points do not coincide. Does this mean anything? Yaw stability is OK but not perfect.
Hey,
any way i can get the 9150 4.0.4 File for the Arduino IDE?
I can't use the Build-In Flashing Tool of the EDTracker UI since my 9150 MPU from Drotek uses the 0x69 adress instead of the Default 0x68, so i have to modify the Adresse manually.
Also is there a Changelog for 4.0.3 to 4.0.4?
any way i can get the 9150 4.0.4 File for the Arduino IDE?
I can't use the Build-In Flashing Tool of the EDTracker UI since my 9150 MPU from Drotek uses the 0x69 adress instead of the Default 0x68, so i have to modify the Adresse manually.
Also is there a Changelog for 4.0.3 to 4.0.4?
My spheres are out of line too and it is working fine. I've found ignoring the green calibration progress bar and just methodically doing the calibration until I'm satisfied all axes have been covered gets them better aligned. TBH, I've had the spheres wildly separated and it's worked fine too.
The red blobs are uncalibrated readings and the green are calibrated. So you can have a whacky, off-centre, stretched out red blob-sphere and that's absolutely fine as long as the green blob-sphere is spherical and central.
But this has caused confusion in the past so I'm thinking of replacing the blobs with something less distracting, like a big red X for 'not-calibrated' and a big green tick for 'Good'
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Nope
The EDTracker Pro is a standard USB device, like a joystick, so really is plug-and-play. The older DIY/9150 EDTrackers need the Arduino drivers and it's those that some folks have issues with under Windows 10 (having to unplug/replug to get it recognised)
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Hi everyone,
I have during Christmas time built a diy ED tracker using 9250 MPU, I used the latest 4.0.4 GUI tool to flash it with 9250 specific firmware (V4.0.3), it seems to be working fine in the game but I have a couple of issues looking for help:
1. after I flash the unit, the GUI will not always connect to the tracker until I reboot the PC.
2. even the tracker is flashed and calibrated, I am having the same issue as above
3. I assigned F6 to reset/recenter the tracker, it works fine in the GUI but didn't seems to work in the game. I can reset it using the physical button
4. In the game, it is always off center until I manually reset it
One additional point to note, due to my own mistake, I firstly flashed the tracker with the wrong firmware (the first one in the drop down list) and also at some point the GUI crashed/stopping working when I tried to flash it again with the 9250 firmware, I rebooted my PC and tried a couple of times before I can successfully flash it with 9250. I don't know if this is related.
Hope if there is anyone can help me on this.
I have during Christmas time built a diy ED tracker using 9250 MPU, I used the latest 4.0.4 GUI tool to flash it with 9250 specific firmware (V4.0.3), it seems to be working fine in the game but I have a couple of issues looking for help:
1. after I flash the unit, the GUI will not always connect to the tracker until I reboot the PC.
2. even the tracker is flashed and calibrated, I am having the same issue as above
3. I assigned F6 to reset/recenter the tracker, it works fine in the GUI but didn't seems to work in the game. I can reset it using the physical button
4. In the game, it is always off center until I manually reset it
One additional point to note, due to my own mistake, I firstly flashed the tracker with the wrong firmware (the first one in the drop down list) and also at some point the GUI crashed/stopping working when I tried to flash it again with the 9250 firmware, I rebooted my PC and tried a couple of times before I can successfully flash it with 9250. I don't know if this is related.
Hope if there is anyone can help me on this.
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The red blobs are uncalibrated readings and the green are calibrated. So you can have a whacky, off-centre, stretched out red blob-sphere and that's absolutely fine as long as the green blob-sphere is spherical and central.
But this has caused confusion in the past so I'm thinking of replacing the blobs with something less distracting, like a big red X for 'not-calibrated' and a big green tick for 'Good'
Decluttering the UI is never a bad thing IMO but everybody does the tick and cross. Be brave and use other universal symbols of success and failure like....erm... Thumbs up for "success!" and the middle finger for "try again sucker!"
Windows 10 by any chance? If so, this is a known issue with the Arduino build/drivers. On the list to address.
Possibly the game is "grabbing" the keyboard for itself; you can try running the GUI as Administrator.
Generally a quick recentre is normal after you've positioned your headset correctly/comfortably. It could be a number of factors but most likely is that the device was started up while it was moving or not level and pointing straight ahead... which no-one is really ever going to take that much care when plugging it in, hence a quick re-center should sort it.
Thanks brumster, I am using Windows 7 64-bit, I don't have plan to upgrade to Windows 10 yet. I also tried to logout and login again still the GUI won't connect the tracker until reboot. Despite the GUI won't connect the tracker, it is still working in the game.
I will try to load the GUI again as Admin and see any difference.
Actually I don't mind to do a quick recenter everytime I use it, it's just that the physical reset button isn't easy to reach (I drilled a small hole on the enclosure holding the tracker so I can push it with a pen), if the hot-key issue is fixed I can probably ignore it.
Just to share some pictures of my build (sorry it looks ugly, not very good at soldering)
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Just leave them off; leave it unconnected.
Hi Brumster,
Is that green light supposed to be blinking?
Also, I have correctly oriented the EDTracker pro ontop of my headset, calibrated it, and did the auto bias. Left and right appears to work correctly, but when I move my my head up (or down) and keep looking up (or down) the face seems to slowly drift downward, even though I continue looking up (or down). Any thoughts?
Update:
When I look up it drifts down and to *my* right. When I look down it drifts up and to *my* left.
Is that green light supposed to be blinking?
Also, I have correctly oriented the EDTracker pro ontop of my headset, calibrated it, and did the auto bias. Left and right appears to work correctly, but when I move my my head up (or down) and keep looking up (or down) the face seems to slowly drift downward, even though I continue looking up (or down). Any thoughts?
Update:
When I look up it drifts down and to *my* right. When I look down it drifts up and to *my* left.
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It's working now. It seems all I had to do was rerun the setup.
So when following a guide, I cut first, and measured after. Turns out I have the MPU with the NCS and FSYNC spots, and am now stuck with a protoboard that's 12x7. So now the MPU doesn't fit, and I have no idea what to connect those extra bits to even if it did. Would someone please tell me if I now need to order another protoboard, or if by some magic there's a workaround, and possibly refer me to a guide that includes my version of the MPU? I haven't soldered anything yet.
Thanks.
Cheers!
Edit:
Ok so I found the page on the website describing what to do in the event of a 10-pin. Basically I just need to put it together sans button to get the extra space I need, and do not have to do anything with the extra connections correct?
Thanks.
Cheers!
Edit:
Ok so I found the page on the website describing what to do in the event of a 10-pin. Basically I just need to put it together sans button to get the extra space I need, and do not have to do anything with the extra connections correct?
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Yep. If you're doing it on protoboard you can always put the button somewhere else if you want - it's only on the custom PCB that the button point is covered.
If you need another piece of protoboard I've got loads of the blasted things here so I can happily pop one in the post for you if you need
If you need another piece of protoboard I've got loads of the blasted things here so I can happily pop one in the post for you if you need
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I'm sure nobody cares, but my pre-built 9150 model is still as good as new, and working perfectly!
Wouldn't say that, all the People at EDTracker care. It's obvious by their stellar customer service. Shows their design and software is Top notch!