DIY Head Tracker For A Tenner
- Thread starter Dead Fred
- Start date
Since then I've gained more experience
The Pro Micro has a bootloader that's active for a fraction of a second before running whatever sketch is loaded. If you load a dodgy sketch or disconnect the device while it's being loaded to you can get into a state where it can't be forced back into bootloader mode by the Arduio IDE (which it needs to do to program it over usb).There is a way to force the bootloader to run for much longer and that is to ground the reset pin twice in quick succession. That forces the bootloader to run for 8 seconds which is just enough time to load a blink sketch and restore proper behaviour. More details here:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pro-micro--fio-v3-hookup-guide/troubleshooting-and-faq
Cheers,
Rob
Thank you for the link Rob. Comprehension is slowly sneaking in, I think.Since then I've gained more experience
There is a way to force the bootloader to run for much longer and that is to ground the reset pin twice in quick succession. That forces the bootloader to run for 8 seconds which is just enough time to load a blink sketch and restore proper behaviour. More details here:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pro-micro--fio-v3-hookup-guide/troubleshooting-and-faq
Cheers,
Rob
From that I understand that I don't need to order the USBTinyISP. You can just reset to 8s boot-loader and load a blink sketch if Windows does not recognise it.
I'm planning to build 4 of these (I have 3 boys to whom I have also bought Elite: Dangerous), so I don't mind getting the USBTinyISP if it's needed. I'm on a very steep learning curve here.
Yep, that's been working for me.
It's all good fun. I hadn't done anything like this 6 months ago! Touch wood - you won't need the USBTinyIPS. I haven't needed it to rescue a bricked pro micro once I worked out the double-tap reset.
Cheers,
Rob
the catch is using your brain to get it working haha, my kit just arrived today, will wait for a daughterboard to be available and then I can have a go at making it up
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If we are lucky the daughterboards should only be a week or so away.
Also waiting on them for my builds so hope its SOON
I been looking and seen a project box at the local electronics parts shop that looks like it will hold the finished build in ok. Just need to get the daughterboard before i can test it for fit. But will post details on it once I'm done.
As to how they compare to 3p caps and freetrack? If you mean how well they work in game then you don't have a problem, been using one built on a breadboard for the last month or so and even before the drift issues were fully fix I was hooked.
Got orders to build some for my mates just from my word of mouth and them seeing me with a funny cyborg headset at a private lan party.
Very tempted to get one of these:
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1200712/cobra-mkiii-wireframe-13cm.html?li=search-results&materialId=6
to put the ED tracker in a'top me head
http://www.shapeways.com/model/1200712/cobra-mkiii-wireframe-13cm.html?li=search-results&materialId=6
to put the ED tracker in a'top me head
http://hobbycomponents.com/index.php/diy-head-tracker-bundle.html
Seems like they have noticed the demand for the parts and put together a kit for us.
Everything you need in one place with a link to Brunster's youtube video.
I have never built any electronics before but I am keen to give this a try. I want to buy this kit but have a couple of noob questions:
-The pins look quite long in the picture. Will I need some sort of tool to cut them to size?
-will I need solder and a soldering iron for this?
-will I also need to buy wires to connect everything together?
-I'm guessing I'll also need to buy a microUSB to USB cable if I don't already have one?
-does anyone know of a youtube video showing someone wiring one of these things up?
Thanks
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in answer to your questions in order
NO; they are the ideal length - short end to module long end to board
YES; to solder the pins to the modules - i recommend a fine point one - don’t forget to buy solder - plenty of utube videos on how to solder correctly. Practice on something else first (-:
YES; Maplin or hobby components are your friends they sell packs of wires ideal for this http://hobbycomponents.com/index.php/arduino-breadboard-jumper-cable-wires-65-cable-pack.html
YES; be carefull with the Micro USB socket its fragile
NO; but there’s a video about breadboards below
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiqNaSPTI7w
best to try out on breadboard first after soldering pins to modules
get something like this:
http://hobbycomponents.com/index.php/breadboard-270-point-solderless-pcb.html
Good luck, and there’s plenty of folk here know about programming - I can’t help with that - I gave up after messing around for hours with drivers in win7pro!
PS handy hint about soldering: place together the parts that need soldering and heat them with the soldering iron before applying the solder to join.
if you got some spare time (-: watch this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
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I'm tempted to have a go at that, once I've bought a soldering iron and cleared anything combustuble out of the garage.
When I break it and have to buy another I think my brother's pretty handy with solder - I'll offer to let him do it.
B
When I break it and have to buy another I think my brother's pretty handy with solder - I'll offer to let him do it.
B
That is great thank you! I will buy a breadboard for testing out the circuit and also an extra circuit board for practicing soldering skills.
I've decided to build this head tracker too, since I just can't stand giving money to a company as terrible as NaturalPoint, no matter how good TrackIR is.
The only problem is that I live in France, and none of the electronic shops I've found have equivalent arduino boards in the same price range (they're all above 25 €).
Hobby Components seems to ship to international, but I'm not sure which shipping method I should choose. Is the basic "Airmail" good enough for electronic components? Or should I go for "Royal Mail International Signed", or "Airsure"? (and what's the difference between these two?)
Btw, a big thanks to everyone involved in the development!
The only problem is that I live in France, and none of the electronic shops I've found have equivalent arduino boards in the same price range (they're all above 25 €).
Hobby Components seems to ship to international, but I'm not sure which shipping method I should choose. Is the basic "Airmail" good enough for electronic components? Or should I go for "Royal Mail International Signed", or "Airsure"? (and what's the difference between these two?)
Btw, a big thanks to everyone involved in the development!