I mapped landing gear to flightstick button 7 , so they are mappable .
Hardware & Technical Saitek x55 rhino
- Thread starter Oculus
- Start date
I mapped landing gear to flightstick button 7 , so they are mappable .
In the UK, Scan are now selling the X-55 Rhino for £129, cheaper than they are selling the X-52 and the X-52pro. Might be an error on their part or they just got a large batch delivered but probably worth a go if you want one.
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/sait...s-(hands-on-throttle-and-stick)-system-for-pc
http://www.scan.co.uk/products/sait...s-(hands-on-throttle-and-stick)-system-for-pc
Anyone got one of these and using it with elite dangerous? Some impressions would be good
Thanks
I do have one on pre-order so don't slag it off too hard
I have one and really like it. I just need to get a button layout I am fluid with. Right now I keep flipping back to my Xbox controller because of the ease of use as well as my voice commands. Which don't transfer over when you switch to the hotas layout so you have to remake them with hit as buttons. All in all the hotas works great.
It's what I use. Buy a powered USB Hub, or you may have issues with ghost keys (boost activating randomly while you're in a station). Once you get that, the x55 is the next best HOTAS setup after the Warthog imo. That's definitely subjective, but I like mine.
Its the product quality and the internal wiring (see prev posts by myself and a few others).
The internal looms are not installed and kink/stress over time fracturing each wire that
goes up into the throttle levers.
I think most large retailers have had a lot of these back and are trying to clear them out.
Personally, I really like the stick and throttle so im not RMAing my second one im
fixing with some heat shrink.
If you take the bottom off the throttle you will see what i mean (there are no warranty
stickers) so when you get a new stick have a look to see if any of the wires are fractured
from day 1 and keep an eye on them. Mine started to crack after a month. Cheap wire
used also not great and they are dripping in the friction compound used .... increasing
friction between them.
Last edited:
I have the nipple fix in my profile if it helps. See my sig.
Thank for that I will keep an eye on mine. I currently have an X52pro but for the money the X55 was too good to pass up.
For the first year if it goes wrong it goes back, possibly for even longer if you start arguing the Sale of Goods Act and EU regs about how long goods should work for.
So I had my first intense dogfights with the Rhino and I have to say, I'm not impressed.
The stick has good precision on all axis, but from an ergonomic point of view, it's rubbish!
The hats to the right (Castle and Witch) are almost unusable especially when under stress. I made a 'spacer' to lift my hand by about 0.8 cm to reach all hats. Still, because of the poor choice of 'hat types' a 'miss-click' under stress is inevitable.
I cannot even reach the lever (pinky switch) close to button D, I used plastic zips and straps to build a reachable adapter so I can use it with my middle finger.
The button D is recessed, so it is not optimal either.
After a few hours of use I really feel my hand is under stress. My cheap Logitech 3D pro (<30EUR !!!) did a much better job here.
I'm currently undecided what to do, either I heavily modify it (changing hats) or I'll send it back.
Btw. I'm not using the Throttle, instead I'm using my Logitech G13.
I used the button and hat descriptions from CMDR Solaris, see below.
The stick has good precision on all axis, but from an ergonomic point of view, it's rubbish!
The hats to the right (Castle and Witch) are almost unusable especially when under stress. I made a 'spacer' to lift my hand by about 0.8 cm to reach all hats. Still, because of the poor choice of 'hat types' a 'miss-click' under stress is inevitable.
I cannot even reach the lever (pinky switch) close to button D, I used plastic zips and straps to build a reachable adapter so I can use it with my middle finger.
The button D is recessed, so it is not optimal either.
After a few hours of use I really feel my hand is under stress. My cheap Logitech 3D pro (<30EUR !!!) did a much better job here.
I'm currently undecided what to do, either I heavily modify it (changing hats) or I'll send it back.
Btw. I'm not using the Throttle, instead I'm using my Logitech G13.
I used the button and hat descriptions from CMDR Solaris, see below.
Isn't the red button (button D) the pinky switch? Anyway nice diagram.
Hey there Presteign, I think officially the trigger in front of button D is the pinky switch (but who's counting lol)
Above my profile post there was a guy who was making some spacers to help those with smaller hands on the Rhino. Not sure if they are still doing it or not or if it helps you at this stage.
If the controller is causing you pain though, personally I would stop using it and try something else. I do get that a bit after long sessions, but for me its mainly due to the controllers being higher position than my elbows (forearm tilted up for too long). Got nowhere else to put them currently so dealing with the limitation.
I wouldn't mind changing the H2 hat switch to something less sharp on the edges since that gets a lot of use, but I don't know how you would go about getting another POV or H1 switch replacement as a spare part.
Above my profile post there was a guy who was making some spacers to help those with smaller hands on the Rhino. Not sure if they are still doing it or not or if it helps you at this stage.
If the controller is causing you pain though, personally I would stop using it and try something else. I do get that a bit after long sessions, but for me its mainly due to the controllers being higher position than my elbows (forearm tilted up for too long). Got nowhere else to put them currently so dealing with the limitation.
I wouldn't mind changing the H2 hat switch to something less sharp on the edges since that gets a lot of use, but I don't know how you would go about getting another POV or H1 switch replacement as a spare part.
The hat switch sounds like a perfect use for a 3D printed part to replace the existing button.
For the pain, as suggested it might be to do with angles of arms etc, try a booster cushion for the additional height?
Or, more drastically, put the joystick and throttle lower. Controls like that are usually placed pretty low in cockpits, after all.
I'd really like something like:
http://www.simhq.com/_technology3/technology_188a.html
..since I don't have the space or inclination to build my own right now. Any suggestions from the peanut gallery?
Last edited:
Oh that would be perfect for a 3D printer project ... if anyone can help I would be interested in trying one out.
For me I don't notice any pain, just some discomfort after several hours. The other guy I was responding to, was having some more serious issues with that though. Without modifying my setup a fair bit I cant really lower them further. Likewise raising the seat wont really work as I wont fit my legs under the desk.
Note to self ... need to build a custom cockpit
For me I don't notice any pain, just some discomfort after several hours. The other guy I was responding to, was having some more serious issues with that though. Without modifying my setup a fair bit I cant really lower them further. Likewise raising the seat wont really work as I wont fit my legs under the desk.
Note to self ... need to build a custom cockpit
Yeah, I was semi-angling for someone to suddenly pitch in with good solutions... ahem... short of building a cockpit
I got my saitek x 55 today .... well ... i'm stuck: the twitch only works to one side, if i twitch opposite it will execute the same left RZ axis .... completely unplayable like that. I use twitch to roll .... if I apply yaw to twitch axis same problem: it only recognises the left twitch input ... have downloaded drivers and software and i have calibrated .... seems that calibration also indicates that there's no opposite twitch input recognised .... Does this mean i was unlucky and got a 'broken' one? Must I return to sender? :S
If you do not get any signal when twitching right (as you indicate), it seems you got a faulty model. Have you tried configuring it with the default Windows controller config?
SHi, thanks for the replies.
Anyway I will see what's possible. Maybe it's even possible to move the hats around.
I doubt Saitek is selling spare parts, this device looks and feels like: Throw-away and buy new when broken.
I would pay double for a good stick, but the only alternative (The Warthog) has no twist and this is mandatory for me.
I've read there might be a new HOTAS coming specifically for Star Citizen, maybe that's going to be a real thing.
Cheers
I saw them on ebay, but I build one myself. It's pretty easy, I used the cardboard from the amazon packaging. =)
It's not exactly bad pain but I just feel how tiring it is.
Exactly what I thought. Only problem: I have to get a 3D printer first.
Anyway I will see what's possible. Maybe it's even possible to move the hats around.
I doubt Saitek is selling spare parts, this device looks and feels like: Throw-away and buy new when broken.
I would pay double for a good stick, but the only alternative (The Warthog) has no twist and this is mandatory for me.
I've read there might be a new HOTAS coming specifically for Star Citizen, maybe that's going to be a real thing.
Cheers
I had some serious tendinitis caused by having the Rhino on my desk, which is a higher surface than my keyboard shelf. The shelf is the 'perfect' height for me, which makes the desk too high.
My solution has been to spend far too much money on a wheelstandpro. It lets me almost infinitely adjust the height and angle of the Rhino, lower and in front of the keyboard shelf. It also has the advantage of being 'folded away under the desk when I don't need it.
http://wheelstandpro.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=62
I know the picture is a Warthog, but it also comes with pre-drilled holes and screws/bolts for the Rhino. If you have Saitek pedals, it has mounts for those too.
I really have spent a stupid amount of money on this 'game'
My solution has been to spend far too much money on a wheelstandpro. It lets me almost infinitely adjust the height and angle of the Rhino, lower and in front of the keyboard shelf. It also has the advantage of being 'folded away under the desk when I don't need it.
http://wheelstandpro.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=62
I know the picture is a Warthog, but it also comes with pre-drilled holes and screws/bolts for the Rhino. If you have Saitek pedals, it has mounts for those too.
I really have spent a stupid amount of money on this 'game'
Last edited: