Okey? But where do I find it? I have looked through the support pages and can't find it..
Hardware & Technical Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread
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Okey? But where do I find it? I have looked through the support pages and can't find it..
Okey? But where do I find it? I have looked through the support pages and can't find it..
He is referring to this image. It is available from the Thrustmaster support site, but the site appears to be down at the moment so I can't post the link.
I haven't seen anything similar for the throttle I'm afraid. A quick look at it shows a couple of screw holes on the base top right and bottom left (looking at the base), around an inch in. I have never felt the need to secure either the throttle or stick this way, the pads on the base, so long as they are clean, seem to keep mine in place well enough.
Mounting diagram for the throttle would normally be here: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/twcs-throttle-en/ if the site wasn't down 
ISTR it's in the top section (Manual?). Typically, it's the only file I haven't downloaded
ISTR it's in the top section (Manual?). Typically, it's the only file I haven't downloaded
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Mounting diagram for the throttle would normally be here: https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/twcs-throttle-en/ if the site wasn't down
I have the throttle manual, and there's no 'mounting diagram' in it, just button / hat layout and instructions on how to adjust the throttle friction.
It's not in the manual, it's in the section that is called "Manual", which contains the manual and the mounting diagram (this is from memory when I looked at the website a couple of days ago).
Now the site is up and running again.
Here is the link for the throttle:
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/manuals/TWCS_throttle/TWCS-Cockpit-Setup.pdf
Now I'm going to measure and plan my simulator table! Thx for the help guys!
I am currently using a Warthog throttle, and, I have to say, for ED, I still find the CH Pro to be the best throttle. Period. The analog stick, hats and buttons are all in great places, and offer os much control. If only we could have a CH Pro layout throttle with Warthog metal build and electronics...
I still want to try out the FCS, though. I find the Warthog throttle is just not up to it for ED, I can't gel with digital lateral thrusters. Seeing a sI have two set ups, I need a second throttle, and am hoping the FCS will work well - I've been planning to pick one up for a while, just have not gotten around to it, and I've been hearing a lotof reports of the analog stick on it going bad very quick...
Anyone confirm or deny that?
Z...
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Not had any problems with my analogue ministick going bad but you will need Joystick Curves if you're planning to use it for thrusters. It can be very sensitive due to its relatively small amount of travel.
In fact, I've set a landing override to assign vertical thrust to the paddle, for a bit more control in those high-G situations.
In fact, I've set a landing override to assign vertical thrust to the paddle, for a bit more control in those high-G situations.
No problems here with the analogue stick (had the HOTAS for about 3.5 months I think). But I needed to set a small deadzone in the game options as there seemed to be a tiny constant input to one side (have seen others report the same).
Agreed, it's far too sensitive especially in the more maneuverable ships. I read about someone attaching rubber tap washers to the stick to lengthen it which seems like a good idea (though would it then get in the way of the paddle?). I stopped using it for thrusters in the end mainly because Joystick Curves/vjoy was causing my bindings to not save. And don't forget to enable the center deadzone setting in the TWCS control panel.
Agreed, it's far too sensitive especially in the more maneuverable ships. I read about someone attaching rubber tap washers to the stick to lengthen it which seems like a good idea (though would it then get in the way of the paddle?). I stopped using it for thrusters in the end mainly because Joystick Curves/vjoy was causing my bindings to not save. And don't forget to enable the center deadzone setting in the TWCS control panel.
I though that too but it turned out Joystick Curves had stopped responding. Seems to happen every time I plug an Xbox controller into my machine. Just need to kill Joystick Curves and restart it again, and all my axes start working again. Work around: avoid using an Xbox controller for ANYTHING.
Also depends which vjoy driver you're using. I find the Headsoft one is far more stable: the other one stops Assetto Corsa from working altogether.
Aaaaanyway, back on topic...
Ditto. Also, it's much safer to have the vertical thrusters isolated from the other two axes when landing.
Interesting. I'll try and grab one when I get back to Sydney early next week. I'll probably mod the analog stick for length, though I'm starting to get the hang of the position, as the Warthog throttle I'm currently using has had the 4 way stick at the index finger bound for thrusters. I really wish a proper high end throttle would pop up with a good, hi res magnetic sensor analog stick... Anyway, Will see how I go, I may see if I can mod it with a thumbstick from an Xbox style controller. Be interesting if I could move the stick location (yes, I have a habit of ripping my electronics apart)...
Z...
I'll be interested in how you find the Thrustmaster throttle compared to the CH Pro. I personally don't use analog joystick for thrusters. A four way hat works fine for me. I pulse it for landing.
It's one of those things, once you've had it, you can't go back. I realised how mich I use fine adjustments when I am forced to use on/off inputs. It's not unplayable or anything, but I feel like I am a touch crippled.
Z...
Yeah, using the cheaper sticks is like punching with weights on your hands. Makes you really appreciate the preciseness of the hall effect sensors.
Analog vertical/lateral thrusters are a must have for me.
Doesn't have much to do with the sensor type...neither the FCS HOTAS or the CH Pro Throttle are perfect (the latter is probably slightly more accurate, but both need a small dead zone and the range of useful motion is pretty narrow), but the simple fact that you have more granularity than on/off is a huge deal.
Doesn't have much to do with the sensor type...neither the FCS HOTAS or the CH Pro Throttle are perfect (the latter is probably slightly more accurate, but both need a small dead zone and the range of useful motion is pretty narrow), but the simple fact that you have more granularity than on/off is a huge deal.
I really like the joystick as a step up from the Thrustmaster HOTAS-X I had been using. There's no slack zone in the middle where the stick just flops about and there are lots of options on the throttle for binding. I do miss my old throttle's detent to switch between forward and reverse thrust (mostly on the SRV) but I am getting used to it. All the buttons on the base of the stick are pretty terrible though. They do not have any sort of clickyness to them and it is hard to feel what button you're pressing without looking. In VR they have to be things you don't really need in a hurry. It is hard to tell if you actually pressed them at all.
The main reason I got this stick though was because the HOTAS-X doesn't have any sort of mounting holes. I am super happy now that my stick and throttle are firmly bolted to PVC and haven't caused a catastrophe by coming off in the middle of a maneuver with a VR headset on. I've posted the 3D files to Thingiverse if anyone wants to make their own.
The main reason I got this stick though was because the HOTAS-X doesn't have any sort of mounting holes. I am super happy now that my stick and throttle are firmly bolted to PVC and haven't caused a catastrophe by coming off in the middle of a maneuver with a VR headset on. I've posted the 3D files to Thingiverse if anyone wants to make their own.
I just modded a slack zone with 2 small neodymium magnets. I took the throttle base apart and glued one magnet with hot glue on the left side of the sled, moved it to the middle position, marked the spot and glued the other magnet to the part where the left rail is mounted. It requires a small dead zone, but almost feels like the HOTAS X, just a bit smoother.