Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas X Discussion thread.

Had a power out yesterday and when it came back on I noticed that my Hotas-X was stuck in 4 axis mode(red light). In trying to resolve it I noticed that when right clicking the Hotas icon in the Printers & Other devices screen I didn't have the Thrustmaster screen, just the Windows one. Thinking that the power out had somehow deleted the installed thrustmaster drivers I went to their site to download a new set and found that there was a new update from earlier this year which apparently solves certain problems with Windows 8 & 10 users. I downloaded it but before I installed it I remembered reading here that some user had a problem like mine which was resolved by shutting down the PC/Laptop unplugging the USB and then replugging it back in again before signing in on the restart. I did this and it worked so I never installed the new Thrustmaster drivers I had downloaded as I just wanted to play the game to ensure that my control bindings were working again(they were). This morning I thought about installing the new update but although it is for all Windows systems it says it is a fix for Windows 8 & 10 and as I have a Windows 7 OS I thought perhaps I should leave well enough alone. At 66 I am not particularly tekkie orientated, however I thought I would post a link to said update at the Thrustmaster Support site for those of you who do use Windows 8 & 10 and to ask others if I should install the update anyway?.

Imho: if it works well dont replace controller drivers.
 
Learning to map one of the buttons to be a shift key was the best idea ever, now I literally don't need the keyboard for anything except chat.
Between that and the Tobii EyeX flying is now extremely intuitive.
 
Had a power out yesterday and when it came back on I noticed that my Hotas-X was stuck in 4 axis mode(red light). In trying to resolve it I noticed that when right clicking the Hotas icon in the Printers & Other devices screen I didn't have the Thrustmaster screen, just the Windows one. Thinking that the power out had somehow deleted the installed thrustmaster drivers I went to their site to download a new set and found that there was a new update from earlier this year which apparently solves certain problems with Windows 8 & 10 users. I downloaded it but before I installed it I remembered reading here that some user had a problem like mine which was resolved by shutting down the PC/Laptop unplugging the USB and then replugging it back in again before signing in on the restart. I did this and it worked so I never installed the new Thrustmaster drivers I had downloaded as I just wanted to play the game to ensure that my control bindings were working again(they were). This morning I thought about installing the new update but although it is for all Windows systems it says it is a fix for Windows 8 & 10 and as I have a Windows 7 OS I thought perhaps I should leave well enough alone. At 66 I am not particularly tekkie orientated, however I thought I would post a link to said update at the Thrustmaster Support site for those of you who do use Windows 8 & 10 and to ask others if I should install the update anyway?.

I'm on Windows 7 and I installed that update. The only difference it made was to add the new/updated Thrustmaster control panel (the only function of which is for test purposes which you can do from the default Windows panel anyway). As others have said, leave it alone in case something goes wrong.

Try this see if it helps

How to set up your HOTAS

But that guide suggests you need to install GlovePIE to have that functionality, which is not true. You just use modifier keys from the in-game control options.
 
But that guide suggests you need to install GlovePIE to have that functionality, which is not true. You just use modifier keys from the in-game control options.

Noted. I didn't read it, I just found it as a relevant post.



From what I was told... Suppose you want [Button-5 + Thumb-hat-stick-right] to be "Select next target", you simply find the "Select next target" setting in the bindings list, click on it with the mouse to enter a new binding and then hold down Button-5, press the Thumb-hat-stick-right and then release both.

Not tried it myself yet. Keep meaning too but learning all those buttons again..
 
Yes indeed. I have three of my throttle buttons as shift modifiers. That way I get all of the stick buttons as four different functions. Three with a throttle button held in and one vanilla. So basically 16 buttons on the stick and 16 hat direction assignments. Thats in effect 32 butons with another 3 plus the slider on the throttle. I actually use the slider as select next and previous target. That way I can see who everyone is in SC on the way to the station without unlocking the station from my nav desitination. Which happens if you point at a ship and press select target.
 
Yes indeed. I have three of my throttle buttons as shift modifiers. That way I get all of the stick buttons as four different functions. Three with a throttle button held in and one vanilla. So basically 16 buttons on the stick and 16 hat direction assignments. Thats in effect 32 butons with another 3 plus the slider on the throttle. I actually use the slider as select next and previous target. That way I can see who everyone is in SC on the way to the station without unlocking the station from my nav desitination. Which happens if you point at a ship and press select target.


I really must get my head around this. I'm just so used to my HOTAS setup I think I'd get confused :)
 
Is there any real difference between the PS3 T.Flight and the new PS4 compatible one worth mentioning? Anything that can be used in the PC?
 
Came across a post in another thread on Analogue or Digital settings. I set up my Hotas X under a custom option in the ingame Control Options using the boxes provided to set my bindings. Now everything appears to work well for me since I set it up but how do I know whether my bindings are analogue or digital and how can I tell?. Does this have anything to do with the mapping and presets options on the outside of the R/H joystick control, in fact does anyone use those options instead of the ingame controls to set up their Hotas X bindings?.
 
Came across a post in another thread on Analogue or Digital settings. I set up my Hotas X under a custom option in the ingame Control Options using the boxes provided to set my bindings. Now everything appears to work well for me since I set it up but how do I know whether my bindings are analogue or digital and how can I tell?. Does this have anything to do with the mapping and presets options on the outside of the R/H joystick control, in fact does anyone use those options instead of the ingame controls to set up their Hotas X bindings?.

If you have set a binding against an 'Axis' then it's analogue. Everything else will be digital.

The mapping and preset buttons are essentially redundant for most modern PC games (they might still be useful for PS3).
 
Squeaky Joystick - Fixed

I installed a Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS X some weeks ago and its joystick developed a most appalling squeak. Having read a wide range of suggestions, in this forum and elsewhere, I decided to go with a PTFE-based dry lubricant, and I have to say that the result was highly successful.

The brand I bought (I can name it if that is acceptable forum practice) included a long nozzle with which it was possible to get the product right inside and on to the moving parts. I was pleased about this because I didn't fancy disassembling my month-old joystick. I found that the rubber sleeve on the joystick can be pulled back to give sufficient access to the relevant parts.

Now, all is quiet and smooth.
 
I installed a Thrustmaster T.Flight HOTAS X some weeks ago and its joystick developed a most appalling squeak. Having read a wide range of suggestions, in this forum and elsewhere, I decided to go with a PTFE-based dry lubricant, and I have to say that the result was highly successful.

The brand I bought (I can name it if that is acceptable forum practice) included a long nozzle with which it was possible to get the product right inside and on to the moving parts. I was pleased about this because I didn't fancy disassembling my month-old joystick. I found that the rubber sleeve on the joystick can be pulled back to give sufficient access to the relevant parts.

Now, all is quiet and smooth.

Thanks for that, I will try it. Please post details of the brand etc. I'm fairly certain that is allowed.
 
Thanks for that, I will try it. Please post details of the brand etc. I'm fairly certain that is allowed.

It's a WD-40 product and is described as: Specialist Anti Friction Dry PTFE Lubricant.

I bought this in Halfords where it costs £4.99 - maybe there are bargains to be had online, but for me the PTFE in the hand is worth two in the post.
 
If you have set a binding against an 'Axis' then it's analogue. Everything else will be digital.

And if green button is pressed, the throttle device will be digital, button wil be red)

If You use S-curve utility, you will have even greater precision.
 
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