Thrustmaster t16000m fcs hotas vs logitech X52?
- Thread starter Jankules
- Start date
If you have a chance to try how they feel, that might help a lot in deciding.
Can't comment on the x52,
T16000 is pretty good although there's a fairly common problem where after a while the stick develops a continual yaw in one direction or the other, its easy enough to fix most of the time and there's plenty of youtube videos showing how to open it up and clean or lubricate the thingy inside.
It does make landing far more interesting.
T16000 is pretty good although there's a fairly common problem where after a while the stick develops a continual yaw in one direction or the other, its easy enough to fix most of the time and there's plenty of youtube videos showing how to open it up and clean or lubricate the thingy inside.
It does make landing far more interesting.
You need pedals on any thrust master stick or be able to use a screwdriver as others stated the Yaw controll does not last on the t16000...
The yaw pot is in the wrong location and can pick up static from the column shaft its wires run in as well..
The logitech x52 avoids this as the pot is not cheap plastic but metal and located at the bottom of the handle not the top of the shaft..
This can be avoided on thrust master by using pedals at extra cost for yaw but not every one will want the extra costs..
Also not every flight stick is available in your country or suppliers may not want to risk shipping so the choice may be removed from you any way due to lack of supplies for both currently...
Not all USB ports are equal and many do not supply smooth DC power... The X52 has shown to be Picky on USB power delivery from Computers..
Thats why a USB Hub with its own wall power has been recommended for the X52 unit..
If you can actually find a supplier for both and willing to ship at these times, then get a mains powered USB 2.0 and greater hub and a X52...
The yaw pot is in the wrong location and can pick up static from the column shaft its wires run in as well..
The logitech x52 avoids this as the pot is not cheap plastic but metal and located at the bottom of the handle not the top of the shaft..
This can be avoided on thrust master by using pedals at extra cost for yaw but not every one will want the extra costs..
Also not every flight stick is available in your country or suppliers may not want to risk shipping so the choice may be removed from you any way due to lack of supplies for both currently...
Not all USB ports are equal and many do not supply smooth DC power... The X52 has shown to be Picky on USB power delivery from Computers..
Thats why a USB Hub with its own wall power has been recommended for the X52 unit..
If you can actually find a supplier for both and willing to ship at these times, then get a mains powered USB 2.0 and greater hub and a X52...
x52 here since a bit over 2 years, no issues so far. No power issue as well. I had a Sidewinder Force Feedback before, and I miss the precision and feeling of that thing, but not the limited buttons on it, and certainly not the throttle lever. All in all the x52 was an upgrade, given that they don't do reasonable FF anymore.
On the T16000: I once tried it in a shop, and was not impressed by the throttle lever: the slider style is not my cup of tea. YMMV.
On the T16000: I once tried it in a shop, and was not impressed by the throttle lever: the slider style is not my cup of tea. YMMV.
Hi
I've worn out one T16000(green lit one), and one T16000FCS (shiny orange light) They developed a dodgy yaw so I exchanged them with two Thrustmaster "Airbus" edition. So far I got the impression they have better build quality and accuracy (AX combat suddenly got a bit easier). And they cut the annoying light so that was an extra bonus.
Cheers
DZ
I've worn out one T16000(green lit one), and one T16000FCS (shiny orange light) They developed a dodgy yaw so I exchanged them with two Thrustmaster "Airbus" edition. So far I got the impression they have better build quality and accuracy (AX combat suddenly got a bit easier). And they cut the annoying light so that was an extra bonus.
Cheers
DZ
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I like the T16000M, but the yaw issue is . . . tiring, to put it politely. I disassembled one, cleaned it, put it back together, and it worked well . . . for about six months. I had a spare lying around, so I connected that one (I'm currently not in the mood to open the old one up AGAIN and clean it AGAIN).
I am seriously considering plonking down the dosh to get a Gladiator NXT -- yes, it's three times the price, but gut feeling says its twist will NOT crap out on me after three to six months of hard use, and I can use it with the (excellent) Thrustmaster Throttle and the (quite good) Thrustmaster pedals, so . . .
I am seriously considering plonking down the dosh to get a Gladiator NXT -- yes, it's three times the price, but gut feeling says its twist will NOT crap out on me after three to six months of hard use, and I can use it with the (excellent) Thrustmaster Throttle and the (quite good) Thrustmaster pedals, so . . .
The twist system may need servicing with grease in time depends on how long the one you get has been sat on the shelf since creation...
I've used both sticks, although I haven't used either the Thrustmaster throttle or the Logitech x52.
The T16000.M is a superior stick when it works - I far prefer its throw, and the sensors are significantly more precise than those of the x52. The x52 has a good crown with lots of hats and buttons, but the actual sensors on the version I used left, in my experience, a lot to be desired.
The x52 also has issues with its DIN cable connecting the throttle to the stick - the socket can wear out over time and develop a distinct wobble with attendant dodgy connections. Handle it with care and it should be fine. If all else fails, you can always bodge something with sellotape or Blu-Tak (I have done this.)
The T16000.M is a superior stick when it works - I far prefer its throw, and the sensors are significantly more precise than those of the x52. The x52 has a good crown with lots of hats and buttons, but the actual sensors on the version I used left, in my experience, a lot to be desired.
The x52 also has issues with its DIN cable connecting the throttle to the stick - the socket can wear out over time and develop a distinct wobble with attendant dodgy connections. Handle it with care and it should be fine. If all else fails, you can always bodge something with sellotape or Blu-Tak (I have done this.)
I fly Elite with dual T.16000 joysticks. Pitch and roll axes use Hall sensors and control is superb. I use the T.A.R.G.E.T scripting language to double the functionality of the top stick buttons and the sticks work very well for me in VR. The stick’s weak link is the yaw axis. Over the course of five years while running Elite concurrently on two work stations I’ve had the yaw axis go flakey on three of eight T.16000 joysticks, although two of those were replaced under warranty. Not bullet proof kit, but good enough and not outrageously expensive. I like the way they work for my style of playing so much I keep a couple of spares just in case. Your mileage may vary.
o7
o7
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X52 Pro with two J-Pien mounts! Great HOTAS, look and feel.
Worst part about the X52 for me was the suction cups ain’t worth crap unless you have a glass desk so buying a proper mount is a must.
Worst part about the X52 for me was the suction cups ain’t worth crap unless you have a glass desk so buying a proper mount is a must.
I've been quite happy with my T16000m FCS, have had if a few years now.
Only problems I've had are the orange light at the base of the stick (easily solved with some black tape) and recent breakdown of throttle buttons - when I press one, Windows sees all of them pressed simultaneously. Not a problem while exploring, but if I get an urge to do some combat, simple mapping of secondary keys won't do, I'll need the button/hat functionality of the throttle.
Only problems I've had are the orange light at the base of the stick (easily solved with some black tape) and recent breakdown of throttle buttons - when I press one, Windows sees all of them pressed simultaneously. Not a problem while exploring, but if I get an urge to do some combat, simple mapping of secondary keys won't do, I'll need the button/hat functionality of the throttle.
As long as it is possible to open the stick without sacrificing my firstborn to some dark, terrible god, I'll be quite happy... more so if the construction isn't as "interesting" as that of the T-16000M, where you can so easily lose the little "nipples" which transmit pressure from the buttons to the sensors below -- not only are they translucent and small, they are not even glued to the buttons. Putting the thing back together is complicated, unless you simply glue them on (as I did -- the guy in the video I watched used some complicated contraption to hold them in place, but I couldn't be bothered...).
No membrain switches... they are japan micro switches not analogue pressure membrain switches...
The dual trigger press is two switches set at different heights so as it hits the first its still needs to travel more distance to hit the second...
Either one will suit your purposes, and will work well, for a while ( especially the T16k ). It's the length of that 'while' that's the biggest issue and pushed most of us to purchase elsewhere. I would steer clear of the T16k. They work great, until they don't. I got less than 6 months out of my last one, and that left me a bit bitter on their products. Never had an X-series JS so I can't comment except for what I've seen in the forums.
I'd question your decision to not purchase better. You can get a VKB NXT for $150. That's certainly comparable to an X-52, price wise, but double what a T16k can be had for on Amazon. I don't know your exact situation and any factors that are influencing your decision. I just know myself, and how annoyed I get to add another $100+/- peripheral to the 'box of junk'.
But you get what you can get while you can get it, and I'd rather fly on questionable equipment now than not fly at all.
vkbcontrollers.com
I'd question your decision to not purchase better. You can get a VKB NXT for $150. That's certainly comparable to an X-52, price wise, but double what a T16k can be had for on Amazon. I don't know your exact situation and any factors that are influencing your decision. I just know myself, and how annoyed I get to add another $100+/- peripheral to the 'box of junk'.
But you get what you can get while you can get it, and I'd rather fly on questionable equipment now than not fly at all.
Gladiator NXT ‘Space Combat Edition’ – VKBcontrollers.com
vkbcontrollers.com
