What joystick/controller do you use?

[Riverside]

Late Update on my experience with the T.16000M FCS that replaced the T.Flight HOTAS X series which died on me like flies :

- it as well dies with the exact same failure symptoms (Stick twist going erratic, ghost inputs, then non-recoverable decalibration issues) as the T. Flight HOTAS X

I can only assume Thrustmaster used the same cheap and unreliable faulty wiring for the stick twist in both HOTAS Systems.

So this far, no single Thrustmaster HOTAS has exceeded a lifetime of 4 months (and that's with alot of accepted degradation already) with me and the failures were basically all identical.
( surprisingly, it made no difference if they were used like raw eggs [Exploration] or heavy duty [intensive Combat] )

I'm seriously running out of ideas now and I definitely miss the durability of the old Joysticks of the 8 / 16-bit era
= I'm all open for suggestions at this point

I bought a new FCS (TWCS) throttle a few weeks ago to replace my old one because of the flickering, it had been a minor annoyance since new but after a couple of years & thousands of hours of use started to degrade. So I guess a small amount may be normal for these and how acceptable it is is the main difference between us.

However the new throttle started spiking worse than my old one after a couple of (admittedly fairly intense) weeks of use, and seeing as I hadn't opened it up to lubricate it yet I filled out the form on the Thrustmaster website and they replied two days later saying that if the problem could be reproduced in the windows control panel (joy.cpl) to return the product to the seller (Amazon in my case) for a refund/replacement.

So I guess it's a common problem. I really like the throttle though, I've switched back to my old one for now & will get another new one ASAP.

With these Thrustmaster products (FCS & Hotas-X) the design & quality of the hardware (plastics, ergonomics) are excellent, but as you say, seemingly let down by the quality of the pots. I'd happily pay 50% more for the same throttle with more robust electronics.

 

[Deleted member 38366]

Yeah. that's the weird part.
All those Users who successfully still use the exact same HOTAS type for years aren't lying - and I require 8+ Sticks during the same time. Hmpf.
(btw. I already has used up a few Logitech 3D Extreme Pro by the time I switched to Thrustmaster)

Oddly, I never - not once - had any issues with the Throttle parts, although it naturally saw alot of use as well.
Throttles were always fine with me, even on those dying ones that I literally used to to their last second of life due to still waiting for replacement.

Guess I need a new Callsign or something. "Iron Hand"

 

[60mm]

Virpil Mongoos T50 + Warbyrd
CH Fighterstick Pro
X52 Throttle
CH Pedals
TrackIR

Would be nice to go full Virpil at some point. Easily the best flight controllers.

 

[Para Handy]

...........
= I'm all open for suggestions at this point

CHPro Fighterstick - no twist but using the stick's pinky-button as a press-to-hold Yaw-to Roll switch gives you that fine yaw precision. Stick is built like a brick outhouse (but from nylon-reinforced resin) to the same standard as their commercial controllers and it is just the right size for desktop use (not too high like Warthog etc). So - pricey but worth it.

e.g:

Spoiler: Fighterstick binds

BTW my secondary PC has a Hotas-X that is over four years old with no issues but obviously less use than the CHPro stuff.

 

[bohemond]

VKB MCG Pro on a Gunfighter base
X52 throttle with added buttons
MFG Crosswinds
CH MFP
DIY button box based on Bodnar controller
Some kind of gamepad
Track ir
All mounted on an Obutto r3volution
Buttkicker ( not presently hooked up)

 

[Mimix]

I can only assume Thrustmaster used the same cheap and unreliable faulty wiring for the stick twist in both HOTAS Systems.

There is a known fix for the "stick twist problem" in the T-Flight Hotas X:

1. Remove the chromed head screws from the side of the stick grip.
2. Gently separate the two halves. Be careful because there are four separate plastic parts that fit together.
3. Once you separate the halves of the stick you'll see the Z-Rotation pot on the top of the white shaft that extends from the main pot in the base.
4. Dab a very small bit of WD-40 (or something similar) on top and let it penetrate, then reassemble the stick.

This works like a charm for most people who encounter this problem. I noticed it happening once; when I saw this method I kind of doubted it but decided to give it a try, and it worked. Haven't got this problem since. o7

 

[Deleted member 38366]

I'll give that a shot on the 16000M which' Twist entirely died now.

 

[VR Mr Teatime]

A couple of pics of my flight setup as it stands at the moment:

Right side =
Asus Tinkerboard based touchscreen with 100W amp - running Android with Kodi, Youtube, Twitch etc.
Thrustmaster Cougar modded on a Real Simulator force sensing base (FSSB v2)
Arcade track ball
Custom arm rest - 3D printed
Drinks chiller/warmer (Peltier Device)

Centre
Thrustmaster Elite Rudders - modded again with 3D printing
Sparco racing seat with Willans 5 point harness

Left Side
Custom button panel with illumination controls
Arcade button panel (lit)
Thrustmaster Cougar throttle - heavily customised (hall sensor, analogue stick in place of hat etc.) and wired to a Leo Bodnar controller board
Behringer 4 channel mixer for sound (under panels)
Bass amp panel mounted for the two seat bass shakers
Pimax 8K on a 3D printed stand

Various other 3D printed parts are throughout for speaker mounting, hand holds, wiring covers etc. etc.

 

[DNA-Decay]

 

[War Eagle]

There is a known fix for the "stick twist problem" in the T-Flight Hotas X:

1. Remove the chromed head screws from the side of the stick grip.
2. Gently separate the two halves. Be careful because there are four separate plastic parts that fit together.
3. Once you separate the halves of the stick you'll see the Z-Rotation pot on the top of the white shaft that extends from the main pot in the base.
4. Dab a very small bit of WD-40 (or something similar) on top and let it penetrate, then reassemble the stick.

This works like a charm for most people who encounter this problem. I noticed it happening once; when I saw this method I kind of doubted it but decided to give it a try, and it worked. Haven't got this problem since. o7

I had a problem with the x-flight holding on the x-axis Thrustmaster sent me a link to calibrate the unit: Try This if it still isn't working right- it never will.
I'll make this available on a thread of it's own for others- don't know why they keep it a secret?

 

[fu9ar]

I primarily use an XBox controller for now. I had a t16000m+TWCS screwed into the arms of an old recliner, and I have them stashed until I can rebuild the simpit. Even when I had the simpit, I preferred the Xbox controller for SRV piloting.

 

[Lyvan Kitaen]

I've got a Virpil throttle and a Saitek Cyborg Evo joystick. I'm still looking for a joystick that has the right combination of features to replace the Saitek.

 

[GJ51]

After 5 years my Warthog joystick is starting to give up. It is now not returning to center with conviction and has a lot of free movement at dead center. Tore it down and reassembled it but couldn't see anything that was causing the problem.

So I caved and ordered a Virpil VPCWarBRD base for it. With the Monstertech adapter plate to mount it to my desk it came to 275 Euros - just about $305 US.

Yikes - Amazon has a full set of Warthog Stick and Throttle for $370.

ED isn't a cheap hobby

 

[Bryan K]

Thrustmaster T.16000M with TWCS throttle here.

Tried Saitek for years, but the X52 Pro sneezed while installing drivers and they got corrupted and tried to kill my PC with endless BSODs so I dumped Saitek and never looked back.

I wanted a Warthog, but a joystick without yaw has no place on a 34th century spaceship. Rudder pedals are for rudders.

 

[PingHansen]

I use my old Logitech Extreme 3D Pro (some keys are beginning to be less trustworthy ) in combination with my trusty Belkin n52te (an amazingly versatile device). Hurrah for modifiers

As I've been away from the game for quite some time, there are quite a few new keybinds that I need to catch up with (especially the FSS-stuff ), so I'm considering adding either a Logitech G13, or, even better, cooking up something homegrown, based on a deconstructed cheap keyboard. Somewhere to group most of the less used functions, so I can cut down on the layering before it gets confusing. Perhaps with a big, shiny red key marked "Don't press" for dumping cargo

Edit: Managed to bind the FSS stuff in a logical way, mostly on the stick. No need for extra devices on that account. I'd still like to move those less used functions to something small, so I'm in the process of deconstructing a keyboard. The logic board itself is only about 25 mm by 75 mm. Next step is decoding the 13 x 13 matrix, plus figuring out what the unused key positions were meant for, before attaching some more robust connectors.

 

[Deleted member 110222]

An X52 that I've had since 2015. It's only now starting to develop some very minor drift issues. And it's not even due to work out parts. It's just a bit sticky.

If I do need to replace it, I will simply get the pro version. I love the X52.

Oh and VoiceAttack. Love VA.

 

[fu9ar]

I haven't done Voice Attack yet... I've been thinking about it for a while, but I think I will wait until I rig up a stupid VR simpit.

 

[Yorper]

HOTAS Warthog stick & throttle. With a set of Thrustmaster TPR pendular rudder pedals.

 

[[PS4] Filthymick420]

Thrustmaster t-flight (only one on PS4) and a PS4 controller.

Thrustmaster hotas seems really low quality. It feels like a toy. Also I only used it for a bout a week and now it pulls to the left. Its damn near unusable. Shame too because for $80 I could've got a couple hookers and instead

 

[NW3]

I use a Logitech x52 and Voice Attack (with the Obsidian Ant voice pack from HCS), since I play in VR (with a Pimax 8K). I've also installed MonsterTech chair mounts for my HOTAS and I have the quick-release option. My setup works well for me.

Joystick / HOTAS Chair Mount – MTSIM USA

Aluminum chair mount for joysticks and throttles. Compatible with Brunner, CH Products, Logitech, Saitek, Thrustmaster, VKB, Virpil and Winwing systems. Can be directly attached to the majority of gaming chairs. For a HOTAS setup (joystick and throttle) two mounts are needed. [sc...

monstertechusa.com