Last time when my computer had such problems reason was faulty power supply unit. Normal destop use worked, but when system really started drawing power (ie. running some heavy game) it froze up. Later on it went worse and started to have problems in booting system. New PSU and problems vanished.
Windows 10 crashes while playing Games
So far this seems like a CPU temperature or motherboard power delivery issue, but PSU can't be ruled out. I essentially had him underclock his CPU by 800MHz, which seems to have improved things.
Honestly, I wouldn't run this CPU at full speed in the board he's using anyway. The CPU is 95w on paper, but in practice a worst case load can push it to almost double that without any OCing, and this board's crappy 4+1 phase VRM is probably not up to task, even if the CPU cooling and PSU are solid.
If it's stable at the 3.2GHz base speed it's set to now, he should probably leave it alone until he's ready to completely rebuild the system.
Honestly, I wouldn't run this CPU at full speed in the board he's using anyway. The CPU is 95w on paper, but in practice a worst case load can push it to almost double that without any OCing, and this board's crappy 4+1 phase VRM is probably not up to task, even if the CPU cooling and PSU are solid.
If it's stable at the 3.2GHz base speed it's set to now, he should probably leave it alone until he's ready to completely rebuild the system.
I've tested now if Games work for a bit longer than a Hour and there wasn't a single Problem yet. I've tested it only with Jurassic World Evolution (highest Graphics Settings) so far but I think the other Games should also work without any Problems. So thanks a lot to everyone who answered and helped to solve this annoying Problem. I'm really thankful for it.
It looks like thisThe graphics card has it's own cooler that's independent of the one on the CPU.
Does the heatsink that's mounted to your CPU look like this?
That's the reference AMD FX cooler that came with most 95 and 120w rated parts.
Well, that's almost certainly your main problem. That cooler is significantly worse than the one that comes with the retail version of your CPU and isn't likely to cool it adequately at stock settings.
You'll probably be ok at the 3.2GHz it's set to now, but you may want to check temperatures and voltages in HWiNFO's sensor app and see if there is any room for optimization.
One small Update about the Situation with my Computer. It crashed again when I wanted to play but it was a few Minutes after I've started the PC and I think it will work again after I've waited a few Hours. I think I will most likely buy a new Motherboard and a Power Adapter. I really hope that's really the Parts that cause the Problems
MemTest64 is sometimes unstable, based on a quick Google. 
Listed it as useful tool still, as it is pretty quick
Getting better cooling for the processor anyway would be a good idea IMO.
Listed it as useful tool still, as it is pretty quick
Have you monitored the CPU temperatures?
Getting better cooling for the processor anyway would be a good idea IMO.
This isn't how they're supposed to work.
I would sort out temperatures first, then perhaps try a new power supply.
I would not put any more money into this particular platform (AM3+) as it's quite dated at this point. If you're going to swap boards, you are best off with a modern platform, including a new CPU and memory. It's getting quite hard to find decent AM3+ boards that haven't been heavily used.
I know but my old Computer had also a Problem where it froze and when I left it on for 2 Hours it worked normally. So I think it could work until I replace the Parts
Any Tips or Recommendations about a new Power Supply and Motherboard?
I like Asus motherboards, gigabyte and MSI are good too.
Corsair and coolermaster power supplies I can recommend.
if I were you I would try a better CPU Cooler first, then power supply.
If you do go for a new motherboard I would suggest something newer that uses Ryzen processors. Quite a variety to choose from and much cheaper than Intel
That cpu fan you got isn't cutting it, your trouble might be overheating and/or choking from high load on the power supply.
www.newegg.com is a wonderland lol
Corsair and coolermaster power supplies I can recommend.
if I were you I would try a better CPU Cooler first, then power supply.
If you do go for a new motherboard I would suggest something newer that uses Ryzen processors. Quite a variety to choose from and much cheaper than Intel
That cpu fan you got isn't cutting it, your trouble might be overheating and/or choking from high load on the power supply.
www.newegg.com is a wonderland lol
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This is indicative of a serious hardware issue like fractured solder joints or borderline capacitors.
PSU will depend on what's available in your area. Often the brand on the box is less telling than the OEM that actually built it, and you'll want to look at reviews for the specific model being sold.
I wouldn't consider a new motherboard until you've ruled out other possibilities, as it would best to get a whole new platform.
Figuring out your temperature situation should come first, as this may well be the problem and would be far and away the easiest issue to fix.
Not so much any more, as the last couple years of real competition has forced Intel and their board partners to start cutting prices.
I still think AM4 is probably the best bet, however.
My base cpu temp at rest is approximately 34c
Game blasting away at 60fps with lots of activity it can touch 49c
Game blasting away at 60fps with lots of activity it can touch 49c
Whatever PSU you buy I would not recommend "Silverstone" brand.
I've just tested the CPU Temperature. It was between 19 and 21°C. Then I've started a Game which caused it to crash at 40°C
This Power Supply Unit seems to be very good https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07VHFDVK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GYwYFbBSW2P5W?psc=1
But how do I find out if I should choose one with 750W or lower?
This Power Supply Unit seems to be very good https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07VHFDVK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_GYwYFbBSW2P5W?psc=1
But how do I find out if I should choose one with 750W or lower?
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Where are you getting these temperature readings?
19C isn't physically possible for a core reading, even at idle, unless ambients are sub-15C. Still, even with a significant offset, it's doubtful that CPU temperatures are responsible for that crash.
Barely a review, but it's the most I could find on that unit:
Cooler Master MWE 650 White V2 650W Report (Page 3 of 4) | APH Networks
Page 3 - Physical Look - Inside
aphnetworks.com
That's a Gospower-built budget unit (this is a good example of why you can't always go with branding...that's the first Gospower unit I've seen and makes at least five OEMs that Coolermaster has used in the last five years). Without someone attaching a real load tester and a scope to it will be impossible to know how it performs. That said, the components seem a bit on the cheap side.
It's probably serviceable, but I suspect there are better PSUs for the money. Also, quality is more important than the listed power output, within reason, but 650w should be plenty.
I skimmed the German Amazon site and the only PSU I recognized that I would recommend without reservation in a vaguely similar price range is the Seasonic FOCUS GX-550. It's a bit pricy for it's output, but I'd rather have a 550w Seasonic FOCUS GX than even the 750w version of that Coolermaster/Gospower series.
Thanks a lot again. I hope this will finally solve the Problem. According to Amazon they will even be able to deliver it on the same Day when the new DLC for Planet Zoo is released. I'm just a bit worried about the Length, so I'll need to measure the Inside of my Computer first
Edit: Damn. That's a few Centimeters too long. But it's only blocked by the Shelf Thing that holds the 2 old Hard Drives that aren't in use anyway. There's Space under the CD/DVD Drive so I could put the SSD in there. I just need to find out which kind of Screwdriver I need to get it out
Ok, it's also too high and I can't change anything there, so I will need a smaller PSU
The SGX one with 500W would fit. This one would also be ok, right?
I've used a Tool named Core Temp 1.16 for it
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What case and PSU are you currently using?
I don't know if this is the Name of the Case or the Name of the complete Computer, but it says 5016 shinobee g 617641 on the Back of the Case. (I can't find it online currently, so maybe it doesn't get produced anymore)
That's the Power Supply Unit that's currently inside my Computer https://www.galaxus.de/de/s1/produc...GHC4TXUXg7K-yjJsKLUaAiK0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds