Building a new PC for Elite: Dangerous Odyssey (hardware discussion)

I'm using the newer track ir (just clips on top of the monitor, nothing on you or your headset) and it works great for planetary exploration, the only time it gets off a little bit is if I snap right and left etc too fast, but normal to fast rotation looking around it does great. p.s. took days to "tune" it
track IR.jpg
 
Oh I'm so pleased that Alec did all that donkey work and that he has pressed the button (accidentally). And now I would like a turn :)

I'm seeking opinions on a possible upgrade to improve my PC performance... just for Elite Odyssey (I fly exclusively in VR utilising a Valve Index). I have an EVGA GeForce RTX 3080Ti FTW3 Ultra 12Gb GDDR6x and i9-9900K CPU @ 3.60GHz overclocked slightly using pre-sets. I would dearly like to improve the VR experience, perhaps run at higher settings... and like Alec... I have limited funds and will depend on selling the 3080Ti. So my question is... anyone using similar but with a RTX 4080 super?... or should I stick with what I have? (really want a less stuttery visual though).
 
Happy for this thread to cover other builds like @captpopup's request above, but in the meantime ... just heard from PCSpecialist that my PC has been shipped! :D

I must say that once again (and it's been nearly 10 years so a lot can change in a company in that time) I've been super impressed with them. I've received regular updates from them on the progress of the build. Once they had all the parts (the case was out of stock for a short while) they sent me a 360 view of my PC so I could take a look at it while it went into their testing phase:

ZzCQLkX.png


From that I queried (because the interior was slightly dark) that I couldn't see if the additional case fans I'd requested were in there. A really clear and helpful chap rang me up to apologise for the lighting of the 360 view, reassure me they were fitted and ask if I had any other queries. And now it's on its way, just a week after placing the order (which seems pretty good to me considering the stock shortage on the case).
 
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Oh I'm so pleased that Alec did all that donkey work and that he has pressed the button (accidentally). And now I would like a turn :)

I'm seeking opinions on a possible upgrade to improve my PC performance... just for Elite Odyssey (I fly exclusively in VR utilising a Valve Index). I have an EVGA GeForce RTX 3080Ti FTW3 Ultra 12Gb GDDR6x and i9-9900K CPU @ 3.60GHz overclocked slightly using pre-sets. I would dearly like to improve the VR experience, perhaps run at higher settings... and like Alec... I have limited funds and will depend on selling the 3080Ti. So my question is... anyone using similar but with a RTX 4080 super?... or should I stick with what I have? (really want a less stuttery visual though).
When I compared Alec's 4070Ti to my 3090 and discovered it was faster, I was also tempted to upgrade. :D But I'll hold out for the next generation. I'm not convinced that even a 4090 will resolve the VR issues (and reports I've had from two people that have 4090s confirm that, though of course that's a very small sample set!).
 
Happy for this thread to cover other builds like @captpopup's request above, but in the meantime ... just heard from PCSpecialist that my PC has been shipped! :D

I must say that once again (and it's been nearly 10 years so a lot can change in a company in that time) I've been super impressed with them. I've received regular updates from them on the progress of the build. Once they had all the parts (the case was out of stock for a short while) they sent me a 360 view of my PC so I could take a look at it while it went into their testing phase:

ZzCQLkX.png


From that I queried (because the interior was slightly dark) that I couldn't see if the additional case fans I'd requested were in there. A really clear and helpful chap rang me up to apologise for the lighting of the 360 view, reassure me they were fitted and ask if I had any other queries. And now it's on its way, just a week after placing the order (which seems pretty good to me considering the stock shortage on the case).

That is pretty.
 
Hey all ... I'm kinda up and running now so thought I'd do a very quick update.

The good news is that I can crank every single Odyssey graphics detail to Ultra/max, push all the sliders all the way to the right, run at 1.5x oversampling to reduce aliasing effects and still run the game at 144 fps pretty much all the time in space, and stay above 100 fps on the ground and at settlements, with the PC seemingly hardly breaking a sweat. And the case looks gorgeous!

The bad news I guess is that it has taken an absolute age to get the dozens and dozens of app's I had on the old PC (everything from mail readers, print drivers and favourite Windows utilities to joystick/head tracking software and numerous 3rd party apps like voice attack, ED CoPilot, Elite Observatory, etc, etc - not forgetting the basic move from Windows 10 to Windows 11) up and running the way I like and with all my old config's in place. Still a few things left but nearly there now I guess. I personally find this side of an upgrade incredibly stressful and I can't deny it has taken the edge off my enjoyment of this whole experience.

I do have some slight regrets about the build. The two things I compromised on as the price crept up were storage and USB slots and I wish I'd just spent the extra on both up front. I've used up all the standard USB slots on the rear and I will definitely be adding more storage at some point in the near future. Oh well. I suppose that was always kinda the plan.

And now to the most significant problem (in case anyone has any brilliant suggestions).

There's definitely something wrong in the area of the USB devices. The joystick (just a Thrustmaster Hotas 4) frequently just stops working. Originally it was so bad (and not just the joystick but also the Track IR device) that I followed some online advice about manually uninstalling all the USB 3.0 drivers in order to get Windows to reinstall the latest drivers (a process which stupidly left me with no working keyboard or mouse for a while and a complete panic that I'd killed my new PC before I'd even started). Luckily I did get the drivers back again. It's still not right tho. I had to reboot twice this morning when my joystick just stopped working mid session. The single most reproducible symptom of this is that if I start the Windows "Setup USB game controllers" dialog, the window with the list of controllers opens but is then immediately unresponsive and typically remains that way for several minutes after which my joystick then works. I also have a problem with my HP printer (again USB connected) which, although it prints, pops up a dialog as it's doing so saying it can't communicate with the printer. The PC also feels quite slow to boot and I can't help wondering if it's the same issue ... some kind of timeout while it tries to talk to unresponsive USB devices during startup? At the weekend I'm going to transfer a 4xUSB3.0 PCIe card from my old PC - a) to give me some leg room re: spare slots and b) to spread my USB load across more controllers (that's a thing right?) in the hope of fixing this situation. It will be an old card tho. Does that matter? Are there good and bad PCIe USB cards, can I get something more modern that's likely to be more reliable? Are there USB diagnostics I can run? I guess I'll be talking to PC Specialist about all this too.

Anyway, I thought I'd report back as PC upgrades are an interesting topic and one which doesn't end when you make your purchase.
 
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You are out of USB power is most likely issue. The Mobo only has so much, however many devices are attached.

Just to make it less painful, I have been having usb issues too and am also sure it is power related.
 
The bad news I guess is that it has taken an absolute age to get the dozens and dozens of app's I had on the old PC
see if what you need is on
 
see if what you need is on
Interesting. Someone else recommended this to me (which I think uses Choclatey).


In the end I decided to do it all one app at a time and manually 'cos I felt like I wanted to stay in control and know what was happening but I probably regret that now and should have just let a package manager do all the heavy lifting.

I may still run something like that just to see what I've missed.
 
Hi :)
Hmm, I sometimes get my usb connection from my Logitech G19 keyboard not being recognised on the odd occasion, I just unplug it from the back of the computer then plug it back in which always solves it. Whether this is a fault with the usb plug or a Windows 11 glitch I'm not sure. :unsure:
(I have an Asus Rog Strix Z690-A DDR4 mobo btw. with quite a few USB outlets on the rear IO so....🤷‍♂️).
I suspect this might be a software issue?, but I'll leave those answers to this here Forums 'Experts' ;)....(you know who you are! :D),
You are out of USB power is most likely issue. The Mobo only has so much, however many devices are attached.

Just to make it less painful, I have been having usb issues too and am also sure it is power related.
Ok, I might stand corrected! :)
Hey all ... I'm kinda up and running now so thought I'd do a very quick update.

Anyway, I thought I'd report back as PC upgrades are an interesting topic and one which doesn't end when you make your purchase.
No, it don't :D.....and for novices like me I've got to admit it's stressful also! :LOL:

Jack :)
 
There's definitely something wrong in the area of the USB devices.
Take a look in Device manager (either Windows+X or Right click Start, then Computer management, then as below) do you see any warnings like this
1714044036904.png


Does that matter? Are there good and bad PCIe USB cards,
If I remember correctly (someone please correct me) there were concerns with which PCI lanes it ends up using, which is a combination of Chipset, motherboard, which PCI slot you are in, and the USB card you are using.

I used to have this problem, but not for several rebuilds now, possibly because I am just using a USB hub for all my low bandwidth periperals (it's USB 2.0 so everthing downgrades) and has no issues.
(pulls cables up from down the back...)
1714044836633.png
 
A powered HUB does seem a popular option (although to me it feels like that would compound the problem by running 4 ports off of a single internal port?).

I guess I'll try my old 4xUSB PCIe card to spread the load and if that doesn't solve it then maybe invest in something else. Inatech cards are (or were) popular ..


.. but this one (or its more expensive quad bus counterpart) was recommended (years ago now) by the Virtual Reality Oasis guy who was looking for a reliable controller for use with VR devices ..

 
In your bios/uefi you may find an option for USB 3 to be handled by Windows or the bios; you could try toggling that. However I agree that it sounds like USB power is at it's limit, especially since you are using all of them :) Thrustmaster joysticks are known to use more power than they should.
 
A powered HUB does seem a popular option (although to me it feels like that would compound the problem by running 4 ports off of a single internal port?).
Like all things IT.... it depends.

USB (universal serial bus) was developed to replace the old printer parallel cables and require fewer wires to do this. That means that the data gets split into its bits in serial (one after the other), queued up, sent, then reconstituted at the other end. Modern USB gen 2/3etc build on that introducing more than just one lane, but still less than the fat old cables of ye olde 1980s.

During that communication there are quiet times when the devices weren't talking, so the bus part refers to the idea of things sharing the same wires by also queuing up their data until it can be sent, but because each device has a unique id you know where it came from/should go to at the other end.

If you have a device like a USB stick transferring MBs of data or a VR headset with millions of pixels 90 times a second, that bus is almost full. You wouldn't want them both at the same time. Alternatively if you only plug in a joystick or an xbox controller, you only send a couple of values as it moves. You still want those values to be processed quickly but the queues are tiny.

So I think my hub is webcam (for WFH), xbox controller and hotas throttle (looks like hotas stick is direct to MB) and which I never use at the same time :)
 
although to me it feels like that would compound the problem by running 4 ports off of a single internal port?

A lot of USB problems are power delivery related. The bandwidth needs of USB input devices are negligible and only users of extremely high polling rate mice are ever likely to encounter non-power related issues on otherwise functional ports/hubs.

USB spec is +5v and there is some margin, but a lot of devices do not like major deviations. Problem here is that ATX PSU spec is also +5v and there is a lot of board between most ATX power connectors and the USB ports, meaning long traces and a lot of droop. Most front panel USB ports aren't getting more than 4.8v. Most unpowered external hubs will barely meet minimum spec for low-speed devices. A powered hub with a decent AC adapter will usually end up delivering 5.0-5.2v to the ports, which is more than enough even when loaded with input devices.

That's not to say there cannot be other issues with USB controllers, hub ICs, or drivers, but most of the problems adding a powered hub will fix are power issues, which are quite common.
 
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