Building a new PC for Elite: Dangerous Odyssey (hardware discussion)

2. Mobile CPU type with better power management (it is easier to get new gen CPU with lower wattage and TDP).
If you want a mobile class CPU you can get them and drop straight into normal MB, e.g.
I have no personal experience, but they seem somewhat popular with the SFF crowd e.g. https://smallformfactor.net/forum/threads/info-on-intel-t-cpus-please.10422/
 
Those 35W are misleading and most of the time that's the minimum value while maximum can easily go up to 65W or more.
I'm using Intel i3-10100T and I'm quite satisfied with it. I also know there is more than transistor size that matters (CPU structure optimization for example) but main reason to replace CPU for me is production process, transistor count and core base clock (as simple as that), since this is where most of TDP and power consumption comes from. Sadly Intel removed transistor size info from CPU specs page- I have to dig out that info somewhere else.
 
Hi All :)

Just a few questions, and I'll try and keep it as brief as possible. 🙄...:D

Okay, I went ahead and bought a Sapphire RX 7700 XT Nitro Graphics card to replace my GeForce 1060 3GB (at long last).
Before I fitted the new card I uninstalled the old GeForce drivers and software using the DDU program software in safe mode. Installed the new GPU, installed the latest (not beta) AMD Radeon Adrenaline drivers and software etc.
I'd also bought a new Ben Q Mobius 27" 2560 x 1440 165Hz monitor to go with it (Model EX2710Q). I'd only been using a 1920 x 1080p monitor before so the visuals are quite noticeable. :cool:
Anyhow, Using the Display ports I booted up the computer and everything seems okay. The Adrenaline software is in the default mode, the only thing I've altered there is the refresh rate, which I've set to 165Hz.
I ran the computer for several hours yesterday and noted the GPU temperatures, fan speed etc whilst playing Odyssey. Temperature of the GPU was / is around the 57c mark, but the ambient room temperature here is quite warm at the moment. Note...but I'm also only out exploring at the moment, so I would expect that to go up in more testing scenarios, I'd imagine.
So the main Questions are...What settings (if any) should I alter in the Adrenaline program?...I'm satisfied with the picture quality, so should I just leave it alone for now?
Also, are there any settings in the Odyssey Graphical settings (other than Display resolution and refresh rate which obviously I've changed to 2560 x 1440 x 165Hz) that would give me the optimal picture quality / framerate / anything else that I'm not familiar with etc! :D

I obviously could tinker with some of the settings in both programs, but I thought I'd ask here first. ;)
Addendum....I've still got MSI's Afterburner installed at the moment, should I uninstall it now that I'm monitoring the GPU in Adrenaline?...just a thought.
Jack :)
 
Hi All :)
  1. 57°c is fine for a GPU. I don't know about AMD GPUs, but Nvidia GPUs start throttling at around 83°c.
  2. You might want to try turning off FSR (if it is on) - you have enough VRAM to handle the game at ultra settings.
  3. Try Morbad's shadow tweaks. They're a significant improvement over the defaults.
  4. Install EDHM-UI. Orange is objectionable.
  5. Have fun, CMDR!
:D.. I'm in the same boat as Northpin, I'm a Heretic! :D

There's a program for some of the recent Graphics cards called 'Trixx' so my Nitro comes under that banner. Just wondering if anybody with a recent Sapphire Radeon card uses it in preference to the Adrenaline hardware monitoring program?
If so what do you think of it generally?

Jack :)
 
I was going to start a new thread but as I have been intermittently following this one since it began I will just add my question here.

I have self built my last three PC's and this time I just want to upgrade the MB, CPU, PSU and RAM to support my GTX1080GPU. I have already chosen the parts and am in the process of gathering together the relevant info to reinstall my copy of Windows10 Home Edition plus my various programs especially my bought direct from Frontier copy of EDH & EDO install etc etc to my existing Samsung 1TB EVO 970 Plus m2 NVME. Is there a downloadable walkthrough of the steps needed to reinstall all this properly?.
 
I'm confused - if you've built your own PC before then I would have thought you already know how to put a PC (back) together.

If you're talking about software, you start with the OS and go from there. If your PC is connected to the internet when you install, Windows Update should download all the necessary drivers in the background.

Can you clarify what you're asking?
 
Hi :)
Just thought to post this link as I personally found this very useful...:)
www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=how+do+yo+check+if+your+new+computer+build+works+before+installing+the+os&mid=29B74E655D18CD66A0D729B74E655D18CD66A0D7&FORM=VIRE

And to download your games..

Login.
Go to 'my downloadable products'
Click download and follow instructions (I think, it's been a while since I last installed the games :rolleyes:...:D)

Hope this helps :)

Edit...Oh..Once you've downloaded your legal copy of Windows 10 Home Edition, and got it all activated and set up etc. AND.. all your hardware conforms to specs for Windows 11 btw, you'll at some point later on be 'invited' by Microsoft to download an update to Windows 11. You can check that your pc conforms to the hardware requirements by downloading the PC Health Check from the Microsoft web site.

If I've made any mistakes in the information above feel free anybody to correct any errors! :D


Jack :)
 
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installed the latest (not beta) AMD Radeon Adrenaline drivers

The latest beta features AFMF2 which is a pretty nice upgrade over the original, but I haven't tested it in Odyssey yet.


So the main Questions are...What settings (if any) should I alter in the Adrenaline program?...I'm satisfied with the picture quality, so should I just leave it alone for now?

Aside from making sure the display is using VRR/FreeSync and the correct color space, the only thing I'd change in Adrenalin is the texture filtering quality to highest.

You can mess with overclocking/undervolting at some point, but the gains are fairly modest on RDNA3. You do have temperature headroom to increase the power limit, if the card allows that.

Also, are there any settings in the Odyssey Graphical settings (other than Display resolution and refresh rate which obviously I've changed to 2560 x 1440 x 165Hz) that would give me the optimal picture quality / framerate / anything else that I'm not familiar with etc! :D

Custom shadow tables and some GraphicsConfigurationOverride.xml tweaks can improve visuals without too much of a performance hit.

Something like this:
XML:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<GraphicsConfig>
    <HBAO>
        <High>
            <HBAO_RadiusInMeters>8.4</HBAO_RadiusInMeters>
            <HBAO_NearRadiusInMeters>2.1</HBAO_NearRadiusInMeters>
            <HBAO_NearDistance>160.0</HBAO_NearDistance>
            <HBAO_PowExponent>2.5</HBAO_PowExponent>
            <HBAO_Bias>0.35</HBAO_Bias>
            <HBAO_BlurSharpness>0.75</HBAO_BlurSharpness>
            <HBAO2_PowExponent>2.5</HBAO2_PowExponent>
            <HBAO2_Bias>0.15</HBAO2_Bias>
            <HBAO2_BlurSharpness>4.0</HBAO2_BlurSharpness>
            <ResolutionScale>1.0</ResolutionScale>
        </High>
    </HBAO>
    <SpotShadows_Ultra>
        <NumCacheShadows>3</NumCacheShadows>
        <NumSpotShadows>8</NumSpotShadows>
        <CacheShadowAtlasSize>8192</CacheShadowAtlasSize>
        <CacheShadowSize>8192</CacheShadowSize>
    </SpotShadows_Ultra>
    <Planets>
        <Ultra>
            <TextureSize>8192</TextureSize>
            <WorkPerFrame>512</WorkPerFrame>
        </Ultra>
    </Planets>
    <GalaxyBackground>
        <High>
            <TextureSize>4096</TextureSize>
        </High>
    </GalaxyBackground>
    <Bloom>
        <Ultra>
            <GlareScale>0.025</GlareScale>
            <FilterRadius>1.0</FilterRadius>
            <FilterRadiusWide>3.0</FilterRadiusWide>
        </Ultra>
    </Bloom>
    <Envmap>
        <High>
            <TextureSize>2048</TextureSize>
            <NumMips>12</NumMips>
        </High>
    </Envmap>
    <GalaxyMap>
        <High>
            <HighResNebulasCount>4</HighResNebulasCount>
            <LowResNebulaDimensions>256</LowResNebulaDimensions>
            <HighResNebulaDimensions>1024</HighResNebulaDimensions>
            <LowResSamplesCount>64</LowResSamplesCount>
            <HighResSamplesCount>112</HighResSamplesCount>
            <MilkyWayInstancesCount>64000</MilkyWayInstancesCount>
            <MilkywayInstancesBrightness>1.0</MilkywayInstancesBrightness>
            <MilkywayInstancesSize>0.25</MilkywayInstancesSize>
            <StarInstanceCount>16000</StarInstanceCount>
        </High>
    </GalaxyMap>
    <Debris>
        <High>
            <DebrisLimit>2000</DebrisLimit>
        </High>
    </Debris>
    <Volumetrics>
        <Ultra>
            <StepsPerPixel>16</StepsPerPixel>
            <DownscalingFactor>2</DownscalingFactor>
            <BlurSamples>3</BlurSamples>
            <StepMultiplier>4.0</StepMultiplier>
        </Ultra>
    </Volumetrics>
</GraphicsConfig>

That goes in "%LocalAppData%\Frontier Developments\Elite Dangerous\Options\Graphics". I've also attached it below; remove the .txt part of the extension to use it.

Addendum....I've still got MSI's Afterburner installed at the moment, should I uninstall it now that I'm monitoring the GPU in Adrenaline?...just a thought.

You can leave it installed, but disable it from starting with windows or automatically loading any profiles. It doesn't really do much the Adrenalin app doesn't for AMD cards.

There's a program for some of the recent Graphics cards called 'Trixx' so my Nitro comes under that banner. Just wondering if anybody with a recent Sapphire Radeon card uses it in preference to the Adrenaline hardware monitoring program?
If so what do you think of it generally?

Been a while since I've used Trixx, but I'm highly doubtful it does anything the driver control panel doesn't, especially given how locked down RDNA3 is.
 

Attachments

  • GraphicsConfigurationOverride.xml.txt
    2.1 KB · Views: 89
I have already chosen the parts and am in the process of gathering together the relevant info to reinstall my copy of Windows10 Home Edition plus my various programs especially my bought direct from Frontier copy of EDH & EDO install etc etc to my existing Samsung 1TB EVO 970 Plus m2 NVME. Is there a downloadable walkthrough of the steps needed to reinstall all this properly?.

I'm sure a lot of someones have walkthroughs/check lists.

My rough procedure would be:
  • Make sure the hardware is stable enough to even install Windows without corrupting anything (some Memtest86 should be good enough for a stock system, for this purpose).
  • Back up everything you think you'll need (files, browser data, licenses, browser data, etc).
  • Download all drivers, any necessary utilities, and a web browser installer, saving them to someplace that won't be wiped (preferably a second flash drive) during the reinstall process).
  • Make sure you have a key for your Windows license; a motherboard swap will invalidate any digital license, which Microsoft may or may not be inclined to rearm.
  • Make some new/clean Windows install media. I prefer downloading the .iso file and creating a bootable flash drive with Rufus portable. Optionally, customize it as needed, but this can get rather complex, so I won't go into it.
  • Boot to that flash drive and instead of going to "install Windows" get to a command prompt, open diskpart, select your main OS drive, and use the "clean" command on it. This will force a full TRIM of the entire drive, erasing everything.
  • Reboot and install Windows, preferably with the network disconnected (selecting the "I don't have internet" option) and opting out of all privacy violating nonsense.
  • Once you're inside Windows, run donotspy11 before doing anything else. It has a lot of options, some of which can break functionality, so take your time considering them.
  • Install the newest MSVC++ redistributables, .Net 6 & 8, and DirectX.
  • Install drivers (obtained from lowest-level manufacturer...e.g. you have an ASUS B550 board, you go to AMD, not ASUS; you have an EVGA GTX 1080, you go to NVIDIA, not EVGA, etc), in this order: chipset, storage, audio, graphics, then network. Order isn't hugely critical, but chipset should always come first, and if you haven't disabled Windows' automatic driver updates (you should), you want network last (though you can just leave the network cable unplugged or the wifi unconnected).
  • Run Windows update, get everything that's not a driver, then update the Microsoft Store.
  • Install the rest of your apps, make sure they work, and copy your backups over.

Edit: If this is a recent AMD or Intel platform, you'll also want to update the new board's firmware as soon as possible.
 
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I'm confused - if you've built your own PC before then I would have thought you already know how to put a PC (back) together.

If you're talking about software, you start with the OS and go from there. If your PC is connected to the internet when you install, Windows Update should download all the necessary drivers in the background.

Can you clarify what you're asking?
My present PC was built around 7/8yrs ago and I upgraded the GPU from the 1050Ti to the GTX1080 around 18mths ago. I am now 75 and my memory is not bad but certainly not as good anymore. I can certainly remember how to put all the parts together into the box, plug in all the cables, and set the BIOS etc. but it is the reinstalling Windows10 and my other programs including EDH/EDO where I would prefer to have a sort of walkthrough procedure for want of a better name written down as until I get Windows10 installed and up to date I won't have a PC to ask for online help. I would likely muddle through it okay just need a back up plan.
 
I'm sure a lot of someones have walkthroughs/check lists.

My rough procedure would be:
  • Make sure the hardware is stable enough to even install Windows without corrupting anything (some Memtest86 should be good enough for a stock system, for this purpose).
  • Back up everything you think you'll need (files, browser data, licenses, browser data, etc).
  • Download all drivers, any necessary utilities, and a web browser installer, saving them to someplace that won't be wiped (preferably a second flash drive) during the reinstall process).
  • Make sure you have a key for your Windows license; a motherboard swap will invalidate any digital license, which Microsoft may or may not be inclined to rearm.
  • Make some new/clean Windows install media. I prefer downloading the .iso file and creating a bootable flash drive with Rufus portable. Optionally, customize it as needed, but this can get rather complex, so I won't go into it.
  • Boot to that flash drive and instead of going to "install Windows" get to a command prompt, open diskpart, select your main OS drive, and use the "clean" command on it. This will force a full TRIM of the entire drive, erasing everything.
  • Reboot and install Windows, preferably with the network disconnected (selecting the "I don't have internet" option) and opting out of all privacy violating nonsense.
  • Once you're inside Windows, run donotspy11 before doing anything else. It has a lot of options, some of which can break functionality, so take your time considering them.
  • Install the newest MSVC++ redistributables, .Net 6 & 8, and DirectX.
  • Install drivers (obtained from lowest-level manufacturer...e.g. you have an ASUS B550 board, you go to AMD, not ASUS; you have an EVGA GTX 1080, you go to NVIDIA, not EVGA, etc), in this order: chipset, storage, audio, graphics, then network. Order isn't hugely critical, but chipset should always come first, and if you haven't disabled Windows' automatic driver updates (you should), you want network last (though you can just leave the network cable unplugged or the wifi unconnected).
  • Run Windows update, get everything that's not a driver, then update the Microsoft Store.
  • Install the rest of your apps, make sure they work, and copy your backups over.

Edit: If this is a recent AMD or Intel platform, you'll also want to update the new board's firmware as soon as possible.

Thanks for the informative reply. Yes, I found out that the MB below may need the BIOS updated prior to installing the CPU but it has a specific flashing button for doing this and I have already visited the MSI site, downloaded and put the file onto a Fat32 MBR usb stick ready.​

MSI B550 GAMING GEN3 ATX AM4 Motherboard and the​

AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor and the​

 
Hi :)

My present PC was built around 7/8yrs ago and I upgraded the GPU from the 1050Ti to the GTX1080 around 18mths ago. I am now 75 and my memory is not bad but certainly not as good anymore. I can certainly remember how to put all the parts together into the box, plug in all the cables, and set the BIOS etc. but it is the reinstalling Windows10 and my other programs including EDH/EDO where I would prefer to have a sort of walkthrough procedure for want of a better name written down as until I get Windows10 installed and up to date I won't have a PC to ask for online help. I would likely muddle through it okay just need a back up plan.

I'm catching you up! :D ...I'm 73 and I sympathise with your memory problem, it changes as you get older and a certain lack of confidence can creep in.
I'm fortunate in that I have two computers at the moment and two monitors. I ran the Jayzetwocents video on one computer and installed Windows 10 on the re-build so it was fairly straightforward combining the two for the reinstall process. I've installed Win 10 on previous builds but it was generally a suck it and see operation. The installation has some irritating features, as you may well know, the main one is that Microsoft tries to get you to create an account, and other unwanted features. I have an account at Microsoft but very rarely use it.
I try to keep my computers free of bloatware and stuff, just a personal thing. My most recent build was based around an AMD motherboard and Ryzen Cpu for my Son. That went without a hitch, mainly due to the help I received from people in this thread (Cheers folks I can't thank you all enough;)). I'm now slowly getting stuff ready for another AMD based computer for myself, as funds allow.
Some of the helpful information in this topic I must admit at first glance goes completely over my head on the software side, but generally I eventually get to understand it! :D
Computer technology is a fast based subject, Hardware and software is changing all the time and if you are mainly an 'amateur' in the sense of a hobby it's easy to get out of touch with the new technology etc.
It's a great Forum here, so keep in touch.:D

Anyhow, I hope your build goes successfully (y)

Jack :)
 
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Hi All :)

I'd like some PC Audio Advice please! :D

I have a Creative Labs Inspire 7.1 Surround sound speaker System which although very old still works okay, which I'm using on my present pc.
The speakerst have 4 x 3.5mm outlet jacks which plug in to my Rog Strix motherboards audio sockets, (1 Front spk, 2 front side spk's, 2 rear side spk's, 2 rear back spk's and subwoofer.) Motherboard - https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z690-a-gaming-wifi-d4-model/
I'm building another computer (AMD) using this motherboard, https://rog.asus.com/uk/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b650e-f-gaming-wifi-model

The main question is,what or how can I use the same speakers (I presume it's some form of switch box) to switch easily between the two computers?
Both motherboards have the more or less identical audio connections at the rear of the motherboard.
I've had a search for a switch box but quite frankly I'm not sure which type I'm looking for. :unsure:
Any advice or links to the appropriate switch box?... would be most welcome, I'm not looking for anything wildly expensive, just something that will do the job. (something that's under £40 if possible). :)

Jack :)
 
Hi All :)

I'd like some PC Audio Advice please! :D

I have a Creative Labs Inspire 7.1 Surround sound speaker System which although very old still works okay, which I'm using on my present pc.
The speakerst have 4 x 3.5mm outlet jacks which plug in to my Rog Strix motherboards audio sockets, (1 Front spk, 2 front side spk's, 2 rear side spk's, 2 rear back spk's and subwoofer.) Motherboard - https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z690-a-gaming-wifi-d4-model/
I'm building another computer (AMD) using this motherboard, https://rog.asus.com/uk/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-b650e-f-gaming-wifi-model

The main question is,what or how can I use the same speakers (I presume it's some form of switch box) to switch easily between the two computers?
Both motherboards have the more or less identical audio connections at the rear of the motherboard.
I've had a search for a switch box but quite frankly I'm not sure which type I'm looking for. :unsure:
Any advice or links to the appropriate switch box?... would be most welcome, I'm not looking for anything wildly expensive, just something that will do the job. (something that's under £40 if possible). :)

Jack :)
That's a pretty niche use case. Most people wanting to do something like this would be dropping a good chunk of cash on an AV receiver/amp and 7.1 passive setup, rather than independently-powered entry-level equipment.

It's actually difficult to find kit expressly made for your purpose, despite it being a pretty simple concept. You can bodge it pretty easily using 4 stereo switches, but it will be just that - a bodge - and you will have to switch all four over to get sound from the correct device.
 
Hi :)

That's a pretty niche use case. Most people wanting to do something like this would be dropping a good chunk of cash on an AV receiver/amp and 7.1 passive setup, rather than independently-powered entry-level equipment.

It's actually difficult to find kit expressly made for your purpose, despite it being a pretty simple concept. You can bodge it pretty easily using 4 stereo switches, but it will be just that - a bodge - and you will have to switch all four over to get sound from the correct device.

Yep, though rather than ditch the Creative set up as I said, it's working okay and to buy something similar these days is quite expensive even for entry level 7.1 speaker set ups. (I think we're looking at somewhere around £300 for just a 5.1 surround sound pc speaker system
I'm not really an audio guru, in the sense that I'm not really 'into' perfection as regards sound quality especially as my hearing is not what it used to be, (recently had a hearing test and it turns out that at the higher scale my hearing isn't that good, past working at power stations has contributed to that here methinks 😬).
That said, hearing the various sounds through that set up when playing Odyssey is still pretty good I think. :cool:

🤔....The inbuilt speakers on my BenQ monitor are supposed to be reasonably good for monitor speakers according to reviews of that monitor, I haven't tried them out, so I might have some options there...I'll have to see.
Yeah, so basically I'm looking (I think) at a box / switch that has four inputs and 8 outputs?....with just a switch that selects four out of the eight outputs, if that makes sense. 🤓
Flicking a switch is no problem, though come to think of it, do I need a switch....:unsure: (if I'm only using one computer at a time).

Anyway, thanks for the feed back, appreciated. (y)

Jack :)
 
You can buy a mixer and connect two computers to use the same spearers. But then there is no 7.1 surround anymore.

It is not possible without switching cables
You could use extension cords so you can easily swap from pc to pc at the front of your desk. This involves using several cables and connection which will all be prone to interference
 
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