DIY Head Tracker For A Tenner
- Thread starter Dead Fred
- Start date
here:
corrected
- the closest pins on 2 sides of the switch are the connections for 'push to make'
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here:
I don't think that's right. Check the tracks on the board here:
I think I'd solder the leads for a second switch directly to pins 10 and GND on the pro micro board. Much easier access.
*edit* Nice one. That's better.
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Objective is to short out pin 10 and ground. Pin 10 goes to 1 in the diagram below, and 2 + 4 are both wired to ground. This means you want to solder your switch to either 1 + 2, or 1 + 4 (or pin 10 and gnd, if you want to jump straight off the promicro)
I have corrected the image in my original post - apologies
Image perspective got the better of me!
Amos.. Megram from your diagram - pins 1 & 2 should do the job
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Yep. Make sure you choose a switch that is 'push to make', not 'push to break'. Push to make is the the more common, so you should be fine. Orientation shouldn't matter
While waiting for more availability of the printed circuit board, here is a version using a mini breadboard. One side of the Arduino has just a few header pins soldered in so that it can fit on such a small breadboard.
Here are my joystick settings.
and
Using a mini breadboard... less soldering and easier to replace parts. On the side of the Arduino facing the MPU-6050, header pins on 2&3 and 7&8 only. Using pre formed jumper cables for the connections, except 2&3 which use the breadboard.
In this layout, the ground moves through the button to the MPU-6050. This means that if the button is not placed properly or is a 2 wire button instead of 4 that you would not have ground to the MPU. In this case run another wire to connect the MPU ground to the Arduino ground on the other side of the breadboard. Yes, the Arduino does have 2 grounds on the side of the MPU but I did not connect those header pins to avoid any crossed signals on the MPU.
Here are my joystick settings.
and
Using a mini breadboard... less soldering and easier to replace parts. On the side of the Arduino facing the MPU-6050, header pins on 2&3 and 7&8 only. Using pre formed jumper cables for the connections, except 2&3 which use the breadboard.
In this layout, the ground moves through the button to the MPU-6050. This means that if the button is not placed properly or is a 2 wire button instead of 4 that you would not have ground to the MPU. In this case run another wire to connect the MPU ground to the Arduino ground on the other side of the breadboard. Yes, the Arduino does have 2 grounds on the side of the MPU but I did not connect those header pins to avoid any crossed signals on the MPU.
I like it.
One option that exists (though doesn't seem necessary in practice) is that you can short rst and gnd to perform a full 'reboot' of the board. Haven't found a use for it yet, but worth knowing
That's a pretty neat finish to the set up you done there. Good idea with the cable.
Maybe eventually the finished product would ship similar to this if you guys find some tiny light weight box enclosure or something else, and do a cable like this. Further down the road like.
Maybe eventually the finished product would ship similar to this if you guys find some tiny light weight box enclosure or something else, and do a cable like this. Further down the road like.
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With my 2x trackers now looking pretty damned stable, I figured it was time to look at getting the overall package sorted: something for them to sit in, and a way of minimising damage to the usb mount (this is inherently bit of a weak link).
For them to sit in, I have ordered a couple of these. Nice and cheap, and dimensions are near perfect (pcb is 37x27x15, enclosure is 53x28x21). In theory, just need to cut a hole in one end for the usb cable, and mount the pcb in a way that means it cant float around inside the enclosure.
For the USB mount, I didnt really want to leave a long usb lead permanently attached, so figured I would go with a small micro usb extension cable. The end that connects to the tracker can stay permanently wired in, and I can plug the longer lead into the extension when actually in use. Something like this would look to do the job perfectly.
Once the bits have arrived, will post again with how well it actually worked
For them to sit in, I have ordered a couple of these. Nice and cheap, and dimensions are near perfect (pcb is 37x27x15, enclosure is 53x28x21). In theory, just need to cut a hole in one end for the usb cable, and mount the pcb in a way that means it cant float around inside the enclosure.
For the USB mount, I didnt really want to leave a long usb lead permanently attached, so figured I would go with a small micro usb extension cable. The end that connects to the tracker can stay permanently wired in, and I can plug the longer lead into the extension when actually in use. Something like this would look to do the job perfectly.
Once the bits have arrived, will post again with how well it actually worked
hope that works for you mate, my daughterboard had a bit extra on the board itself, for the lead going into the box iteself I used a micro usb lead going to a normal usb lead, I made sure the plug was held inside the box so the lead does not pull on the usb socket on the micro, with the board and usb plug inside it measured at 5.1cm, you can also see the bit extra I have on the duaghter board which I was too lazy to hacksaw off.
You will also need to do what I did if you want the top on by cutting a whole in the top for the switch or side otherwise you wont be able to put the top on, overall its not that big measuring 6.7cm in length 3.3cm in width 2cm in height
I got mine from maplins
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1-9v-switched-battery-box-l90an
£2.19 can't go wrong
You will also need to do what I did if you want the top on by cutting a whole in the top for the switch or side otherwise you wont be able to put the top on, overall its not that big measuring 6.7cm in length 3.3cm in width 2cm in height
I got mine from maplins
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1-9v-switched-battery-box-l90an
£2.19 can't go wrong
With my 2x trackers now looking pretty damned stable, I figured it was time to look at getting the overall package sorted: something for them to sit in, and a way of minimising damage to the usb mount (this is inherently bit of a weak link).
For them to sit in, I have ordered a couple of these. Nice and cheap, and dimensions are near perfect (pcb is 37x27x15, enclosure is 53x28x21). In theory, just need to cut a hole in one end for the usb cable, and mount the pcb in a way that means it cant float around inside the enclosure.
For the USB mount, I didnt really want to leave a long usb lead permanently attached, so figured I would go with a small micro usb extension cable. The end that connects to the tracker can stay permanently wired in, and I can plug the longer lead into the extension when actually in use. Something like this would look to do the job perfectly.
Once the bits have arrived, will post again with how well it actually worked
That case looks perfect, very thin light weight shell.
Out of interest, has anyone built one of these with a 9150 yet? Looking at the specs of the 9150, it shouldn't take much (any?) extra effort to integrate, as it should automatically be using the magnetometer to offset drift and the results the pro micro sees should include the corrected values by default
disclaimer: my investigation has been *very* brief, so it is quite possible that I am missing something fundamental. Would love to hear more if anyone else has experience with this...
disclaimer: my investigation has been *very* brief, so it is quite possible that I am missing something fundamental. Would love to hear more if anyone else has experience with this...
I've got one on order and will be attempting to set it up with magnetometer drift correction as soon as it arrives. it doesn't look too hard, having dug into the code a bit but it wouldn't surprise me if it needed a separate sketch to the standard one due to space limitations such.
I'll report more once I know more.