DIY Head Tracker For A Tenner

robbyp

robbyp
Pluralitas said:
Recently upgraded to UI 4.0, with the 9150 V4.0.1 sketch, the auto-centering is very strong, whenever i turned my head, it just goes back to the normal position....

Also i have noticed that there is no more 9150cal sketch, but the magnometer tab is intergrated into the 4.0.1, however the "Save Calibration" button is grey out... and i cannot do anything. Tried using the auto gyro bias but didnt do anything...
Click to expand...

You need to go thru the cal process as Brumster says - look for his youtube video on how to calibrate it..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2xCjdC4X0I

Its also important, i've found, before you try and use it, to make sure its in its upright position and perform the Bias Calc. It autocalibrates after it first powers up and where I store the headset it seems not to work okay after this. I have to perform a manual bias cal to get it nice and stable via the GUI.
 
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erbal

erbal
My temperature reading is 5164.00 ... does that mean I fried the sensor when I was putting it together?

I'm able to connect and flash the device, but I get no readings from it - I'm 'using' the 9150 part.
 

nosscar

nosscar
As i sit on the settee with a big screen tv, and my computer is away in the corner, i would be very interested in that wireless version when it's ready.
just now i use a 3.5m usb extension lead.

One tip i do have that works well for me is these velcro pads, quite cheap and have a good solid grip. Just cut to size needed with scissors, very handy if you need to remove the Edtracker from your headset, or transfer to another pair, i wrapped some around the cable too, for less movement on the usb socket.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001786DAK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
 

Arkhanist

A
I've built 3 9150 edtrackers now, one for my myself and two for friends. They're all working great with the v4 mag firmware, and first I just wanted to say how awesome they are and you guys are for all the work you've put into the breadboard, guides and especially software to make them work!

So now I've buttered you up ;) I wondered if you had any tips for my current problem. I reinforced the two support joints on the USB port on the pro micro arduino board on the two I gave to friends (with a dab of extra solder), but entirely forgot to do my own - and while moving it to another headset managed to tear the usb port right off. D'oh. It took one of the 5 pads off the board, and one of the pins too, so I'm not even going to attempt to repair that (and I'm pretty sure my soldering isn't up to that level anyway!)

So - I've got a new pro micro board on the way, but need to figure out how to get the current one separated from the rest of the pcb assembly without damaging any other components. I did a fair bit of soldering 15-20 years ago, but I'm pretty rusty.

I'm happy to sacrifice the pro micro and/or the pins, as long as I save the pcb and 9150. I've thought of two approaches so far:

1) desolder the joints on the pro micro board on the USB port side using solder wick (I've never been any good with spring desolder pumps), then slowly try and lever the pro micro off while heating individual pins, and then eventually clean up with a load more solder wick. Straight swap for new board, solder and done. Plus side is that I don't have to remove anything else, but I suspect pulling the whole board off will be tricky. I could cut the pro micro board with a junior hacksaw away from the pins first, but I'm not sure that will make it any easier to get the remnants off!

2) desolder and remove the 9150 board first; still have to desolder and remove 8 joints, but only on one side so definitely easier to remove. That then gives me access again to the reverse of the pro micro pins. Then I can just desolder the pushbutton side of the pins, and/or cut the pro micro pins entirely and desolder the pin remnants one by one which will be considerably easier - I know I can do this stage. The downside is I risk also damaging the 9150 removing it, and I don't want have to replace that too!

Any thoughts on which might be easier from experience, or another suggestion on approach would be much appreciated. New pro micro and pins will probably turn up tomorrow or saturday, so that's when I'll be attempting my repair. Playing last night without the edtracker was a horrlble experience, like I had a missing limb, so want to get it going asap really!
 

JaskoMaughann

JaskoMaughann
Got my 6150 tracker the other day and I'm delighted with it.
If you're considering buying either version, I can't recommend them highly enough.

Thanks for making this project happen guys!
 

brumster

brumster
I would just take the Pro Micro off the pin headers. Crank your iron up a few degrees higher and wick out the pins as described (I also much prefer wick). Don't be afraid to give the pins a bit of pressure to "move" them in the hole and open up the area between the pin and pad; I find this helps the solder let loose and soak up. Run along one edge on each side, then flip the board round 180 degrees and run along the other side of the pins. My golden rule - do NOT be tempted to try and lever it off if you're not seeing black rings (ie. no solder) in the holes around the pins! Have said that, some pins are obviously more important than others. 2,3,7,10, VCC and at least one of the GNDs. If you end up ripping out the odd one of the others, it's not the end of the world let's face it. If you get the copper shell of the drilling still left on the pin, just heat it up and pull it off the pin. Bit of flux pen to clean the whole thing up and you should be set for the replacement.

Which pad/pin has pulled off the USB connector anyway? The 2nd from the right (looking down on top of it, with the connector towards you) does naff all anyway, you can live without it ;-)
 

Arkhanist

A
Cheers for the advice, I'll give it a go with the wick'n'wiggle approach on the pro micro side. Going to have to get some flux I think, can't find my old tin! IIRC putting some flux on first will help it desolder? I do have an adjustable iron tho, so that'll help.

As you say, only a few pins matter, kinda wish I hadn't soldered all of the unused pins now! I'm using another pro micro for my analog thumbstick mod to my throttle (was inspired after dusting off my iron for the edtrackers), so I only put pins on the connections I needed. they are fun little boards to work with for sure, once I figured out how to customise the USB HID descriptor!

For the damaged USB connector, It's the first pad on the left, looking down on it with connector towards me.
 

AstroZak

A
I received my 9150 yesterday. The setup process is ok, bascially, plug in, load the edtracker software, setup the magnet thingy calibration - spin the headset like a demented chicken, they say that 500 points is enough, but I found that the more you do the better. (I stopped after about 1000), then place it so that it's oriented correctly to the monitor, hit the gyro reset and you are done. It is extremenly simple. There's even a video on YouTube that walks you through the whole process. You couldn't ask for anymore. It really is dead simple to use.


Once setup, it's a game changer. The difference between playing with and without headtracking is subtle, but does add a whole new level to the immesion. Combat will make alot more sense as you'll be able to see the ship when it's just outside your field of view - this should help me raise my game as I should find it easier to get on the tail of my opponent. That is something that I have yet to experience. Docking at a station is much easier as I can put the station in a side window and look to the side to judge when to make the turn for the slot - this is much much more real than I was expecting, so much so that I'd recommend this to everyone for this point alone.
 

Cube55

C
I use the EDtracker for one week and I having some problems with the yaw axis. Sometimes when I turn my head, the axis is still recovering at the center. The "Toggle auto-center" button is grayed out (I cannot click it).
I have to reconfigure the magnometer every time I have this problem (I have the 9150) and after that it does not return to the center.

I also have another problem when I turn head left or right too far, the axis rotates directly to the opposite side (+/- 180 °)

Have an idea?

But otherwise the tracker works well.

thank you
 

pocketmoon

P
Cube55 said:
I have to reconfigure the magnometer every time I have this problem (I have the 9150) and after that it does not return to the center.
thank you
Click to expand...

Hi, If you load the UI, and look on the Magnetometer tab, does it show 6 values under the Matrix column?
I have heard of one issue where the magnetometer settings get wiped but I've not been able to track the problem down yet.
 

wstephenson

wstephenson
Brumster & co: any chance you can have your EDTracker Pro Plus ("user may require caffeine after prolonged play sessions") baked into a midrange headset? Having sound, mic and head tracking in one package would be too awesome. Or, once you've proven the design, license it to one of the gaming peripheral makers in time for the SC release, and retire :).
 

Loriath

Loriath
Oh I think I am going to have to get one of these.

Question: Do you ship to outside the UK? Say Switzerland? And how? Post I would imagine.
 

Keljian

K
Quick one - some people are saying you don't need the button if you use the mpu9150 is this true? if it is I may just leave it off my edtracker board
 
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Antmax

Antmax
You can reset it in software through the UI. I don't know for sure. But I'd probably leave the button just incase something goes wrong that causes compatibility problem with the UI tool. Something that a reset might help.

Having said that, unplugging it might do much the same thing as the reset when you plug it back in. with the 9150 software the button starts a 20 second calibration reset.
 

brumster

brumster
Yeah, like you said Antmax - technically you can re-centre using a function key with the GUI, so if for some reason people have a pressing desire to not have the button, it can be skipped. On the mag version, it does a quick re-centre - a gyro calibration is done when you power the thing on. So leaving it off won't prevent you from doing anything you can't do another way.
 

theEmohawk

T
Is the 9150 now a significant and sensible update? I'm finding yaw drift on mine to be a pain and end up recalibrating every few sessions. This might be because in use it runs around 32C and the room temp is closer to 20C, so perhaps the temperature fluctuations don't help.

I know that when I got my tracker the devs were just starting on the 9150, so is it safe to say that several months later 9150 would be the devs choice? .
 
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Keljian

K
brumster said:
Yeah, like you said Antmax - technically you can re-centre using a function key with the GUI, so if for some reason people have a pressing desire to not have the button, it can be skipped. On the mag version, it does a quick re-centre - a gyro calibration is done when you power the thing on. So leaving it off won't prevent you from doing anything you can't do another way.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Much appreciated!
 
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