DIY Head Tracker For A Tenner

Stodgy

Stodgy
BeanHaricot said:
I had the same exact problem. After debugging it a bit, I found that I had wired the momentary switch incorrectly so that it was always on. The tracker was constantly resetting itself. Once I fixed that, the EDTrackerII sketch started working fine.
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Thanks but I think I might have a faulty pro micro or a dodgy bit of soldier somewhere. I have found that if I unplug it and let it cool down the EDTrackerII sketch works fine for about 5 mins. Then as it heats up it works intermittently for a few mins before stopping altogether.

Got another one that I made for a friend that works 100% of the time.
 

Njos

N
Time to give my EDTracker some more stable mount, with velcro. But I'm really debated (mostly since it involves spreading glue on my hadsets): top or side? Top looks more appropriate but side makes wire managment so much easier, which is not a secondary aspect, and also clicking the button when needed looks much faster if on the side.

Any advice? :)
 

Storagebod

S
Njos said:
Time to give my EDTracker some more stable mount, with velcro. But I'm really debated (mostly since it involves spreading glue on my hadsets): top or side? Top looks more appropriate but side makes wire managment so much easier, which is not a secondary aspect, and also clicking the button when needed looks much faster if on the side.

Any advice? :)
Click to expand...

Get some adhesive backed velcro...this way it's more easily removable. The velcro that is.

Did mine yesterday..I always have velcro around as it is great for quick and dirty modding of stuff. Currently it seems to be holding up fine..
 

NeilF

NeilF
Njos said:
Time to give my EDTracker some more stable mount, with velcro. But I'm really debated (mostly since it involves spreading glue on my hadsets): top or side? Top looks more appropriate but side makes wire managment so much easier, which is not a secondary aspect, and also clicking the button when needed looks much faster if on the side.

Any advice? :)
Click to expand...

I've got 25mm square velcro pads. Two of these work perfectly on my 50mm long case.
 

Njos

N
Sounds good but Ill glue them just to avoid long term.... surprises. So I get you went for the side mount. Guess I'll go that way finally.
 

n0ahg

N
Njos said:
Sounds good but Ill glue them just to avoid long term.... surprises. So I get you went for the side mount. Guess I'll go that way finally.
Click to expand...

The MPU-6050 and MPU-9150 are intended to mount horizontally for best accuracy as they work best when gravity acts through the plane where most of the sensor sits (gravity passing down through the chip when it is lying flat).
 

Njos

N
n0ahg said:
The MPU-6050 and MPU-9150 are intended to mount horizontally for best accuracy as they work best when gravity acts through the plane where most of the sensor sits (gravity passing down through the chip when it is lying flat).
Click to expand...

Damn need some more velcro now :D
 

Vergoth

V
What's the best housing and mounting options for the top of a headset?

I can't find those maplins project boxes in the right size.
 

Storagebod

S
Vergoth said:
What's the best housing and mounting options for the top of a headset?

I can't find those maplins project boxes in the right size.
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Try this one....

Part Description Qty.
===================================
N78BQ Mini ABS 50x35x17 Bk

I've just put mine in it...fits fine after a bit of modding...
 

NeilF

NeilF
Vergoth said:
Ok sweet, how do you mean modding? Do I need to pad it out with some antistatic foam?
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As said (RE Maplin's N78BQ Mini ABS 50x35x17 Black):-
- the corner (about 3mm square) needs to be chopped off of one corner of the PCB for it to fit (small hand saw).
- two small plastic risers need to be chopped out of the way (sharp craft knife).
- a opening needs to be cut for the USB cable to come through (sharp craft knife).
- a hole needs to be drilled for the switch to poke through (drill) - Tip: Put some masking tape on inside of lid. Put some felt tip ink on the switch. Put the lid on/down. Drill where the dot is.
- I used a bunch of sticky pads inside top and bottom to keep the PCB in place.

A bad picture of mine - http://s23.postimg.org/ysafd5t4r/DSC03678s.jpg

Finished on headset - http://s13.postimg.org/fomwgh31z/DSC03695.jpg (held on with two 25mm square velcro pads to the top of headphones)

If you don't like the idea of cutting the corner off the PCB there is an identical 6cm long version of the case. But the unit may need a little more securing in there as it will move along the length of it.
 
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Storagebod

S
NeilF said:
As said (RE N78BQ Mini ABS 50x35x17 Black):-
- the corner (about 3mm square) needs to be chopped off of one corner of the PCB for it to fit (small hand saw).
- two small plastic risers need to be chopped out of the way (sharp craft knife).
- a opening needs to be cut for the USB cable to come through (sharp craft knife).
- a hole needs to be drilled for the switch to poke through (drill) - Tip: Put some masking tape on inside of lid. Put some felt tip ink on the switch. Put the lid on/down. Drill where the dot is.
- I used a bunch of sticky pads inside top and bottom to keep the PCB in place.

A bad picture of mine - http://s23.postimg.org/ysafd5t4r/DSC03678s.jpg (now held on with two 25mm square velcro pads to the top of headphones)

If you don't like the idea of cutting the corner off the PCB there is an identical 6cm long version of the case. But the unit may need a little more securing in there as it will move along the length of it.
Click to expand...

Actually, I just removed one of the screw holders and didn't hack the PCB. It seems pretty solid with just one screw.
 
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