Hotas Recommendations?

Yours are the exception rather than the rule. My first Saitek X56 lasted less than a year, my second, Logitech version, was 2 years old when the stick drifted off into the sunset. I do still occasionally use the Logitech X56 throttle with a VKB joystick though.
 
How long low tier joysticks last and whether they fail does have something to do with how they are used. I will admit that I manhandle things without meaning to.
 
I have the T16000m also and I have to NOT recommend it. I also had the z-drift after a couple of months, then I fixed it, then it returned and I fixed it again, then it returned and I couldn’t fix it. I never disassembled the POT I just relieved the pressure on it, maybe the 3rd time it needed to be taken apart but I opted to replace it with a Hall effect sensor which has worked well but requires soldering and tweaking and time time time. Also, I broke tabs on 2 buttons which I cannot find replacements for.
It’s such a comfortable stick and I love the throttle but with these kinds of problems how could I recommend it?? Get a VKB instead.
By the time you get done buying and discarding TM16000's you could have a good setup. I bought 3 of the things and replaced two via support. The purchased units were me being tired of waiting for support to return emails and demand videos of failures. Some are hard to video in a way they will accept. Finally I wised up that it was not a problem with 'bad luck'. They just will not hold up to the amount of use these games put them to. Twist drift, throttle sticking, buttons failed, having to set huge dead-zones on X/Y, throttle paddles failed, throttle thumbstick failed.

I was of course unfortunate and hit Virpil when they had the cable issue and it took forever to resolve that. After that I've put more use on that than the previous 3 TM1600's combined. The throttle is just awesome and so is the stick. Both have a damped, buttery smooth feel to them.
 
I have the same hotas and it does drift as mentioned. Not all the time thankfully, but occasionally is still annoying. Do you have a link to the video that helped you fix this problem please?

Other than the occasional Z axis drift it's an awesome hotas. This is my second one in 5 years or so.

There are several similar ones, but I think this is the one I followed:
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVzhEgHS4bA


After disassembly, I used an air duster can to blow all the dust out of all the inner workings and cleaned the sensor with a q-tip and alcohol, as shown. I also carefully applied a small amount of 3M White Lithium grease to the pivot spot. It hasn't drifted a millimeter since.
 
There are several similar ones, but I think this is the one I followed:
Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVzhEgHS4bA


After disassembly, I used an air duster can to blow all the dust out of all the inner workings and cleaned the sensor with a q-tip and alcohol, as shown. I also carefully applied a small amount of 3M White Lithium grease to the pivot spot. It hasn't drifted a millimeter since.
Many thanks! I'll look into that in the morning!
 
I have the Thrustmaster 16000M HOTAS and find it's decent. It splits the difference between the entry-level pieces of junk that no one wants and the exorbitantly expensive pro models that my wife would crucify me if I bought.

It's not perfect by any means. It's mostly plastic but still feels fairly durable. The stick is definitely prone to z-axis drift; mine got unbearable at about 500 hours of use. However, the fix is not difficult and since I did it (just followed a how-to on YouTube), it's been rock-solid. I like the functionality of the throttle, plenty of buttons, knobs and switches. The throttle downside to me, though, is the glide mechanism. The throttle slides on two horizontal metal rails inside. The resistance can be adjusted via a tension screw on the bottom and by lubricating the rails. I have found that finding and maintaining the sweet spot can be a bit of a hassle. To get the throttle sliding at my desired "smoothness" required heavy lubrication (WD-40 White Lithium grease) and a significant decrease on the tension screw. However, as the resistance decreases, the throttle grips the rails less firmly, making it extremely prone to "grabbiness". I can't think of a better term for it. If you keep the throttle moving perfectly along the plane of the horizontal rails, it's smooth as silk. If you get too far off-axis, it will "grab" and you'll lift the entire throttle up off the table or desk it's on. I find that even more aggravating than too much tension. So I've had to settle for a resistance level that is slightly too firm for my taste in order to minimize the grabbiness.

I found an open-box at Best Buy that included the rudder pedals, which I didn't want to use so I sold them. Between the open-box discount and the money from selling the pedals, I think my net cost was about $100. So at that price, I feel like I'm getting great value for my money.

I found just the 16000 joystick at a Walmart when it was closing, got it for $45 CAD which was a good deal IMO. It's a decent stick, a little low on the button count on the shaft but the build quality, as you said, is good.
 
The new high end Thrustmaster stuff is not quite up to the same quality standards as I remember pre Guillemot in the 90's. I used a FCS Pro, WCSII, and TM rudders for over 20 years. Even after the death of the game port and I had to pick up an active USB adapter for the game ports they kept going. I did, have to change the springs out in the FCS and rudder pedals a couple times and add a drop of silicone grease here and there, at some point I ended up adding a button board, but those things cost me next to nothing. It took my house burning down to end that relationship. The Virpil and VKB stuff I have now seems to be of the old Thrustmaster quality. The expected longevity and quality difference, between the likes of Virpil or VKB and the Logitech or even newer Thrustmaster stuff, is really too large to ignore. I don't consider them expensive when I believe I will still be using them in a decade.
 
I hear ya. I have a shelf of lower tier joysticks that began failing which I haven't been able to bring myself to toss, in hopes I'll make a friend at some point that wants to try ED that I can give them to as a starter set. My wife calls it "the joystick graveyard", and now adamantly opposes me buying cheaper flight gear. If your wife doesn't like you spending $150 on a joystick, just wait until you burn through a handful of $50 sticks, she'll change her mind l! 🤣
Buying a third T16k in 18 months was my last straw. The wife grumbled about the price ( At the time a Gladiator II with SCG handle upgrade + shipping was roughly $280 or so.. ) but saw the logic. She also grumbled about my dis-assembling it to clean and re-grease it, endless adjustments to the firmware, re-re-re-mapping buttons, and changing springs until it was perfect. I'll freely admit it was a new toy and it didn't NEED any of that, but I digress. Two years on, it doesn't need dead spot adjustments, all the buttons work perfectly, and I'm still happy with it.

Strangely enough, remembering all the way to my earliest gaming days, I did the same thing back in the early 1990's. Ended up buying a really nice, at the time, CH Flightstick ( $45 ? ) because I kept burning the cheap Walm*rt trash sticks ( $15 ). I still own it, BTW, and it sits in honor on my bookshelf. Many MANY hours playing F-15 Strike Eagle, Gunship, and the Wing Commander series, never missed a beat. If I wanted to mess around with USB-Gameport adapters it would probably still work. It doesn't have "twist", multiple hats, or a few dozen buttons, but the gimbals and buttons still work.

s-l300.jpg
 
Virpil is top of the line, but VKB NXTs are great for the price and deliver Virpil performance, just without the luxury feel. Like a "not-so-poor-man's" Virpil.

Owned both fwiw.

We live in strange times indeed when VKB can be thought to play second fiddle to anyone. Those things were the puppies privates for, like, ever… assuming you could actually get your hands on one.
VKB and VPL are both pretty much god tier as far as “consumer” products go.

also special mention has to go to MFG rudder pedals which are works of art.
 
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Recently sold my ageing saitek x56 which was in good order BTW inc the twist. And replaced it with the newer logitech version.
Why? Cos it's perfect. Fab stick. I've put a detent on the throttle and no deadzones at all. I tend to roll n turn as its quicker with flicking fa off n on whilst doing the turn.
That way I avoid sustained use of the notorious yaw axis on the stick.
Tried pedals just couldn't get used to em.
So my votes the logitech x56.
Price wise it's a winner too.

o7
I use pedals for roll and pedals for steering the SRV. Leaves my stick free for the turret.

having pitch and yaw on the stick really helps with fixed-weapondistance sniping, which becomes second nature.
Did take me a few days to be able to get back my FA off landing skillz, tho.

but now it’s a breeze and as a plus, I’m better at CQC than I used to be.
 
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