By the time you get done buying and discarding TM16000's you could have a good setup. I bought 3 of the things and replaced two via support. The purchased units were me being tired of waiting for support to return emails and demand videos of failures. Some are hard to video in a way they will accept. Finally I wised up that it was not a problem with 'bad luck'. They just will not hold up to the amount of use these games put them to. Twist drift, throttle sticking, buttons failed, having to set huge dead-zones on X/Y, throttle paddles failed, throttle thumbstick failed.I have the T16000m also and I have to NOT recommend it. I also had the z-drift after a couple of months, then I fixed it, then it returned and I fixed it again, then it returned and I couldn’t fix it. I never disassembled the POT I just relieved the pressure on it, maybe the 3rd time it needed to be taken apart but I opted to replace it with a Hall effect sensor which has worked well but requires soldering and tweaking and time time time. Also, I broke tabs on 2 buttons which I cannot find replacements for.
It’s such a comfortable stick and I love the throttle but with these kinds of problems how could I recommend it?? Get a VKB instead.
I have the same hotas and it does drift as mentioned. Not all the time thankfully, but occasionally is still annoying. Do you have a link to the video that helped you fix this problem please?
Other than the occasional Z axis drift it's an awesome hotas. This is my second one in 5 years or so.
Many thanks! I'll look into that in the morning!There are several similar ones, but I think this is the one I followed:Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVzhEgHS4bA
After disassembly, I used an air duster can to blow all the dust out of all the inner workings and cleaned the sensor with a q-tip and alcohol, as shown. I also carefully applied a small amount of 3M White Lithium grease to the pivot spot. It hasn't drifted a millimeter since.
Me too. And it works great...but.Geez, I just use kb+m
I have the Thrustmaster 16000M HOTAS and find it's decent. It splits the difference between the entry-level pieces of junk that no one wants and the exorbitantly expensive pro models that my wife would crucify me if I bought.
It's not perfect by any means. It's mostly plastic but still feels fairly durable. The stick is definitely prone to z-axis drift; mine got unbearable at about 500 hours of use. However, the fix is not difficult and since I did it (just followed a how-to on YouTube), it's been rock-solid. I like the functionality of the throttle, plenty of buttons, knobs and switches. The throttle downside to me, though, is the glide mechanism. The throttle slides on two horizontal metal rails inside. The resistance can be adjusted via a tension screw on the bottom and by lubricating the rails. I have found that finding and maintaining the sweet spot can be a bit of a hassle. To get the throttle sliding at my desired "smoothness" required heavy lubrication (WD-40 White Lithium grease) and a significant decrease on the tension screw. However, as the resistance decreases, the throttle grips the rails less firmly, making it extremely prone to "grabbiness". I can't think of a better term for it. If you keep the throttle moving perfectly along the plane of the horizontal rails, it's smooth as silk. If you get too far off-axis, it will "grab" and you'll lift the entire throttle up off the table or desk it's on. I find that even more aggravating than too much tension. So I've had to settle for a resistance level that is slightly too firm for my taste in order to minimize the grabbiness.
I found an open-box at Best Buy that included the rudder pedals, which I didn't want to use so I sold them. Between the open-box discount and the money from selling the pedals, I think my net cost was about $100. So at that price, I feel like I'm getting great value for my money.
Buying a third T16k in 18 months was my last straw. The wife grumbled about the price ( At the time a Gladiator II with SCG handle upgrade + shipping was roughly $280 or so.. ) but saw the logic. She also grumbled about my dis-assembling it to clean and re-grease it, endless adjustments to the firmware, re-re-re-mapping buttons, and changing springs until it was perfect. I'll freely admit it was a new toy and it didn't NEED any of that, but I digress. Two years on, it doesn't need dead spot adjustments, all the buttons work perfectly, and I'm still happy with it.I hear ya. I have a shelf of lower tier joysticks that began failing which I haven't been able to bring myself to toss, in hopes I'll make a friend at some point that wants to try ED that I can give them to as a starter set. My wife calls it "the joystick graveyard", and now adamantly opposes me buying cheaper flight gear. If your wife doesn't like you spending $150 on a joystick, just wait until you burn through a handful of $50 sticks, she'll change her mind l!![]()
Virpil is top of the line, but VKB NXTs are great for the price and deliver Virpil performance, just without the luxury feel. Like a "not-so-poor-man's" Virpil.
Owned both fwiw.
I use pedals for roll and pedals for steering the SRV. Leaves my stick free for the turret.Recently sold my ageing saitek x56 which was in good order BTW inc the twist. And replaced it with the newer logitech version.
Why? Cos it's perfect. Fab stick. I've put a detent on the throttle and no deadzones at all. I tend to roll n turn as its quicker with flicking fa off n on whilst doing the turn.
That way I avoid sustained use of the notorious yaw axis on the stick.
Tried pedals just couldn't get used to em.
So my votes the logitech x56.
Price wise it's a winner too.
o7
Got a VKB gladiator Myself. Great quality for a great price.Virpil or VKB are the ones to go for. Superb quality.
I have an X56 currently, that's works well for me, but will want to upgrade at some point probably to the VKB NXT, due to price.