I never calibrated mine. I use Joystick Curves from the Xedoc project. That gives me super precise control near the center of the axis. And for me, it's consistent. I really don't think ED is messing with the calibration; at least I haven't noticed such. If you are using the TARGET software, that might be the problem. I uninstalled that as soon as I saw that to use the curves function, you had to combine the stick and the throttle into one device. Since each logical device can only have 8 axes and there are 9 on the Stick and Throttle, I figured that using Xedoc's Joystick Curves would be the better option.
Hardware & Technical Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread
- Thread starter Henkka77
- Start date
I never calibrated mine. I use Joystick Curves from the Xedoc project. That gives me super precise control near the center of the axis. And for me, it's consistent. I really don't think ED is messing with the calibration; at least I haven't noticed such. If you are using the TARGET software, that might be the problem. I uninstalled that as soon as I saw that to use the curves function, you had to combine the stick and the throttle into one device. Since each logical device can only have 8 axes and there are 9 on the Stick and Throttle, I figured that using Xedoc's Joystick Curves would be the better option.
Thanks. Maybe its just me then. I just remembered that when I first calibrated the stick I was able to use fixed weapons really effectively keeping on target and I was happy about it because at first it was hard to get used to compared to an xbox controller and I thought about how good it was because I would be finally be able to use fixed weapons and actually hit something. But the next few times I noticed that the accuracy became no better so I thought it may be that the game nerfs it. Maybe the AI ships got better.
Hi,i have some questions, my joystick is first T.16000M model with green light, i read some comments here about new T.16000M and i notice few comments about yaw (rudder) potentiometer from the new joystick, this potentiometer is the same quality with one from first T.16000M model with green light or is worst? i notice some users have problemes with yaw potentiometer from the new joystick,i have tested 15 minutes a used T.16000M FCS joystick from a friend and i notice the base buttons are smaller and when i press them i hear a loud plastic clicking noise,on a new t16000m fcs do you hear that loud plastic clicking noise when you press base buttons?Thanks
My T.16000M FCS has fairly quiet buttons, that's about the only good thing about it.
I think it's a terrible piece of hardware. It looks the part, but how on earth something like this gets through Quality Control is beyond me. What with the horrible sticky throttle and the well known Potentiometer problem it just defies belief.
I'm going through the process now of getting mine sent back and replaced. I just hope the quality has improved on the replacement when it arrives.
Thrustmaster can make a sturdy and reliable cheap stick like the T.Flight Hotas-X that never goes wrong, and then they churn out rubbish like the 16000M and charge 3 times the price. Incredible.
Sorry, rant over!
I think it's a terrible piece of hardware. It looks the part, but how on earth something like this gets through Quality Control is beyond me. What with the horrible sticky throttle and the well known Potentiometer problem it just defies belief.
I'm going through the process now of getting mine sent back and replaced. I just hope the quality has improved on the replacement when it arrives.
Thrustmaster can make a sturdy and reliable cheap stick like the T.Flight Hotas-X that never goes wrong, and then they churn out rubbish like the 16000M and charge 3 times the price. Incredible.
Sorry, rant over!
First version of T16000 Yaw potentiometer have the same dimensions. I had disassembled both these sticks (old and new) and imo 1st version potentiometer looks as better quality. But to be honest ... both are poor and if I did not maintained these myself, I needed sent this joystick to maintenance every few months. ... It's really sad bcs it is just only one thing which is crap on this hardware ... I use FCS hotas and everything works smoothly all the time .. except Yaw.
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You were right, it lasted about a week after recalibrating.
Received my replacement 16000M on Monday. I had a very easy exchange experience with the company I bought it from. I emailed Thrustmaster support to explain the problem, they told me to contact my supplier, so I did. They then asked me to forward the email from Thrustmaster, and then they arranged collection/replacement within 3 days. Result!
The new throttle is maybe a little smoother than the old one, all is well again. Here's hoping this one goes the distance
Hey guys,
this is not a direct Elite problem but since some here have that throttle and TM seems not to have a proper product forum, maybe someone has an idea. I have the TWCS stand alone, but should be the exact same thing as the FCS.
So i have an analog axis input problem that stems from the TWCS port connector for the compatible TM TFRP rudder pedals. If you don't have those installed and plugged into that port on the TWCS, the TWCS driver still registers a 50% input for the TFRP rudder axis. Some games, like Arma 3 and HITMAN 2016 for instance, register this constant input. HITMAN 2016 outright refuses to work properly with mouse and keyboard and thinks i've got an Xbox controller plugged in. Arma 3 on the otherhand, adds the TFRP rudder axis input to each keybind i want to remap cause it registers it as being pressed (although this is obviously a false positiv since i don't have the TFRP let alone have it plugged into the port).
So once i finally tracked this input signal problem down to that TWCS port or better the false rudder pedal input signal, i set up a TARGET profile for the TWCS which does not contain the rudder pedal axes at all. Yep, that sufficiently solves my issue. But i kinda don't like having a TARGET profile running at all. I would have to spend a good deal of time remapping everything for multiple games. Is there any other way i might be able to disable this TFRP rudder pedal input signal without TARGET?
this is not a direct Elite problem but since some here have that throttle and TM seems not to have a proper product forum, maybe someone has an idea. I have the TWCS stand alone, but should be the exact same thing as the FCS.
So i have an analog axis input problem that stems from the TWCS port connector for the compatible TM TFRP rudder pedals. If you don't have those installed and plugged into that port on the TWCS, the TWCS driver still registers a 50% input for the TFRP rudder axis. Some games, like Arma 3 and HITMAN 2016 for instance, register this constant input. HITMAN 2016 outright refuses to work properly with mouse and keyboard and thinks i've got an Xbox controller plugged in. Arma 3 on the otherhand, adds the TFRP rudder axis input to each keybind i want to remap cause it registers it as being pressed (although this is obviously a false positiv since i don't have the TFRP let alone have it plugged into the port).
So once i finally tracked this input signal problem down to that TWCS port or better the false rudder pedal input signal, i set up a TARGET profile for the TWCS which does not contain the rudder pedal axes at all. Yep, that sufficiently solves my issue. But i kinda don't like having a TARGET profile running at all. I would have to spend a good deal of time remapping everything for multiple games. Is there any other way i might be able to disable this TFRP rudder pedal input signal without TARGET?
Anyone know where to buy these potentiometers? I now have 1 joystick that works fine except for a broken potentiometer.
EDIT:
So what eventually worked for me; the tool DIView (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12 or just google it) allows to view all axes of all game controllers and change saturation, deadzone and min/centre/max values for each axes of each device individually. It automatically saves those changed values in the windows registry for each device, thus you don't need to start or run DIView or a service each time you want to play.
For my particular problem: both TFRP toe brakes reportead at 100% and with some fiddling around i could get them to report at 50% or as neutral. I actually had to set them to its max value so they report at 50%. Quite goofy! Anyway, neither Arma 3 nor HITMAN take offense anymore.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/7ec712/t16000m_yaw_potentiometer/ here is posted some source, but I suggest first try clean this small pot, how to open it is in link. I carefully cleaned this my and its few months when it works good again.
I can confirm that cleaning the potentiometer can help a bit. I about a week without ghost yaw before the problem started again.
Avago Earo
Banned
For those with similar anatomies, this is my solution to discomfort:
[video=youtube_share;GGMgLmEf0O4]https://youtu.be/GGMgLmEf0O4[/video]
This is a video from someone else describing the problem:
[video=youtube_share;hoOWQ2hzqqo]https://youtu.be/hoOWQ2hzqqo[/video]
[video=youtube_share;GGMgLmEf0O4]https://youtu.be/GGMgLmEf0O4[/video]
This is a video from someone else describing the problem:
[video=youtube_share;hoOWQ2hzqqo]https://youtu.be/hoOWQ2hzqqo[/video]
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Greetings everyone!
I have a question for you. I tried to get the answer on the forums, but did not find it. I got a Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS. Got some nice binding files on the frontier forum, tried them out. They all seem nice, but, on all of them I face the same problem. The lateral thrusters are very wild. They go crazy. It is very hard to adjust to the platform when landing. Also on free camera mode, as soon as it starts it goes all over the place. It doesn't keep still. Any advices. I installed the new drivers, calibrate, etc... Nothing seems to work. Maybe I am missing something here. Also tried to set dead zones, but did not helped. Here is a picture of my bindings:
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
CMDR Kuarup
I have a question for you. I tried to get the answer on the forums, but did not find it. I got a Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS. Got some nice binding files on the frontier forum, tried them out. They all seem nice, but, on all of them I face the same problem. The lateral thrusters are very wild. They go crazy. It is very hard to adjust to the platform when landing. Also on free camera mode, as soon as it starts it goes all over the place. It doesn't keep still. Any advices. I installed the new drivers, calibrate, etc... Nothing seems to work. Maybe I am missing something here. Also tried to set dead zones, but did not helped. Here is a picture of my bindings:
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
CMDR Kuarup
A little more info...
On the control panel, the ministick looks pretty bad. I unplugged and plugged it back. I returns to center. But, once I touch it, even with full extended rotation, clockwise and counter-clockwise, when released, it stops far away from the center...
Any advice?
Thanks!
Regards,
CMDR Kuarup
On the control panel, the ministick looks pretty bad. I unplugged and plugged it back. I returns to center. But, once I touch it, even with full extended rotation, clockwise and counter-clockwise, when released, it stops far away from the center...
Any advice?
Thanks!
Regards,
CMDR Kuarup
I'm guessing your issue is with the analogue stick on the throttle. It's a bit squirrelly TBH. I use it for up / down / left / right thrust, and even with quite a sizeable deadzone set it's still not really possible (at least for me) to thrust down, for example without either the left or right thruster kicking in a little.
You could try to increase the deadzone. I have done that once, but without getting into the game I couldn't tell you how much I've set it to now, perhaps 20 - 25%? The other thing you might be able to try is using a utility such as joystick curves, but I'm not sure that it will recognize the little analogue stick...
Not really sure what else to suggest. Some people suggest installing the Thrustmaster drivers (not TARGET software) as they have the option of setting a deadzone in them. Personally I just use the deadzone settings in ED's Controls bindings.
Thrusters I find manageable, if a little irritating at times. I can imagine the free camera might be even more of a problem, but I don't use that analogue stick for them.
Yes, it is. Thank you for your reply! I put more information but it is still waiting for moderator approval. Even with the thrustmaster drive the deadzone for the ministick is a toggle button. Can't do a fine setting. Thanks again!
First you want to install Thrustmaster's drivers (not the TARGET software) so that you can enable the deadzone for the mini-stick in joy.cpl:
In regular flight I have vertical and lateral thrust on the mini-stick and fore-aft thrust on the paddles and the throttle.
This lets me set a baseline thrust on the throttle but override it via the paddles and is great for combat.
I have a landing gear override that isolates the vertical thrusters onto the paddles and sets the mini-stick to fore-aft and port-starboard. This is great for both docking and high-G worlds, where you REALLY want to have the vertical thrusters isolated.
https://edrefcard.info/binds/gecozi
In regular flight I have vertical and lateral thrust on the mini-stick and fore-aft thrust on the paddles and the throttle.
This lets me set a baseline thrust on the throttle but override it via the paddles and is great for combat.
I have a landing gear override that isolates the vertical thrusters onto the paddles and sets the mini-stick to fore-aft and port-starboard. This is great for both docking and high-G worlds, where you REALLY want to have the vertical thrusters isolated.
https://edrefcard.info/binds/gecozi
Did you wind up using the Thrustmaster drivers for that, or something else?