Hardware & Technical Virpil WarBRD and Mongoos T50 Throttle are now up for pre-order.

Hi guy’s,

With regards to the screw heads stripping when changing the cams on the Virpil flight sticks, I think I may have found an out let, that will be able to supply suitable replacements.
The company is called ‘Accugroup’ there is a .co.uk address.
You guys that already have your Virpil sticks, & the offending screws, are better placed than me, when searching for replacements, as you know exactly what size, length etc is required.
If anybody does find a suitable replacement on the Accu site, I would be interested in the product code, so I can order the same.

Accu.co.uk

Hopefully ordering my Mongoos t50 tomorrow.
 
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Hi guy’s,

With regards to the screw heads stripping when changing the cams on the Virpil flight sticks, I think I may have found an out let, that will be able to supply suitable replacements.
The company is called ‘Accugroup’ there is a .co.uk address.
You guys that already have your Virpil sticks, & the offending screws, are better placed than me, when searching for replacements, as you know exactly what size, length etc is required.
If anybody does find a suitable replacement on the Accu site, I would be interested in the product code, so I can order the same.

Accu.co.uk

Hopefully ordering my Mongoos t50 tomorrow.


My guess would be this one: https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-countersunk-screws/7477-SHK-M3-10-A2
Not sure about the length though. But the manual says it's 2 x M3 screws that holds the cam in its place.
You should wait for someone who actually knows the length and if the one I suggested works before ordering anything. We can always hope that Virpil has replaced those philips screws for torx or allen ones.
 
My guess would be this one: https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-countersunk-screws/7477-SHK-M3-10-A2
Not sure about the length though. But the manual says it's 2 x M3 screws that holds the cam in its place.
You should wait for someone who actually knows the length and if the one I suggested works before ordering anything. We can always hope that Virpil has replaced those philips screws for torx or allen ones.


I was going to wait for one of the guys who already have the screws in hand, to see what would be the best replacement, before I order.
I don’t think Virpil have changed the screws yet, as Tortorden, has only just had his delivered, & he has noticed the screw issue.
I know Virpil are aware of the issue, as they recommend heating the screw heads before removal, maybe the next batch will have different screws.
I agree, torx or allen would be a better option.
 
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The screws in question are M4 × 7mm with flat or sunken heads.

The length varies a little, but inside of 0.5mm.
That's measured from tip to end, so including head.

If not counting the head. It's m4x5mm and countersunk.

This would possibly be my candidate.
https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-countersunk-screws/7485-SHK-M4-5-A2
Funnily I couldn't find that on their site but Google seemed to.
After 30 or so results for m3's.

I said m4 for a reason Google.
 
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well look at that, I wasn't even close. I must have misread the pdf completely.
Good thing that others with the actual gear in question comes and saves the day :).
 
Actually as they seem to measure the head as well on the spec sheet I would go with the m4 x 8mm.
https://www.accu.co.uk/en/hexalobular-countersunk-screws/7487-SHK-M4-8-A2

The shortest screw I have from the bag of spares included, is 7.65 mm, the rest seem closer to 7.8-7.9 mm
And I'm just using my old analog slide rule, not an actual micrometer, we don't need to be that precise :p

Head size also seem dead on.

I ordered a couple of dozen.
I did find similar here in Norway, but apparently they wanted something like £60 for shipping, accu total came to £13, well within tax limit.

Will still need to find a heat gun and an extractor for the shredded one though.

I'm a singel PC-nerd, so even though I have some mechanical training I don't actually need any tools.
In short I don't even own a blow dryer.

That said.

If I am changing cams before the extra cosmo sims arrive, it would be to switch the roll axis back to the lesser center detent.
Changing just the springs made a huge impact to ease, and of course adding an extension as would ease even more.
I don't necessarily mind the center detent, but I don't exactly love it either.
 
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I’ve just ordered my Virpil Mongoos t50 flight stick, & Monstertech chair mount.

I’m quietly hoping my Virpil throttle, will dispatched earlier than July 9th.

It’s always exciting when new kit is on the way
 

INaeem

Elite Greeter
If you've ordered recently (since the the new EU Store went live), you can claim a discount code for a future order. Please send an email to Virpil Support referencing the 'VPC PRE-ORDER AND FACTORY UPDATE' blog post and your order number/s. Take care and Elite!
 
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The screws from Accu.co arrived today and they should be a perfect fit.
Quick pics in the spoiler.
https://imgur.com/a/5p722tz

Original screw to the right, new torx screw on the left.
iT2ahtb.jpg


ds65sYK.jpg


rMk55fE.jpg

Again these are the M4 x 8mm Torx Countersunk screws.

Part no: SHK-M4-8-A2

Just did a quick measure with my old slide, and they seem to be a little more precise in length as well, the included seem to vary between 7.6mm to 7.9mm, measured a few randoms from the bag and they seem to be around 7.9-7.95mm two out of three where 7.95.

Certainly not important for these screws and their use, but precision is always nice.
 
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The screws from Accu.co arrived today and they should be a perfect fit.
Quick pics in the spoiler.
https://imgur.com/a/5p722tz

Original screw to the right, new torx screw on the left.

Again these are the M4 x 8mm Torx Countersunk screws.

Part no: SHK-M4-8-A2

Just did a quick measure with my old slide, and they seem to be a little more precise in length as well, the included seem to vary between 7.6mm to 7.9mm, measured a few randoms from the bag and they seem to be around 7.9-7.95mm two out of three where 7.95.

Certainly not important for these screws and their use, but precision is always nice.

That’s good to hear, I thought that they would have the required screws, I will be ordering the same.
Thanks for sharing Tortorden.
o7 Cmdr
 
well look at that, I wasn't even close. I must have misread the pdf completely.
Good thing that others with the actual gear in question comes and saves the day :).
I wouldn't discredit yourself to much.

I think I have found where in the pdf this was mentioned. And granted I was using Google translate to read the bullet point.
It looked to med that the person writing it, or themselves didn't know or hadn't decided what size screws they would go with.
It clearly mentions "M3 or M4" screws used.
Perhaps there is an m3 version out there?

I have yet to test the new ones, it would mean dismantling everything again and I figured I might as well keep that for when the new low resistance cams come and extension kits come.
 
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I wouldn't discredit yourself to much.

I think I have found where in the pdf this was mentioned. And granted I was using Google translate to read the bullet point.
It looked to med that the person writing it, or themselves didn't know or hadn't decided what size screws they would go with.
It clearly mentions "M3 or M4" screws used.
Perhaps there is an m3 version out there?

I have yet to test the new ones, it would mean dismantling everything again and I figured I might as well keep that for when the new low resistance cams come and extension kits come.

The pdf I was looking at was from the virpil eu site.
Either they have changed something at some point and not updated the pdf or they made it wrong from the start.
Well, however the case, we now got the right dimensions from you so all is good [up].
 
I’m having a few issues with my new Virpil stick.
On every pic I’ve seen of the calibration software, the top left box is green with the word ‘ready’ ,mine is just green.
Is that an issue? If so what’s causing it?
I’ve changed the springs to the light one’s, & now very happy, probably mIght not even change the cams.
I’ve noticed that I get quite a bit of travel in both X & Y axis before any movement is seen in game, then it seems all the movement comes at once, how do I adjust this?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Not sure what's up with that software.
When I first tried to do a calibration, as the video directed, it completely broke my stick.
Readout was flying everywhere.

But there seems to be two modes to it that I just stumbled on.
Double click the green button, this turns the main axis display to a spreadsheet like readout.
And using the calibration from that worked.
 
Not sure what's up with that software.
When I first tried to do a calibration, as the video directed, it completely broke my stick.
Readout was flying everywhere.

But there seems to be two modes to it that I just stumbled on.
Double click the green button, this turns the main axis display to a spreadsheet like readout.
And using the calibration from that worked.

Hi Tortorden,

Double clicked as you said &got that screen up. On the right of that that screen, can you tell me what dead zone limits you’ve set yours at please.
Mine are currently at 1 2 1 for min middle max on both x & y axis.
I just seem to be having massive dead zones, which is making flying difficult

Does your top left box show the word ‘ready’ or is it just green?

***All sorted, & extremely pleased with my new MT-50, what a fantastic precise stick. Can’t wait for my Virpil throttle to arrive now.
It’s just taking some adjustment, having no twist, & binding it to my existing throttle. I may have to get some peddles, anybody got any views on the VKB rudder peddles???***
 
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I haven't changed anything.

Just calibrated.
Just watched a YouTube of the vkb's and they seem very well made.
A bit odd with the up/down movement in my opinion.
But that is probably only because I'm used to the push pull type pedals.

I doubt you can go wrong with either these or the crosswinds, which I have on order, although the wait can be a killer.
Hope they ship late next month.

I am getting curious about the throttle as well.
But I really want a fully analog ministick on it.
 
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Still waiting for my Cosmosim cams but they got shipped last week so shouldn't be long.

Still need a way to get that screw out though.
 
Maybe try cutting a slot in the top of the screw with a dremel & use a normal flat head screwdriver to remove it.

I’m interested to know how you get on with the Cosmosim cams.

I’ve just ordered a dust cover for my MT-50 & throttle.
 
Use a Dremel with a disc cutter and cut a slot in the screw (make sure to make a nice deep cut), and use a big flat head screwdriver to take it out. Just make sure to cover the electronics with something so you don't fill them up with metal cuttings.
 
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