Did you not consider using the supplied plate to actually lock-out the X-axis? - That is what I have done with my unit used as a throttle.
P.S. Glad you seem pleased with it.
VKB 2 stage trigger question
- Thread starter Pville_Piper
- Start date
Did you not consider using the supplied plate to actually lock-out the X-axis? - That is what I have done with my unit used as a throttle.
P.S. Glad you seem pleased with it.
I did, but technically I still have the TWCS bound to some things. I might actually keep it for the SRV...You need to change your signature now.
I wanted to be able to use the X Axis for forward and reverse and the Y Axis for left and right thrust as well as the twist axis as a Z Axis (up and down). If I locked out the axis, then I would be just using it exactly like TWCS and there wouldn't be much point in buying it. With the TWCS I used the analog button on the face of the throttle for up and down, left and right thrust. This worked ok but the control was not precise, and the vertical axis needed a large dead zone to keep it from moving down when centered.
The one thing I noticed with the Omni throttle is that you really can see a big difference in using the up and down, left and right thrust when you are in the blue zone and when you are not. It is very noticeable. I had fun just spinning around an outpost last night and keeping the nose pointed at something, with the Omni throttle it is super easy. I got interdicted last night and face tanked an NPC, it was really easy to open up or close the distance with the full range throttle while running in reverse. It is just a blast to fly!
Has anyone programmed the LEDs? I was thinking it might be cool to have them a different color for analysis and combat modes...
I did, however most of it is of no real use for me at least. The VKB software can't read the journal files of course, so without any 3rd party sorcery, the LEDs can only show you stuff the stick itself does. I had a green light on when all axes of my OTA were centered. It turned off as soon as I moved the stick, but found it not really useful.
You may get it to show the cockpit mode experimenting with the SHIFT mode of the stick, but honestly, I don't know.
Well crap, I just figured out that the X and Y axis are opposite of how we do it on the machines... Looks like it back to experimenting again....
Found some cool things out today outlined in this post HOSAS throttle setup. I had the wrong clutch tightened, it seems that aircraft use their thrust vectors a little differently. I have removed the X Axis spring and tightened the X Axis damper and it works great as full range throttle.
Just got my VKB Gladiator NXT Evo SCG yesterday so wanted to say thanks to everyone who posted in this thread with lots of info and forced me helped me make an informed decision to upgrade my T.16000M*.
I've put a few hours into it and for me, I'm simply using the 2 stage trigger for primary and secondary fire. I'm finding this very useful when using a combination of beam and hit scan weapons. E.g. Thermal vent beam on 1 and pull again for modded shards on 2. I have a secondary button for fire 2 on my TWCS so I can still fire the shards without the beam and it allows me to keep a good grip on the SCG. I've not tried it properly yet but for an armed trade ship it could be handy with turreted beams and mc's as well. Pull once to get the beams firing then a "full" pull to get the mc's. Or the reverse; full pull on 2 and let go to get the turreted beams firing, then when the enemy shields have dropped you can fire the mc's on 1.
*My 2nd since Black Friday last year, the first twist axis died after just a week, this second is a replacement under warranty, but I'm not waiting for it to break again. I had planned to do the hall sensor upgrade mod since I'm still under warranty, confident I could "fix it" and reattach the old potentiometer if I screwed it up but then I read this thread and spent £230 instead of £10 so ... thanks, I think ...
I've put a few hours into it and for me, I'm simply using the 2 stage trigger for primary and secondary fire. I'm finding this very useful when using a combination of beam and hit scan weapons. E.g. Thermal vent beam on 1 and pull again for modded shards on 2. I have a secondary button for fire 2 on my TWCS so I can still fire the shards without the beam and it allows me to keep a good grip on the SCG. I've not tried it properly yet but for an armed trade ship it could be handy with turreted beams and mc's as well. Pull once to get the beams firing then a "full" pull to get the mc's. Or the reverse; full pull on 2 and let go to get the turreted beams firing, then when the enemy shields have dropped you can fire the mc's on 1.
*My 2nd since Black Friday last year, the first twist axis died after just a week, this second is a replacement under warranty, but I'm not waiting for it to break again. I had planned to do the hall sensor upgrade mod since I'm still under warranty, confident I could "fix it" and reattach the old potentiometer if I screwed it up but then I read this thread and spent £230 instead of £10 so ... thanks, I think ...
Yep, that's what I use, too. My other secondary fire is on A2.
FWIW, usually you can fix it more or less with some good cleaning agent, this video shows how. I wouldn't use WD-40 like in the video, I've had better results with Kontakt 61. The axis shouldn't give you any trouble for another year or so, after which you will have to do it again. Of course, since you've upgraded to the Nxt Evo, this is now rather useless information.
Yep, that's what I use, too. My other secondary fire is on A2.
FWIW, usually you can fix it more or less with some good cleaning agent, this video shows how. I wouldn't use WD-40 like in the video, I've had better results with Kontakt 61. The axis shouldn't give you any trouble for another year or so, after which you will have to do it again. Of course, since you've upgraded to the Nxt Evo, this is now rather useless information.
WD-40 do an electrical contact cleaning product too. I have used it with no issues and can only say it is just as good as trichloroethylene (used for years in an earlier career) but without the problems that comes from that. It is unfortunate that the brand name overpowers their various products - *not all WD-40 cans contain WD-40 ... LOL
* See the range here:
WD-40 Specialist Archives
WD-40 Specialist - High performance lubricants, greasers, degreasers and cleaners for use in industrial, auto & trade environments.
wd40.co.uk
Thanks for the links and info. I actually did bear with it (the T.16000m) for a couple of months, cleaning and spraying, but it became a daily routine rather than a weekly or even monthly one very quickly (less than 3 months). In the end I took it back to the store a few weeks ago, and in fairness the new one has been faultless. But since I payed £75 for both the joystick and throttle during black friday I don't feel out of pocket since I still really like the throttle which usually costs around £80 on its own. And the SCG is on a whole other level so, worth it imo. I'll probably still "fix" the T.16000m at some point, maybe let my son use it.
Welcome to the club! I can't believe how much I love my omni throttle, the only regret is this I didn't replace my T1600m as well.* I've had good lunch with mine, it's several years old, but I don't use the twist axis and use rudder pedals instead.
*I've got a drive-in job to Lexington, KY and I might be able to excess milage and put it to the side for an EVO...
I posted this on the Discord page https://discord.com/channels/1009945611023429804/1019343298806157332/1081625263739260949
Sorry, I have no idea. I don't see any "FA" button or box either. The pdf manual mentions this as well on page 90:
I'm happy enough to understand how to remap buttons. They do have an official support forum:
VKB-SIM - In English
forum.vkb-sim.pro
The FA is missing, and someone on the forums said that it didn't matter. I change the DR rate on the global, the wave peak changes, but the button does not do anything, I can see the button change state in the test program as well.Sorry, I have no idea. I don't see any "FA" button or box either. The pdf manual mentions this as well on page 90:
I'm happy enough to understand how to remap buttons. They do have an official support forum:
VKB-SIM - In English
@Lhorndra I figured it out, I confused the button box number with the actual button number. Once I figured that out, it worked fine. Seems to help, particularly when landing with the z rotation axis.
I'll be out of town til the end of the week, so we'll see if it helps out, I did try a couple of landing at an outpost, seemed better. Next, I want to have an LED blink or turn on when the action is enabled.
I'll be out of town til the end of the week, so we'll see if it helps out, I did try a couple of landing at an outpost, seemed better. Next, I want to have an LED blink or turn on when the action is enabled.
@Lhorndra I figured out how to have the large LED blink 2 colors when I'm in double rate mode. Also if you program 2 buttons with the double rate it will multiply the effect.
Once you figure out a few things the software isn't to bad to work with. Been playing around with the 2 axis hat switch to aim the SRVs Turret, with the double rate function it shows promise.
Overall, I'm really loving my Omni Throttle, it's such a great piece of kit!
I will be pulling the trigger on a Gladiator Evo premium very soon. Super excited to get one!
Once you figure out a few things the software isn't to bad to work with. Been playing around with the 2 axis hat switch to aim the SRVs Turret, with the double rate function it shows promise.
Overall, I'm really loving my Omni Throttle, it's such a great piece of kit!
I will be pulling the trigger on a Gladiator Evo premium very soon. Super excited to get one!
Sine I've got my new VKB Omni Throttle I've been struggling with landings. Unlearning 6 years of muscle memory can be daunting...
I figured out how to, with a button press, limit the output of one or more axis which helps a lot in preventing overshoot.
But something was still not right. I noticed that I had a tendency to rotate my twist axis in the opposite direction of what I programed. I was twisting it counter-clockwise to go down instead of up. So I figured I'd try inverting the axis and see what happens.
Lo and behold, not only was that more natural to me, but by twisting the axis counter-clockwise I also had Finer control while moving the X and Y axis to positioning the ship! Immediately my landings improved greatly. Now I feel like I only have to learn the stick and not fight the muscle memory.
My Gladiator pro should be here soon so I I'm looking forward to relearning a few things with that!
I figured out how to, with a button press, limit the output of one or more axis which helps a lot in preventing overshoot.
But something was still not right. I noticed that I had a tendency to rotate my twist axis in the opposite direction of what I programed. I was twisting it counter-clockwise to go down instead of up. So I figured I'd try inverting the axis and see what happens.
Lo and behold, not only was that more natural to me, but by twisting the axis counter-clockwise I also had Finer control while moving the X and Y axis to positioning the ship! Immediately my landings improved greatly. Now I feel like I only have to learn the stick and not fight the muscle memory.
My Gladiator pro should be here soon so I I'm looking forward to relearning a few things with that!
On Saturday morning, I bit the bullet and finally got rid of the TWCS throttle... It had to be ripped off like a stuck-on Band-Aid, I just unplugged it and redid my bindings. Pretty easy to do actually, I put the settings to empty and added the joystick, throttle and mouse settings to a new custom bindings file. I did the on-foot section as mouse and keyboard because that is what I use and added in the sticks as needed. All in all, worked out pretty well. I like that I have empty spaces in the bindings file and not a bunch of odd bindings that I don't know what they are, never use and every time I go to bind something I get popup about a conflict with some other binding. I might do it again when my right-hand Gladiator EVO gets here, it was really easy and didn't take too much time. On the plus side, my HCS Voice Attack settings are all back and ready to go.
On Sunday, I installed some panduit wireways under my desk, re-routed all of my electrical cables and mounted a powered 4 port USB C hub under the desk. A much cleaner installation now without the spaghetti wiring running hither and yon... I'll post some new pictures after I get the new Gladiator mounted.
The only things that are still hanging in the air is what to do about my mouse and Razer Orbweaver. When I sit at the desck and play other games, these need to be on the desktop, but, because the HOSAS mounts push me away from the desk, causing me to lean forward for the on-foot Odyssey gameplay. I bought a cheap mouse tray that swivels around and mounts to the front of the desk, works OK for the mouse, but it felt like it flexed too much when I put the Orbweaver on it. I had thought to make an 8"x8" shelf to screw to my throttle mount, or buying a new mount for it, but I will wait and see when the new stick gets here. I may just run a shelf between them.
On Sunday, I installed some panduit wireways under my desk, re-routed all of my electrical cables and mounted a powered 4 port USB C hub under the desk. A much cleaner installation now without the spaghetti wiring running hither and yon... I'll post some new pictures after I get the new Gladiator mounted.
The only things that are still hanging in the air is what to do about my mouse and Razer Orbweaver. When I sit at the desck and play other games, these need to be on the desktop, but, because the HOSAS mounts push me away from the desk, causing me to lean forward for the on-foot Odyssey gameplay. I bought a cheap mouse tray that swivels around and mounts to the front of the desk, works OK for the mouse, but it felt like it flexed too much when I put the Orbweaver on it. I had thought to make an 8"x8" shelf to screw to my throttle mount, or buying a new mount for it, but I will wait and see when the new stick gets here. I may just run a shelf between them.
I’m currently testing a kind of “HOSAM” setup for on-foot stuff. My left hand is on the VKB OTA, my right on my mouse. It’s really comfortable for FSS, DSS and exobiology, but I haven’t done any kind of FPS combat with that combination yet.
Yeah, that’s tricky. I use table mounts by Monstertech together with their mouse extension. It’s definitely pricey, but worth it for me. The best thing is: I can stow away everything in seconds when I want to work at my desk, and vice versa.