Community Event / Creation DIY Controller and Throttle

More work has been done.

I found the stability of the monitor setup a little thin, so I added a stabilisation bar with a couple of cross braces. Also note the glare of the led strip that I blatantly draped over the chair to see the effect. The leds should be a quick install.

IMG_2532.jpg

But due to the rebuild of the monitor bracket i need to come up with a new way to mount the keyboard.

I took the opportunity to add some extra screw holes in the bracket while it was out, so adding the keyboard bracket should be a trifle now.
 
Todo List? What todo list?

1. mount backlit front switch panel under monitors
2. apply engraving to side console panels
3. reinforce structure
4. build panel backlighting and connect
5. document (photos, diagrams) for an article
6. (stretch goal) include my little 'rumble pack' in the controls (finished but no mounting points)
7. (stretch goal) connect the switch panel

Done!

Total time taken: July 17, 2015 - November 29, 2015 = 4 months and 13 days or 136 days, or 11,750,400 seconds. 3264 hours. Or 37.26% of 2015. Good thing I actually (on average) only worked one hour per day on this project. Even then, it is >120 hours of work.

Finishing touches:
- paint it black
- tidy up cables with tiewraps and short power cables
- play Elite
- design new panels with new switches when Horizons gets released.

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Thank you for following my progress. It was very motivational seeing your compliments and feedback :D I know I'm totally doing this for myself, not for marketing a product, I just wanted to share my ideas. I still need to write up a descent summary to put on my blog though. I may want to quote some of your comments, lol.
 
Looks simply beautiful and really comes together here.
It is an impressive rig and has motivated me as well.
I enjoy seeing and reading the progress made on the builds.
It keeps me going and gives me more ideas than I can possibly do.

Can't wait to see what Horizon "projects" come to pass...:cool:

Good job Cat!
 
Thanks, Battle!

On the topic of Horizon, i'll just make a second seat for the SRV so I can physically change seats for the different vehicles!
 
Great Cataclysim.. Looks so super!

I bought the 15.00 game.. and today ordered Horizons with the 15 dollar rebate. That left me 15 bucks to put into a Voice pack that I spent most of the day installing. Wow.. thank goodness for the Vids on how to do it. I bought the HCS ASTRA. Had to do some re configuring for my Thrustmaster 16000. But got er done. Grin.

Buzz
 
Greetings CMDR,

I subscribed to the forum to congratulate you on your achievements. You, sir, are completely crazy, but in a good way. /thumbs_up

I just got into flying sims again myself (after playing the heck out of some very old games in the very distant, even foggy past - MS FS II (on floppies!), Wing Commander 1-2 ;) and some "??? of the Luftwaffe" game whose name escapes me, when they were state of the art, respectively). I borrowed myself a cheap T.Flight HOTAS from a friend and got quite hooked on the concept (instead of mouse+keyboard), as you might imagine.

After having done a lot of research on available HOTAS products I came to the conclusion that it's DIY for me as well, though I will not have the time to do such a superb solution as you. The part that held me up for the longest time now was trying to figure out how to do the 2-axis gimbal setup, but that's the piece I'll just unashamedly rip out of your blog and do it exactly like that. You wrote that you are unhappy with the centering. Did you find a better solution? Did you think about doing 4 springs (two on each axis, pulling sideways) instead of the one big center spring? Or maybe a combination of the two?

Thanks again for your inspirational work and the effort in sharing it.
 
Greetings CMDR,

I subscribed to the forum to congratulate you on your achievements. You, sir, are completely crazy, but in a good way. /thumbs_up
Thank you! I've heard that one a lot lately (on the subject of crazy)
You wrote that you are unhappy with the centering. Did you find a better solution? Did you think about doing 4 springs (two on each axis, pulling sideways) instead of the one big center spring? Or maybe a combination of the two?
The problem with having 2 springs on both sides of a single axis is that the springs never have the same 'springiness' so stable and reliable centering becomes an issue. My approach (which I blatantly ripped of from another design on the internet) has only one spring and uses a mechanical solution. But things can be improved, and so did i. If you look at the design of my rudder controller this uses a single bracket and spring for centering the axis. By minifying this and putting two of them on the gimbal it results into something like this:

6493349581_60ee943294.jpg

There are many variations on this design, but they all come down on the same thing. If i were to upgrade the joysticks I would certainly take this approach (or better). One of the benefits is that the construction can easily be made from metal, and thus be solid for life. Although I must say the 3D-printed parts I now use are holding out better than I expected.
 
I too wish to express my amazement at your design and accomplishments! Thank you for sharing.

Although I must say the 3D-printed parts I now use are holding out better than I expected.

Is there any chance that you might share your 3D-print object files so that those of us that are not skilled in the art of CAD might enadeavor to replicate your success? I've not had much luck locating a decent flight-stick grip that can be easily 3D printed...

Also, you mentioned (here or your blog, I don't remember) that you used a thumbstick from an xbox controller. Since you are using an arduino, could the arduino joystick hardware also be used? Or was your choice guided by limited space in the grip?
 
Is there any chance that you might share your 3D-print object files so that those of us that are not skilled in the art of CAD might enadeavor to replicate your success? I've not had much luck locating a decent flight-stick grip that can be easily 3D printed...
I'm working on a final documentation article for the entire project. The web page will most likely include all designs, 3d models, PCB design and lasercut panel designs. But for now, the repository is private.
Also, you mentioned (here or your blog, I don't remember) that you used a thumbstick from an xbox controller. Since you are using an arduino, could the arduino joystick hardware also be used? Or was your choice guided by limited space in the grip?
The Xbox thumbstick was used in the grip housing as an additional mouse cursor (supplementary to the joystick). I only used the raw potmeter because that's a nobrainer to use. It is no bigger than 1 cubic cm. You can get a replacement X/Y analog sensor for $1 on EBay. I'm not sure what you mean with 'the arduino joystick hardware'.
 
I'm working on a final documentation article for the entire project. The web page will most likely include all designs, 3d models, PCB design and lasercut panel designs. But for now, the repository is private.

You can get a replacement X/Y analog sensor for $1 on EBay.

Ah, I see! I think we're talking about the same thing, an X/Y analog sensor. I see pics of such things pop up when I search online for arduino joystick.

I'm contemplating following in your footsteps and designing a custom flightstick, as I have a Saitek X52, but the thing shocks me every so often when I use it, and the pinky switch is malfunctioning. I have a couple of arduino nanos kicking around not being used, and I stumbled on your project while searching for exactly that, using an arduino as a joystick. So I figured, why not?

Thanks again for the wonderful project!
 
By minifying this and putting two of them on the gimbal it results into something like this:

That looks like a wicked design indeed, and it's hard to see any drawback. Manufacturing it seems pretty straightforward as well, since there are few critical dimensions. The devil is in the details, probably, but it seems like you could just have a go at it and replace individual parts if something does not work out.

There are many variations on this design,

Is there a name for this design, I mean is it well known in the "industry"? Or did some genius come up with it and it's now going on in the "diy throttle community"?
 
I have a couple of arduino nanos kicking around not being used, and I stumbled on your project while searching for exactly that, using an arduino as a joystick. So I figured, why not?
!
Nano's aren't going to cut it. You need a Leonardo or SparkFun Pro Micro (or clone) for the Atmega32u4 for the USB HID support so the Arduino can act as a proper joystick. They're only $2.50 on Ebay. Compared to the cost of the entire setup that's 0.0001%
 
Is there a name for this design, I mean is it well known in the "industry"? Or did some genius come up with it and it's now going on in the "diy throttle community"?
No idea, i imagine they have been iterating on a good gimbal design for ages in the aircraft industry. Just google "joystick gimbal design" and draw your own conclusion.
 
Holy freaking jesus dude...
That work is impressive to say the least, and the result feels professional grade...
I just finished reading this whole thread, and visited your site (simplicate), i got to say i'm just speechless :eek:

I stumbled upon this thread by looking over some ideas for a custom space-sim cockpit, and especially because thinking about making a home-made lefty joystick to control attitude thrusters and some button panel (to go for precise FA-Off thruster control instead of hat-induced ON/OFF behavior).

Didn't decide yet if it would be a good idea, as i already tried with an old, really "tired" CyborgEvoForce along side a TM Warthog.
At the moment i discarded that control setup because of the great difference of force to apply on the stick for it to move.
Also because of having to switch hand between throttle and stick in combat situations may not be intuitive.

Got a question for ya : how do you "specify" / control the force needed to move the joystick in your latest hall effect setup ?
(or, how did you choose the centering spring ?)

P.S. : sorry if some sentence don't make sense, not a native English and not sure about the meaning of some of them.
 
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Holy freaking jesus dude...
That work is impressive to say the least, and the result feels professional grade...
I just finished reading this whole thread, and visited your site (simplicate), i got to say i'm just speechless :eek:
Thanks!
Got a question for ya : how do you "specify" / control the force needed to move the joystick in your latest hall effect setup ?
(or, how did you choose the centering spring ?)
I chose the centering spring for the X/Y stick before I designed the component. The spring sits on an adjustable tube that is really tight so I can adjust the tension by moving the part up or down. The stick itself doesn't give any resistance, the spring just returns it to the middle if I let go. I really didn't give it that much thought to be honest. It looks much tougher than it actually is :D
 
I chose the centering spring for the X/Y stick before I designed the component. The spring sits on an adjustable tube that is really tight so I can adjust the tension by moving the part up or down. The stick itself doesn't give any resistance, the spring just returns it to the middle if I let go. I really didn't give it that much thought to be honest. It looks much tougher than it actually is :D

So you can adjust spring preload with some kind of screw, kinda like motorbike suspension, right?
That's some smart design!

Actually I showed the whole cockpit to my boss, he didn't believed me when I said everything beside the seat itself and the pc/monitor was home-made.
I had to show him the pictures of the joy/throttle wip.

I really love the leather insert, that's a nice touch and it feels high grade, kinda like an expensive car's wheel leather coverage :)
And the color give an interesting contrast with the black, clean finish of your panels and joy/throttle Base.

Another question for you : the hats on joy/throttle feels kinda "rubbish", as in the surface quality is not as clean and smooth as Base and button panel front bezel.
Is it because of the 3D printing?
 
So you can adjust spring preload with some kind of screw, kinda like motorbike suspension, right?
That's some smart design!
no screw, nothing designed as such, just good luck and friction.
Another question for you : the hats on joy/throttle feels kinda "rubbish", as in the surface quality is not as clean and smooth as Base and button panel front bezel.
Is it because of the 3D printing?
Yes it looks crap. But the rough surface pattern gives some nice friction to the button. They were indeed 3D-printed. In fact they were rough prototype prints, at about 0.3mm scale instead of the 0.075 scale my printer can do. I never bothered to sand them down because they fit quite nicely. I actually forgot about redoing them, thank you for reminding me!
 
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