Sidechat

What a bummer WWD 2025 is.
3 episodes all set in very late cretaceous NA about ceratopsian being hunted by tyrannosaur species.

Im getting tired of constant focus on late cretaceous. I need something fresh. Surviving Earth must save us. Cant wait to see suminia and carboniferous forest.
It was also confirmed that there will be a episode with spinosaurus, and no Triassic segment at all, with NGL is kinda disapointing
 
My hot take for dinosaur documentaries is that people treat the late Cretaceous like how Game Freak treats gen 1 of Pokémon, or how Games Workshop treats Space Marines.

Obviously they are the most popular, and for good reason. However the moment you really get into the series/ topic the sooner you get sick of constantly seeing it all the time!
Yeah, i mean i totally understand why they do it. But these types of documentaries are always the perfect opportunity to put the spotlight on some lesser known animals.
Which is something i really liked about prehistoric planet for example.

I guess not having one episode set in hell creek (apperently) is already nice.
 
Confirmed episodes are:
  • Lusotitan - Portugal
  • Utahraptor - Utah
  • Spinosaurus - Morocco
  • Pachyrhinosaurus - Alberta
  • Albertosaurus - Alberta
  • Triceratops - Montana

NGL, but original WWD episode locations were way more interesting and diverse than this.

Besides based on this im not really sure what kind of animal is supposed to look different than we are used to. Apparently series will feature design based on unreleased paper, which completely change image of said species. They are either trying to hype Spinosaurus or there is for real something bizzare out there.
 
Last edited:
Confirmed episodes are:
  • Lusotitan - Portugal
  • Utahraptor - Utah
  • Spinosaurus - Morocco
  • Pachyrhinosaurus - Alberta
  • Albertosaurus - Alberta
  • Triceratops - Montana

NGL, but original WWD episode locations were way more interesting and diverse than this.
Oh than we do get hell creek.

And yeah i agree. The original episodes had a great mix of time periodes and even multiple episodes with a focus on the non-dinosaur animals of the mesozoic.
 
Confirmed episodes are:
  • Lusotitan - Portugal
  • Utahraptor - Utah
  • Spinosaurus - Morocco
  • Pachyrhinosaurus - Alberta
  • Albertosaurus - Alberta
  • Triceratops - Montana
Only one Jurassic segment is kinda boring, considering WWD has a history with the period, plus the fact the last time early jurassic was show in a documentary was in WDRA, and i don't really think this episode can top the greatness that was the Broken jaw episode on Dinosaur revolution (but looking at the bright side, at least it isn't Morrison again).

About the rest, the perspective of a new, top accurate spino in a paleo media is very promissing, despite the fact the Utahraptor episode is by far my most Hyped ep, for reasons. Edit: wonder if they will kept the color scheme from the original Utah in this remake.

The last three sounds like more of the same, but we will see.
 
Last edited:
Only one Jurassic segment is kinda boring, considering WWD has a history with the period, plus the fact the last time early jurassic was show in a documentary was in WDRA, and i don't really think this episode can top the greatness that was the Broken jaw episode on Dinosaur revolution (but looking at the bright side, at least it isn't Morrison again).

About the rest, the perspective of a new, top accurate spino in a paleo media is very promissing, despite the fact the Utahraptor episode is by far my most Hyped ep, for reasons. Edit: wonder if they will kept the color scheme from the original Utah in this remake.

The last three sounds like more of the same, but we will see.
Im more curious about how much the Utahraptor project ( big slap of rock encasing featuring a bunch of compelte individuals of various ages it seems that a group of researchers are working on ) is gonna influence the design. As that research paints the animal as an absolute brawler instead of essentially a scaled up deinonychus.
 
It's honestly amazing how having a kid has changed me.

Not to be a callous ahole, but before I had a kid I wasn't often moved by stories of children hurting. Like I recognised that it was especially heinous but it didn't evoke a particular emotional response in me. I've had a kid for three years now, and now stories of kids being hurt or neglected fully yanks on my heartstrings. I just read an anecdote from a woman whose older sister left her six year old in a hotel room alone for three days because she was on a bender. The kid rang the police on the third day because he was hungry.

Funnily enough, I'm often plagued by nightmares and intrusive thoughts about my son being alone with no help, so it hit me especially hard. Bizarre, or, maybe not bizarre, but certainly a striking evolution of my own emotional state.

Kids are just so innocent. Like even if you don't especially like children or want children of your own, you can't deny that. Everything wrong with any kid is a result of negative external influence; they're never innately bad. All they want is support and love, and it's gut-wrenching when you hear about kids who are starved of those basic things.
 
Not to be a callous ahole, but before I had a kid I wasn't often moved by stories of children hurting. Like I recognised that it was especially heinous but it didn't evoke a particular emotional response in me. I've had a kid for three years now, and now stories of kids being hurt or neglected fully yanks on my heartstrings.
I remember my dad telling me this happened to him too, and then he basically said if I had kids it would happen to me as well.
 
Hey, I need help. I'm not very technically savvy. I'm trying to start a YouTube channel for my church. It said that I need 50 subscribers to livestream from my phone. I have the subs, but I still can't livestream. Can someone help?
 
So there is many conflicting results for this so I am asking you guys. While it will probably be a few years before I get it I have to ask a few questions about the northern blue-tongue skink (which I will dub the Nbts), first of all I heard a mix of topsoil and play sand is good for them, do y'all agree, I know there might be better. second of all what is the lighting and uvb recommendations, and I don't just mean brands but types of bulbs and placement, some images of how you light your Nbts tank (or a reptile that requires similar lighting). third should I buy thermostats for the hot and cool side of the tank. fourth how often should I put calcium without vitamin D and calcium with vitamin D on food and how often should I feed in general, fifth. should I get a plant for the tank, like a spineless catus, or could it mess it up. sixth, if it is getting cold in the hot side of the tank (likely due to cold weather) what would y'all recommend to warm it up, finally do breaded dragon vest work for them and if they do should I bring them out during warm weather.

Also I have a really bad attention spand and struggled to understand some of the stuff said in the Nbts care guide so do yall have suggestions for "Nbts care for dummies" kinda guide.

Thanks in advance
 
Last edited:
Without getting TOO much into the politics of things as per the forum's rules - but I still think community is critical in times like this - my fellow Americans, is everyone okay?
I can safely say I'm not, but am finding ways to hold spaces for others.
I teamed up with another NYC based comedian and we'll be hosting a comedy charity show next month in benefit of Generation Q, a non-profit which provides aid, counseling, and academic opportunities to LGTB+ teens and young adults, through the Queens Community House.
I'll be certain to share more details if anyone is interested in learning more!
Thinking of you all, and hoping DLC 19 can provide some joy to the current joyless.
This is so great @TheDuckKnight . A true knight you are indeed 🧡
I have cousins in the US who are queer and trans...I am watching the news with increasing anxiety every day. Even though it was clear that this would be coming, it's still oh so shocking to see.
It's going to be a time where communities need to come together, love and protect each other, and do what they can and must to stay sane and optimistic.
Thinking of you too and thank goodness for the escapism of games when we need them!
FTR I'm queer but straight-passing as I am hetero married. I am a dual UK-US citizen. It's so weird to think how many more freedoms I have in the UK vs the so-called "land of the free"...and that is truer now than it ever has been before in my lifetime.
 
Last edited:
So there is many conflicting results for this so I am asking you guys. While it will probably be a few years before I get it I have to ask a few questions about the northern blue-tongue skink (which I will dub the Nbts), first of all I heard a mix of topsoil and play sand is good for them, do y'all agree, I know there might be better. second of all what is the lighting and uvb recommendations, and I don't just mean brands but types of bulbs and placement, some images of how you light your Nbts tank (or a reptile that requires similar lighting). third should I buy thermostats for the hot and cool side of the tank. fourth how often should I put calcium without vitamin D and calcium with vitamin D on food and how often should I feed in general, fifth. should I get a plant for the tank, like a spineless catus, or could it mess it up. sixth, if it is getting cold in the hot side of the tank (likely due to cold weather) what would y'all recommend to warm it up, finally do breaded dragon vest work for them and if they do should I bring them out during warm weather.

Also I have a really bad attention spand and struggled to understand some of the stuff said in the Nbts care guide so do yall have suggestions for "Nbts care for dummies" kinda guide.

Thanks in advance
I haven't kept northern blue tongues in my personal collection, but I have worked with them!

Yes, topsoil and play sand works great! It's the base for my bioactive arid mix. Depending on your house's ambient humidity, you may need to add some sphagnum moss. I like adding orchid or coconut bark for aeration too, especially if the the ratio of sand is above 40%, but I've had success without it.

This is the lighting chart I've used in the past both personally and professionally for these guys and reptiles with similar requirements. It's from Arcadia Reptile.
529f7ggr.png

It's hard for me to give exact recommendations. I'll always recommend T5 bulbs since they have newer technology and are safer/more reliable. The Zoo Med 5.0 and 10.0 are pretty much interchangeable with the Arcadia 6% and 10% respectively. They should be able to escape direct exposure from UVB, so aim for a bulb that's 2/3s the length of the enclosure. I don't know if you're looking for heating suggestions, but I love halogen flood lamps. Depending on the distance between the top of the enclosure and your basking spot+ your ambient house temp, I'd say something like a 50 or 80 watts should be good. I'm not the biggest fan of heating pads, especially for diurnal reptiles. I love a rock or slate tiles for their basking spot so they can get belly heat too.

Since your skink with have exposure to UVB, they'll be able to synthesize pretty much all the D3 they need. So I'd dust with without D3 most of the time, with vitamin with d3 monthly. If you were concerned though, it wouldn't harm anything to dust with d3 monthly as well. I don't know about baby juvenile skinks, but I feed an adult twice a week, but I know some skink keepers feed weekly.

As far as plants go, skinks tend to burrow so they may be dug up. If you plant the plants in pots and then bury them, you may be able to make it work. Aloe vera is my favorite plant for arid tanks. I'd definitely recommend adding bark chips for soil creation if you decide to use live plants. You can add horticulture charcoal or worm castings in your soil mix to support plant health if you want to, but it's not necessary (like 5% each).

Ceramic heat emitters are a great way to add extra heat without light (you can use them at night too!). You can find them at wattages as low as 25.

I don't have experience with sweaters or vests for reptiles so I can't say. But I can say that since they are cold-blooded they might slow down how fast they lose heat, but they aren't going to keep them warm the same way a mammal would. But I take my reptiles out when temps are 70-80 F.

I hope this helps! This care guide pretty much aligns with what I was taught in regards to nbt skink care: https://reptifiles.com/blue-tongue-skink-care/
 
I haven't kept northern blue tongues in my personal collection, but I have worked with them!

Yes, topsoil and play sand works great! It's the base for my bioactive arid mix. Depending on your house's ambient humidity, you may need to add some sphagnum moss. I like adding orchid or coconut bark for aeration too, especially if the the ratio of sand is above 40%, but I've had success without it.

This is the lighting chart I've used in the past both personally and professionally for these guys and reptiles with similar requirements. It's from Arcadia Reptile.
View attachment 416253
It's hard for me to give exact recommendations. I'll always recommend T5 bulbs since they have newer technology and are safer/more reliable. The Zoo Med 5.0 and 10.0 are pretty much interchangeable with the Arcadia 6% and 10% respectively. They should be able to escape direct exposure from UVB, so aim for a bulb that's 2/3s the length of the enclosure. I don't know if you're looking for heating suggestions, but I love halogen flood lamps. Depending on the distance between the top of the enclosure and your basking spot+ your ambient house temp, I'd say something like a 50 or 80 watts should be good. I'm not the biggest fan of heating pads, especially for diurnal reptiles. I love a rock or slate tiles for their basking spot so they can get belly heat too.

Since your skink with have exposure to UVB, they'll be able to synthesize pretty much all the D3 they need. So I'd dust with without D3 most of the time, with vitamin with d3 monthly. If you were concerned though, it wouldn't harm anything to dust with d3 monthly as well. I don't know about baby juvenile skinks, but I feed an adult twice a week, but I know some skink keepers feed weekly.

As far as plants go, skinks tend to burrow so they may be dug up. If you plant the plants in pots and then bury them, you may be able to make it work. Aloe vera is my favorite plant for arid tanks. I'd definitely recommend adding bark chips for soil creation if you decide to use live plants. You can add horticulture charcoal or worm castings in your soil mix to support plant health if you want to, but it's not necessary (like 5% each).

Ceramic heat emitters are a great way to add extra heat without light (you can use them at night too!). You can find them at wattages as low as 25.

I don't have experience with sweaters or vests for reptiles so I can't say. But I can say that since they are cold-blooded they might slow down how fast they lose heat, but they aren't going to keep them warm the same way a mammal would. But I take my reptiles out when temps are 70-80 F.

I hope this helps! This care guide pretty much aligns with what I was taught in regards to nbt skink care: https://reptifiles.com/blue-tongue-skink-care/
Thanks for the info, I am going to add little more to the questions, so what blend of soil, sand, moss, etc, for example like 20% sand and 80% topsoil or whatever, second how long should the uvb lamp be, for example if my tank is 4x2x2 (which it should be) should it cover about 3 feet of the tank or 2 feet of the tank, last when I said Bearded dragon harness I ment for walking them outside
Screenshot_20250203_173118_YouTube.jpg

I just thought that on hot days I could take him outside and let him soak up some natural uv rays but did not want to take the risk if not using a leash, I know there slow but still. Anyway thanks for the advice.
 
So there is many conflicting results for this so I am asking you guys. While it will probably be a few years before I get it I have to ask a few questions about the northern blue-tongue skink (which I will dub the Nbts), first of all I heard a mix of topsoil and play sand is good for them, do y'all agree, I know there might be better. second of all what is the lighting and uvb recommendations, and I don't just mean brands but types of bulbs and placement, some images of how you light your Nbts tank (or a reptile that requires similar lighting). third should I buy thermostats for the hot and cool side of the tank. fourth how often should I put calcium without vitamin D and calcium with vitamin D on food and how often should I feed in general, fifth. should I get a plant for the tank, like a spineless catus, or could it mess it up. sixth, if it is getting cold in the hot side of the tank (likely due to cold weather) what would y'all recommend to warm it up, finally do breaded dragon vest work for them and if they do should I bring them out during warm weather.

Also I have a really bad attention spand and struggled to understand some of the stuff said in the Nbts care guide so do yall have suggestions for "Nbts care for dummies" kinda guide.

Thanks in advance
I do keep a merauke blue tongue, but their care is very similar.

1. Topsoil and sand mix is what most people seem to use for northerns and lizards with similar care like beared dragons. Personally i use a mix of mostly topsoil, bit of sand, spagnum moss and bark chips with leaf litter on top. Keeps the humidity up, allows for digging and holds the burrows and the leaf litter allows the isopod clean up crew to not be all gobbled up by the skink. But northerns dont need as high humidity as meraukes, so id probably just keep to topsoil+sand and either use the moss only in one corner so the overall humidity stays lower but they still have a more moist area to go to for shedding. In any case an important thing is to only use organic soil without any fertalizers or anything like that.

2. As Eletan said its hard to give an exact recommedation as what is needed can vary widely with enclosure style and size and the climate of your house and area. I keep mine in a 150x60x60cm wooden terrarium and use the 24W 12% T5 and an 80W deep heat projector from Arcadia and a led bar for visible light. But again that can vary for you, the isolation of the wooden terrarium and the fact that i have multiple terrariums which keep my room warmer than average works towards my advantage here.

3. A thermostat (thermostat!, not thermometer, although that one is important too) is definetly an absolute must have. Id recommed one that has a dimming function so it can lower the power of the heater and keep it steady and consistent instead of turning the lamp on and off all the time. Helps with the electricity cost, longevity of the heating element and its just nice for the animal to always have the ideal temperature. Although not every type of heater works with this dimming function ive learned.
As for the placement id just set one up for the hot spot and get myself a temperature gun to check the rest of the enclosure.

4. You dont need to suplement vitamin d3 if you have uvb lighting in your enclosure, the lizard will regulate that naturally if you provide uvb lighting. You can suplement it every now and again to be on the safe side like once a month, but definetly dont overdo it as thats harmfull.
Regularly suplementing with calcium and multivitamin is still essential tho.
How often you feed your bts depends on how old it is, hatchlings should be feed pretty much every day and than slow down the feeding as they grow up. I feed my adult one once a week.

5. Plants in bluetongue enclosures, its a pain ngl. They are natural burrowers so they tend to dig up and kill most plants in there enclosure eventually if you just plant it right in there. You can try to put them in pots or fabric bags to protect them. If you intend to build a background in your terrarium you could try to incorporate some elevated planters to keep the plants out of the lizards reach.

6. If the warm side is getting to cold you need to use a stronger heating element, no real way around it.

7. Cant say that i ever tried, but just looks wise id say that probably dont really fit due to a different body shap and they could probably wiggle out there due to their way shorter legs. Bringing them outside in the sommer is an option but nothing thats needed, id only do it under supervision and in an 100% proof environment like a rabbit cage so there is no way of them escaping or getting messed with by cats and other animals.

Hope that helps
 
Thanks for the info, I am going to add little more to the questions, so what blend of soil, sand, moss, etc, for example like 20% sand and 80% topsoil or whatever, second how long should the uvb lamp be, for example if my tank is 4x2x2 (which it should be) should it cover about 3 feet of the tank or 2 feet of the tank, last when I said Bearded dragon harness I ment for walking them outsideView attachment 416259
I just thought that on hot days I could take him outside and let him soak up some natural uv rays but did not want to take the risk if not using a leash, I know there slow but still. Anyway thanks for the advice.
1. Something like 50-50% or 60-40% Topsoil-Sand should work
2. Ideally the uvb is above the basking spot as the uvb is strongest where the sun hits the hardest in nature. Mine covers a third of the enclosure, but since my basking spot is raised the uvb gets weaker the further away from the basking spot you go. The most important thing is that there is always the option for the lizard to get out of the the uvb light

If you want i can show you some pictures of how i set my enclosure up
 
Back
Top Bottom