If you find a work around make sure to post it! I'm getting a T.16000M FCS for Christmas and would hate for it to interfere with by Tobii.
Hardware & Technical Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS official thread
- Thread starter Henkka77
- Start date
If you find a work around make sure to post it! I'm getting a T.16000M FCS for Christmas and would hate for it to interfere with by Tobii.
I'm not sure what happened to mine. I first had the return to center binded to the stick and for some reason it lost that setting and refused to recognize the inputs from the stick, but it was ok with the buttons on the throttle. Then, when I upgraded to 2.5 the EyeX quit working, it would work for Windows Hello but would turn off when the desk top launched. I rolled back to 2.4 and everything started working again, and, the Infinite Extension recognized the joystick buttons again.
I am using this without problems (tobii eyeX | Settings | About | Components) :
Hardware: System Product Name, CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU @ 4.00GHz, RAM: 16GB
OS Version: Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.14393.0] x64
Tobii Eye Tracking Core SW 2.5.0.5588
Eye tracker model EyeX Controller
Serial number EYEX2-031106815152
Firmware 2.0.2-33638
Tobii Controller Core 2.0.9
Tobii USB Service Not available
Tobii Controller Driver 2.0.4
Tobii Service 1.16.0.7081
Tobii Engine 1.16.0.7388
Tobii Config 4.2.1.746
Tobii Interaction 2.5.0.3863
Tobii Face Authentication for Windows Hello 1.0.20.204
Tobii Overview 1.0.1.98
Tobii Intro 1.0.1.168
Infinite Screen Extension (ISE): 2.02.574
The only thing I noticed was that ISE cannot be toggled on/off with a combination of buttons on the throttle and joystick, which was possible with the T.Flight.X HOTAS that I used before. This is because it are now 2 separate devices instead of one.
Oh, and maybe I also needed to restart Windows before all worked fine. Do not remember that since you almost need to restart Windows after moving your mouse...
@Pville_Piper btw. Your signature says T1600m instead of T16000
Hardware: System Product Name, CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU @ 4.00GHz, RAM: 16GB
OS Version: Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.14393.0] x64
Tobii Eye Tracking Core SW 2.5.0.5588
Eye tracker model EyeX Controller
Serial number EYEX2-031106815152
Firmware 2.0.2-33638
Tobii Controller Core 2.0.9
Tobii USB Service Not available
Tobii Controller Driver 2.0.4
Tobii Service 1.16.0.7081
Tobii Engine 1.16.0.7388
Tobii Config 4.2.1.746
Tobii Interaction 2.5.0.3863
Tobii Face Authentication for Windows Hello 1.0.20.204
Tobii Overview 1.0.1.98
Tobii Intro 1.0.1.168
Infinite Screen Extension (ISE): 2.02.574
The only thing I noticed was that ISE cannot be toggled on/off with a combination of buttons on the throttle and joystick, which was possible with the T.Flight.X HOTAS that I used before. This is because it are now 2 separate devices instead of one.
Oh, and maybe I also needed to restart Windows before all worked fine. Do not remember that since you almost need to restart Windows after moving your mouse...
@Pville_Piper btw. Your signature says T1600m instead of T16000
I too just got mine. The only thing I have noticed is that when you select T16000m in the ED options/control setup is that headlook is pre-bound to JOY 6 (on the throttle). As has been said below this may be interfering with you Tobii.
Hello all,
Just put in my order, now to wait for Thrustmaster UK to have them in stock!
I have a really basic question:
I intend to use the HOTAS on a lap tray, about 3 meters from my PC. Can I use a USB hub for the two connectors from the HOTAS into one USB port in my PC, or should I use two separate extensions for each item into two separate USB ports in my PC?
I'm using USB 2.0 and ports are at a premium hence my hoping I can use a hub.
Cheers!
Just put in my order, now to wait for Thrustmaster UK to have them in stock!
I have a really basic question:
I intend to use the HOTAS on a lap tray, about 3 meters from my PC. Can I use a USB hub for the two connectors from the HOTAS into one USB port in my PC, or should I use two separate extensions for each item into two separate USB ports in my PC?
I'm using USB 2.0 and ports are at a premium hence my hoping I can use a hub.
Cheers!
A hub should work fine (it does for me).
I'm running mine from a powered USB 3.0 hub on my desk, no problems. But since each of them (IIRC) is labeled to use 250 mA, I'd use a powered hub in any case (i.e. a hub with its own power supply).
Deadzone?
Did you still need to set some level of deadzone for this to work? I have found that the 0 point on this throttle is so small finding and lining up the magnets would seem like quite the task? Did you use TARGET to set the deadzone? I have been having huge issues with the software on my setup.
Did you still need to set some level of deadzone for this to work? I have found that the 0 point on this throttle is so small finding and lining up the magnets would seem like quite the task? Did you use TARGET to set the deadzone? I have been having huge issues with the software on my setup.
Christmas day so I can unwrap mine. 4 hours later still resetting the binds. Sort of stuck cannot figure out while when coming into land at any PAD anywhere. I am sinking slowly to the ground will not hold positon. Any ideas where to look.
Taking a break for a mince pie.
Thank God Beta is up hate to think of the rebuy costs in Live would be so far.
Taking a break for a mince pie.
Thank God Beta is up hate to think of the rebuy costs in Live would be so far.
Probably need to set a deadzone for your thrusters, especially if you are using the analogue stick on the throttle for them. Expand the + under the vertical / lateral thruster bindings in controls and you'll be able to set it.
Many thanks yes spot on. The Deadzone cured it.
Alternatively if you download Thrustmaster's drivers there is an option to set a system-wide deadzone for the analog stick.
I finally got mine at Friday. Didnt have any time to test this back then but now as i have couple of hours with the FCS, i can put here some thoughts..
Build quality seems very impressive and durable, far less "cheaper looking" than my previous T-Flight. It didnt bother me with T-Flight though.
Besizes, im using Vive so i dont even see the thing.
The plus size is also that i dont see that quite annoying led at the base of the joystick. I dont know if that can be turned off from software somewhere, but i didnt download any software so i havent a clue.
Actually, i just plugged the FCS to usb ports, selected the FCS preset from control presets and began fiddling with the bindings, didnt use any software at all and works like a charm.
It might be that i want to adjust the joystick curves at some point but as im en route to Beagle Point, the stock curves serves me just fine.
Throttle and joystick feels sturdy and not plasticy at all.
Handling. The joystick is a bit too big for my hands, as i have relatively small hands and with T-Flight i felt at home. This might be something to get used to with time, but the first impression was that the joystick is a bit too thick.
Joystick movement is really nice and smooth, didnt touch any tensions yet and out of the box it feels quite nice. I had 1400hrs in T-Flight and had the tension screw maxed and i kind of got used to it like that, but i think i like this better as its a bit more loose.
Joystick has much more trajectory than T-Flight and it makes it much more precise most likely, but im not quite sure do i like the bigger trajectory as it requires more hand movement. But again, im guessing its something you will get used to with time.
Throttle feels smooth and now after 2 hours in, i can say that i dont need the centering notches at all. Im very at home with the stock binding with the throttle curve beginning from the "bottom" and reverse is with the analog hat.
Buttons. Finally, i can let got my keyboard. Except in galaxy map, thats something i just cant use with nothing else but keyb+mouse.
Maybe i will learn to do it with FCS some day..
But, theres really decent amount of buttons and now my main problem is, how to bind this thing..
Considering i use Vive, most of the throttle hats and buttons are easily recognizable just by touching and without looking, i think this very important for VR users.
Joystick base buttons, yes those controversial ones.. The left side buttons im ok with, i have some rarely used functions to bind for them, but those buttons on the right... bad Thrustmaster, BAD.
All and all, for this price, you will get a really good HOTAS. This is a clear step up from the T-Flight and i wouldnt call FCS a "cheap" in any way.
Build quality seems very impressive and durable, far less "cheaper looking" than my previous T-Flight. It didnt bother me with T-Flight though.
Besizes, im using Vive so i dont even see the thing.
The plus size is also that i dont see that quite annoying led at the base of the joystick. I dont know if that can be turned off from software somewhere, but i didnt download any software so i havent a clue.
Actually, i just plugged the FCS to usb ports, selected the FCS preset from control presets and began fiddling with the bindings, didnt use any software at all and works like a charm.
It might be that i want to adjust the joystick curves at some point but as im en route to Beagle Point, the stock curves serves me just fine.
Throttle and joystick feels sturdy and not plasticy at all.
Handling. The joystick is a bit too big for my hands, as i have relatively small hands and with T-Flight i felt at home. This might be something to get used to with time, but the first impression was that the joystick is a bit too thick.
Joystick movement is really nice and smooth, didnt touch any tensions yet and out of the box it feels quite nice. I had 1400hrs in T-Flight and had the tension screw maxed and i kind of got used to it like that, but i think i like this better as its a bit more loose.
Joystick has much more trajectory than T-Flight and it makes it much more precise most likely, but im not quite sure do i like the bigger trajectory as it requires more hand movement. But again, im guessing its something you will get used to with time.
Throttle feels smooth and now after 2 hours in, i can say that i dont need the centering notches at all. Im very at home with the stock binding with the throttle curve beginning from the "bottom" and reverse is with the analog hat.
Buttons. Finally, i can let got my keyboard. Except in galaxy map, thats something i just cant use with nothing else but keyb+mouse.
Maybe i will learn to do it with FCS some day..
But, theres really decent amount of buttons and now my main problem is, how to bind this thing..
Considering i use Vive, most of the throttle hats and buttons are easily recognizable just by touching and without looking, i think this very important for VR users.
Joystick base buttons, yes those controversial ones.. The left side buttons im ok with, i have some rarely used functions to bind for them, but those buttons on the right... bad Thrustmaster, BAD.
All and all, for this price, you will get a really good HOTAS. This is a clear step up from the T-Flight and i wouldnt call FCS a "cheap" in any way.
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But, theres really decent amount of buttons and now my main problem is, how to bind this thing..
Considering i use Vive, most of the throttle hats and buttons are easily recognizable just by touching and without looking, i think this very important for VR users.
I found it useful to give the throttle thumb hats names for me to verbalise when memorising my bindings: I call them "cone", "saddle" and "castle".
Here are the bindings I settled on (including GalMap navigation though I too am still tending to use the mouse for that). I tried to make it so that things I want to do simultaneously in combat are on different fingers (e.g. lateral thrust, power management, secondary weapons fire). YYMV but at any rate it's a different take than FD's:
- Without headlook (for VR and head-tracking users): http://www.mcdee.net/elite/binds/fvrhep
- With headlook toggled on the mini-stick: http://www.mcdee.net/elite/binds/zonlfm
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I saw a review of the Throttle only and one person commented on how cheap and plasticky it looked and felt like. I'm like, Well, what do you expect from an 80 dollar joystick? Something like the Warthog throttle? Not for $80.00. Of course it's made out of plastic. But plastic isn't a bad thing. But it's not going to have a premium finish on it for a measly 80 bucks or 130 bucks for the entire set. This is the best joystick/throttle combination I've ever used. Of course there are better out there, but I don't have the 300 to 500 dollars to spend on a peripheral unless it's a VR headset and I don't even have it then.