Hi CMDRs, add me to the list of players with a jittery yaw using the Thrustmaster on XBOX... I guess I will have to look for the receipt and go back to the store..
Grmbl...
Grmbl...
Thrustmaster T-flight HOTAS One - Anyone else having Yaw problems?
- Thread starter JesusRocks1988
- Start date
Increase all yaw deadzones until the problem stops. Mine did the same thing after a month or two so I set a 65% deadzone as a temporary fix while I waited for TM to help and ended up not even bothering with getting it fixed. Hope this helps, commander. o7
The problem is, I think, that the jitter is almost full scale for a fraction of a second, so the signal is not ignored by the dead zone. The drift is the sum of these jitters that don't get ignored. Secondly, you have to change the deadzone everywhere that the yaw control is being used, e.g. Galaxy Map, SRV, Camera..
Maximizing deadzones did nothing to my drift rate on the broken HOTAS.
I have been saying for months that cleaning or replacement are the only fixes I'd use. I don't want to set a dead zone, even if it did work. Especially not 60%, that renders a stick almost useless
This is happening to mine now after 2mths...I can deal with slight yaw drift, but rapid scrolling through the l/h menu is a pain, and at 80quid this is unacceptable.
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Yours should still be in warranty - Demand a refund from the supplier and BUY a replacement, this ensures you then get a full warranty period again; if you exchange or replace your warranty is limited by the initial purchase date.
If it's OUT of warranty - try taking the handle apart and clean/blow on the potentiometer at the top of the white central shaft (see illustration above) relieve the strain on the blue/white/grey wires leading to it (then fix with hot glue or insulation tape), you may need to ensure the joints are still firmly soldered and reassemble the handle, watch out for the placement of the twist yaw return spring it's a bit fiddly when putting the twist grip shells back together.
This Post has the pictures
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For information, I opened up my joystick on Wednesday, only the 4 screws as mentioned earlier in this thread. The three wires were soldered on well (visually) in the yaw potentiometer. I lifted the potentiometer off the central (white) column, and gave it about 10 twists, end-stop to end-stop. Then I reinstalled everything. It is a bit fiddly, because there are three pieces that have to be mated together before the screws go in. (A bit of tape will help). Anyway, since then problem is solved, no more jitter in the yaw axis. I'll post here if/when it starts again.
I did exactly the same and it works fine again now... It just takes 15 minutes.
No more jitter and no more drifting on yaw axis.
Have to see how often you need to do this though.
No more jitter and no more drifting on yaw axis.
Have to see how often you need to do this though.
Just did everything like you described, problem now solved. I just rotated few times this little thing on white column and assembled everything back.
My second one started to show minor symptoms so I took apart the handle and noticed two of the three solder tangs were very close together on the yaw POT. In separating them and trying to adjust their position I managed to snap them completely off. Once the blue air had cleared and my hands had steadied I took a craft knife to the pot and pared back the plastic housing; soldered the wires back into place and liberally applied hot glue to the solder joints and cables to allow strain protection.
Much to my relief it still works and the twitch has gone.
Much to my relief it still works and the twitch has gone.
After about 4 weeks the issue did appear again, unfortunately.
So I had to do the same procedure again. This time I also used a bit WD40 spray on the poti and twisted it for about 1 minutes to the left and right endpoints. (As suggested by Thustmaster support, they are very aware of that issue).
Right now it's working perfect again, no jitter and no drifting yaw axis.
I have to see and wait if this solution with the WD40 will fix it for more then 4 weeks..
I will keep you updated.
So I had to do the same procedure again. This time I also used a bit WD40 spray on the poti and twisted it for about 1 minutes to the left and right endpoints. (As suggested by Thustmaster support, they are very aware of that issue).
Right now it's working perfect again, no jitter and no drifting yaw axis.
I have to see and wait if this solution with the WD40 will fix it for more then 4 weeks..
I will keep you updated.
Unfortunately, it is just a temporarely "fix" that works, for days... weeks.. months (if lucky).
Recently my Throttle was developing the same behavior as the Yaw.
It appears to be a funadamental design flaw with the used potentiometers and / or tight wiring.
I got already a warranty replacement from Amazon, after I proved that I did contact the Thrustmaster support and tried the Thrustmaster suggested solutions.
Which are:
They dont care if you dismantle it or not for warranty reasons, since they know this issue very well - at least in my personal case I got that confirmed and stated from Thrustmaster support that doing the things above will not void the warranty. At least as long you are not clumsy and damage other things I assume.
It appears to be the circle of life that you have to maintain, replace the T-Flight HOTAS every few weeks, or month.
Sadly there is no alternative (as far i know) for XBOX, aside of the even worse Hori HOTAS.
Recently my Throttle was developing the same behavior as the Yaw.
It appears to be a funadamental design flaw with the used potentiometers and / or tight wiring.
I got already a warranty replacement from Amazon, after I proved that I did contact the Thrustmaster support and tried the Thrustmaster suggested solutions.
Which are:
- dismantling flightstick,
- blowing, twerking and WD40 the yaw potentiometer,
- adjust wiring if needed,
- don't let the HoTAS plugged into USB port if you dont use it actually
They dont care if you dismantle it or not for warranty reasons, since they know this issue very well - at least in my personal case I got that confirmed and stated from Thrustmaster support that doing the things above will not void the warranty. At least as long you are not clumsy and damage other things I assume.
It appears to be the circle of life that you have to maintain, replace the T-Flight HOTAS every few weeks, or month.
Sadly there is no alternative (as far i know) for XBOX, aside of the even worse Hori HOTAS.
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Bumping an old thread for an observation. I'm on my second Hotas X and have the same issue on both. I noticed after taking them apart that the moulding for the flightstick frame rests on top of the potentiometer and that during constant use I usually rest my hand on the flightstick. This means that the pot constantly bears some of the weight of one's hand and arm during use which isn't what these components are meant for.
Does not apply to hotas one
The weight is on the join of the the plastic parts on the Hotas one at the bottom... Were the rotation spring sits in the base to push back... you can tell this because When you don't do the bottom screws up and try to lift the Handle It Does not Come off because the BASE of the hand grip is still in place by the internal components of the Shaft, the shaft has a Counter rear part to the spring that stops the spring going higher or lower at the reverse side of the spring this fits in to the plastic slot, of the grip and the rotation lock system... This is why you can't undo the two screws at the bottom and just pull it off. The plastic shaft height is prefixed buy the rotate spring system...
The pot sits on top of the shaft with lots of vertical wiggle room via gravity...
Having it not fit by gravity and having it attach to the plastic with a tight fit is one of the user fixes this removes the wiggle room...
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Yeah, on closer inspection you're right it's the same for the Hotas X. I got it working for now, but I know it won't last long (which sucks because I love this stick!)
Ok Commanders I have just brought one of these to use with Windows 10 and so far Elite Dangerous Sees the hotas but can I get the hotas and WIN10 to react nope Nada what am I doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.