Thrustmaster T-flight HOTAS One - Anyone else having Yaw problems?

Ok Commanders I have just brought one of these to use with Windows 10 and so far Elite Dangerous Sees the hotas but can I get the hotas and WIN10 to react nope Nada what am I doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The Thrustmaster Hotas 4 (which is foremost a PS4 stick) can be used with a PC but requires special drivers to be installed (and it actually has slightly better internals than the T.Flight X, less dead zone wobble in the middle). The Hotas One (which is their xbox stick) I have no idea about. Perhaps there are drivers available like the 4 which allow it to be used with a PC?
 
The Xbpx one hotas 1 was not PC compatible in Xbox mode...
The hotas 1 has a PC switch to force a mode that is PC compliant but as others stated thrustmaster made PC apps and drivers for the flight sticks so down load the PC app for firmware upgrades and testing... and the updated PC driver if not allready done so....
 
Let's face it,the Thrustmaster for XBOX One is a complete POS.Just returned my second one in 6 weeks for a THIRD replacement.Re-installing the drivers did nothing.All the "fixes" on Reddit and the other thread on these forums had the same effect.This is what happens when a company has an exclusive contract.This has been an ongoing issue with the Thrustmaster since it's launch in 2016 or 17 and STILL had not been addressed and at this point we can quite safely assume it will never be.Meanwhile my 20$,11 year old Logitech Saitek Cyborg Evo still works perfectly.Too bad it's not compatible with Xbox.
 
Thanks for all the advice. So I figured out the issue and like one or two of you said drivers but those I had already installed. The issue was having both an x box wired controller and the hotas seeing each other and cancelling each other out. I sussed this by powering up the wired controller which then made a bridge to the hotas as strange as that sounds. I have now switched off the wired x box controller and hola the xbox hotas works in both X box and PC Mode.
 
I bought the T flight one specifically to have a HOTAS for the Xbox one. I also tried using it on PC for DCS. Same issue. Yaws to the left. There is no calibration method on the xbox that I am aware of. That said, even if I use the software in windows you an litterally see it jumping around in the calibration software. It seems to me they need to either get rid of the use of paddles for yaw and just stick to stick twist or vice versa. I am wondering what will happen if I get the actual rudder pedals which woudl mean three means of controlling yaw. Maybe it would fix it? Maybe make it worse. Anyway, I think I am still within 2 years so contacting them. It works with ACE Combat, and War thunder and Elite on xbox, but it would nice if it at least yaw right instead of left since everyone know you need right rudder during a climb to compensate for torque on any prop driven aircraft.
 
Annoyingly, since just before Distant Worlds 2, I've been having some kind of phantom input happening on the twist yaw. I'll be not touching the stick, and my ship will suddenly yaw to the left a little every few minutes. Same goes for trying to line up the camera, really annoying when it drifts to the left.

Anyone else experiencing this kind of thing?
Anyone who has, did you manage to find a way to fix it?

Should I contact Thrustmaster for a repair? It'll be out of warranty by now as I got it at launch in October 2017. Just making it really irritating to play the game, and I can't face going back to using the pad.

I've tried setting a dead zone on the yaw in the control settings but that's not helped at all.

Any help appreciated.

I have exactly the same issue, and have just contacted thrustmaster for the issue! Its a pity, for PC I have a microsoft sidewinder precision 2 with no issue for more than 20years ....
 
Here's a thought... If the pots are the central issue here, has anyone thought to find a replacement pot with higher quality? The manufacturer is only using these because they're cheap and it reduces their overhead. There's no reason we can't find a better and more reliable pot, solder it in place of the old one, and essentially upgrade our HOTAS. The firmware won't even notice the change if we use one with the same resolution as the one that's currently installed.

I've got four of these controllers and two are trash. The two my wife and I are currently using are starting to have the same dithering issues everyone else is having. I'll have some free time coming up and I plan on tearing into the scrapped ones to see if I can get them repaired. In the meantime, if anyone can find any manufacturer markings on their pots maybe we can find a suitable replacement. Post them here and I'll see if any of our part suppliers at work have a compatible alternative.
 
Here's a thought... If the pots are the central issue here, has anyone thought to find a replacement pot with higher quality? The manufacturer is only using these because they're cheap and it reduces their overhead. There's no reason we can't find a better and more reliable pot, solder it in place of the old one, and essentially upgrade our HOTAS. The firmware won't even notice the change if we use one with the same resolution as the one that's currently installed.

I've got four of these controllers and two are trash. The two my wife and I are currently using are starting to have the same dithering issues everyone else is having. I'll have some free time coming up and I plan on tearing into the scrapped ones to see if I can get them repaired. In the meantime, if anyone can find any manufacturer markings on their pots maybe we can find a suitable replacement. Post them here and I'll see if any of our part suppliers at work have a compatible alternative.
any update on this?

i tore into one of mine, took out the pots (and no, like an idiot i didn't take any photos of the pots) and sprayed them with electronic cleaner. there was a pinkish red lube all over the pots. reassembled everything and the stick worked like new. for 24 hours. i am starting to get the yaw twitch again but just barely.

changing out the pots seems like it would be easy enough. if i'm feeling motivated next Monday or Tuesday i'll take apart my other HOTAS X, take some photos of the pots and clean them up as well.
 
I will get a free replacement, I have contacted thrustmaster and had to send them a video of the operation/issue with the thrustmaster diagnostic tool on a windows computer. I bought the device in Jan 2019. Surely the new one will break again ...
 
I will get a free replacement, I have contacted thrustmaster and had to send them a video of the operation/issue with the thrustmaster diagnostic tool on a windows computer. I bought the device in Jan 2019. Surely the new one will break again ...
my first lasted almost a year. then the twist spring broke. the last two have had false input issues within weeks of unboxing.
 
Ive just done my umteenth repair to this terrible joystick. I have returned three. I keep getting the left drift. Unlike what some have posted I have found their customer service terrible. Instead I buy a new one and pack the old one in its place and return it. If Thrustmaster think it’s ok to acknowledge that there’s a problem and allow it to continue they deserve the same respect as they give their customers. Sadly there’s no valid alternative for my poor Xbox Commander. At least he has a Cobra mk4 to blame for left drift.
 
i finally tore into my brand new (under 2 months old) HOTAS. it had started to pitch up and down on it's own.

i took out the potentiometer that controls pitch and cleaned off all the factory lubricant that was on the outside. i then soaked it in electronic cleaner spray. like, really soaked it. i waited until it dried and then waited a little longer so any electronic cleaner that had gotten inside the potentiometer would also be dry(my goal was to get the cleaning fluid inside the pot). before reassembling i plugged it in and it worked perfectly. no false inputs on the pitch.

i completely reassembled it all the while telling myself that i should clean the other two potentiometers that control yaw and roll. but, like a dumba$$, i didn't.

a week later i still have no issues with pitch, but the left yaw drift just started. so, one of these evenings i'll pull it apart again and clean the remaining two pots.

in case anyone is wondering, the potentiometers that control pitch, yaw and roll are all identical parts. i have not looked at the throttle pot, yet.

due to my eye sight and the fact that i didn't know where to look, i wasn't able to get a part number.

hope this helps someone.

i am not, of course, encouraging anyone to take apart their Thrustmaster HOTAS X. this will void the warranty.

just passing on information about how easy it was for me to disassemble, clean and reassemble.

if anyone can pinpoint a part number and source for these potentiometers i'd be willing to purchase some, install them and report back.
 
i finally tore into my brand new (under 2 months old) HOTAS. it had started to pitch up and down on it's own.

i took out the potentiometer that controls pitch and cleaned off all the factory lubricant that was on the outside. i then soaked it in electronic cleaner spray. like, really soaked it. i waited until it dried and then waited a little longer so any electronic cleaner that had gotten inside the potentiometer would also be dry(my goal was to get the cleaning fluid inside the pot). before reassembling i plugged it in and it worked perfectly. no false inputs on the pitch.

i completely reassembled it all the while telling myself that i should clean the other two potentiometers that control yaw and roll. but, like a dumba$$, i didn't.

a week later i still have no issues with pitch, but the left yaw drift just started. so, one of these evenings i'll pull it apart again and clean the remaining two pots.

in case anyone is wondering, the potentiometers that control pitch, yaw and roll are all identical parts. i have not looked at the throttle pot, yet.

due to my eye sight and the fact that i didn't know where to look, i wasn't able to get a part number.

hope this helps someone.

i am not, of course, encouraging anyone to take apart their Thrustmaster HOTAS X. this will void the warranty.

just passing on information about how easy it was for me to disassemble, clean and reassemble.

if anyone can pinpoint a part number and source for these potentiometers i'd be willing to purchase some, install them and report back.

Have you tested the yaw on your stick yet? The metal pin inside is a pain to put back correctly and can make your stick loose its tension.
 
Took mine apart and thanks to all...its bu##er to put together again, you need three hands...now it’s excellent again..now my pc stick, an x52 pro..decides randomly, only in CQC not to fire on my chaff button, not every time either! Ah well...more points for everyone else! Thanks to Commander mole as well, I didn’t give up and now it’s like new. Cheers all. Don’t give up!
 
Back
Top Bottom