What joystick/controller do you use?

I use an Elite controller most of the time. Not really required, but the paddles are nice for lateral thrust.

I’ll probably continue to use it until I move to PC, and maybe for awhile after that.

I have no intention of using KB+M, but a proper HOTAS setup sounds fun.
 
Nice one. I would use the word "dramatic" rather than "significant" in my case. My throttle went from juddery and sticky (new out the box) to smooth as silk and has remained so for a year now.

Try removing the middle of the three screws on each retaining plate. Also, don't overdo the amount of grease. Teflon has, according to Wiki, the third lowest coefficient of friction of any solid. Mine is adjusted to be fairly loose - the throttle body slides easily under its own weight if I tilt the unit 60 degrees or so.

Surprised Thrustmaster don't do this themselves. It is not exactly expensive.

I didn't clean the grease from my old throttle and it was already much smoother than the new one is after those first few hours of use, the difference between a new one and my old one with the teflon is dramatic, yes ;)

I'll have a play with the screws but I don't want to risk stripping out the threads on the new one. I'm going to look at making a strain relief for the USB cable as you did too, I am assuming the flickery analogue controls may be because I've taken the old one apart (to grease it) so many times.
 

Craith

Volunteer Moderator
Saitek X52-Pro ... an old one, still working like a charm after 5 years. It slowly starts to show some wear and tear (something got stuck in the primary fire button, making it unresponsive and even triggering it on its own sometimes, but a good cleaning took care of that).
For the FSS and the SRV-turret I use the mouse.

placed where it is in the ingame cockpit in relation to my seat so everything is in order in VR.
 
I use default ps4 controller but the Hotas is interesting. I hesitate to change because I know there will be a steep learning curve.
 
One of these:
laptop-keyboard-1449238761meI.jpg


plus one of these bad boys:

hp-spectre-x2-2017-trackpad.jpg
 
Formerly used a T-Flight HOTAS X on my first account (PC) but then upgraded to the T16000 stick and throttle. Nice. The HOTAS X was still going strong whenI put it back in the box to keep it as a backup.

On my newer PS4 account I now also use a T-Flight HOTAS X (PS4 edition), and that's also going strong even after a good 18 months.

I've recently bought a new PC and installed that in the living room, and will be going back to the PC commander when my PS4 CMDR gets home from DW2 - and I'll be using the T16000 again, but this time will be using a Rift S as well.

I also own a G13 pad, from when I used to play with an old Logitech joystick prior to buying the first T-Flight, but I don't really think I an find a use for it now?

I reckon a HOTAS is best for E:D and a worthwhile investment for a player putting in a few hours each week
 
...The FCS throttle has been a little spikey on the analogue axies pretty much since new, and the sliding throttle became frustratingly sticky after a few weeks, I've taken it apart to remove & re-apply silicone grease to the sliders every month or so for the last couple of years, but recently started to get noticeably worse, seemingly from simple wear on the plastic mouldings (I've probably put 3,000+hrs onto this device)...

Huge caveat - I've not put anything like the hours of play into my Thrustmaster T.16000M that you have.

The throttle was pretty horrible when I first received it - very resistant to movement and jerky when moving. I solved it by pretty much fully releasing the tensioning screw and putting the smallest smear/dab of silicon grease on each rail and running the throttle up/down a few times - all of which you can do without disassembly - and it's been fine ever since. That said, after 3,000+ hours it might be melted!
 
Huge caveat - I've not put anything like the hours of play into my Thrustmaster T.16000M that you have.

The throttle was pretty horrible when I first received it - very resistant to movement and jerky when moving. I solved it by pretty much fully releasing the tensioning screw and putting the smallest smear/dab of silicon grease on each rail and running the throttle up/down a few times - all of which you can do without disassembly - and it's been fine ever since. That said, after 3,000+ hours it might be melted!

I'm not really sure how you could grease the runners without removing the base, that's all I usually do. But every so often I take it all apart to clean off the old grease (& human slime). I used to smoke when I bought my old one & I'm pretty sure that contributed to the wear, I've needed to grease it much less frequently since I stopped. I think the flickering axies may be because I was opening it up & putting strain on the USB wire where it's soldered (and hot glued) to the PCB though, which is why I haven't opened up the new one yet - that flickering is the reason why I bought a new unit, not the sticky throttle action.

But yes, even good stuff will wear out eventually. If the old one was electronically fine I'd say it would be good to continue to use with this teflon mod but the slider mechanism isn't the only problem it has. I may take a soldering iron to it or at least check the connections for continuity but for the life it's led I figured buying a replacement was easier :)
 
I use a T-Flight HOTAS X which I needed to open once to fix one of the buttons on but has been reliable and is a great introduction at this price point. Warthog remains a little out of my price range and always a little wary about the Saitek / Logitech ones because they look lovely but you hear so many complaints.

There is a new low-mid-range HOTAS on UK amazon which is Per Flight Stick Controller PC Game PXN-2119II which has the look of a Logitech but comes in cheap. Anyone know if it is any good? Sounds too good to be true.
 
Honestly it's very simple. The gap on the upper face that the throttle runs in - reach under it, and to either side. The metal bars are v easy to find and grease.

Ah okay :) Do you use a toothpick or something? I'm tempted to try that on the new one before taking it apart for the first time.
 
I use a dual stick T.16000m FCS set up with Voice Attack. I have Brent Spiner as my ship A.I. But when I'm feeling lazy and just wanna cruise around, I'll opt for a single stick with the keyboard for maneuvering thrusters.
 
Ah okay :) Do you use a toothpick or something? I'm tempted to try that on the new one before taking it apart for the first time.

The channel in the base is wide enough to put a finger in, the rails run either side and are very easy to reach. I put the smallest amount of the silica gel on my finger and lightly dabbed each rail. To be very clear, I applied the very least amount of gel. Then ran the throttle back and forth a few times and it's been fine since.

I also released the friction adjustment to its loosest point - there is a hole for small screw-driver on the underside (base) of the throttle.
 
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WOW
So many combinations. :)

Mouse and keyboard of course.
X52 pro hotas, 2009-2010 maybe? 1 toggle on the sticks base quit working so far.
Pro flight rudder pedals
Razer Tartarus V2 game pad.
Logitech console controller for the srv.
All those are the reasons I've never and probably never will own a console.
 
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Occulus Rift
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Thrustmaster Hotas Stick
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CH Pro Throttle
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MFG Crosswind Pedals
MFG-Crosswind-Pedals.png

Elgato Streamdeck 15 Button
13081726_800.jpg


it feels almost like I'm there :ROFLMAO:
 
A Frankensetup:
Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog grip on a Virpil VPC WarBRD base (which is SO much better than TM's base).
Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog Throttle
VKB Rudder Pedals.
 

Deleted member 38366

D
Late Update on my experience with the T.16000M FCS that replaced the T.Flight HOTAS X series which died on me like flies :

- it as well dies with the exact same failure symptoms (Stick twist going erratic, ghost inputs, then non-recoverable decalibration issues) as the T. Flight HOTAS X

I can only assume Thrustmaster used the same cheap and unreliable faulty wiring for the stick twist in both HOTAS Systems.

So this far, no single Thrustmaster HOTAS has exceeded a lifetime of 4 months (and that's with alot of accepted degradation already) with me and the failures were basically all identical.
( surprisingly, it made no difference if they were used like raw eggs [Exploration] or heavy duty [intensive Combat] )

I'm seriously running out of ideas now and I definitely miss the durability of the old Joysticks of the 8 / 16-bit era :p
= I'm all open for suggestions at this point
 
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Late Update on my experience with the T.16000M FCS that replaced the T.Flight HOTAS X series which died on me like flies :

- it as well dies with the exact same failure symptoms (Stick twist going erratic, ghost inputs, then non-recoverable decalibration issues) as the T. Flight HOTAS X

I can only assume Thrustmaster used the same cheap and unreliable faulty wiring for the stick twist in both HOTAS Systems.

So this far, no single Thrustmaster HOTAS has exceeded a lifetime of 4 months (and that's with alot of accepted degradation already) with me and the failures were basically all identical.
( surprisingly, it made no difference if they were used like raw eggs [Exploration] or heavy duty [intensive Combat] )

I'm seriously running out of ideas now and I definitely miss the durability of the old Joysticks of the 8 / 16-bit era :p
= I'm all open for suggestions at this point
I think its you being heavy handed. 🤔

I have two T-flight Xs one I've had for 3 years of almost daily use, the other I bought when an older non-thrustmaster setup died.
Not had any issues. Older is maybe a bit less responsive on some buttons.
For 40 pounds or so, that's pretty good going I think.

Gen
 
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