Yeah I figure the Area-51 R2 must have some obscure type of motherboard or something. Doesn't seem like a common problem. Either that or something went wrong installing the drivers.
The Joystick/Controller discussion thread
Yeah I figure the Area-51 R2 must have some obscure type of motherboard or something. Doesn't seem like a common problem. Either that or something went wrong installing the drivers.
I have an X99 motherboard currently and it does not work with that one.
From my research, the X52 device will only work properly on pure EHCI USB2 - If XHCI is part of the USB tree to which the device is connected then the device fails to work as expected. With X99 motherboards for example, any USB2 ports must come from a separate EHCI only USB2 controller (either motherboard mounted or expansion card).
That aside, there are still the issues the drivers have interfering with the operation of other HCI equipment (i.e. mice) on Windows 10. Overall, there are problems with the drivers and Mad Catz mega-failed on supporting them. Let's hope Logitech will do better.
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I'm using the T-fight HOTAS. It has worked alright, until very recently. The "roll" has started pulling very strongly to the right. Not sure how to fix it...
Well there is the point that you are using the Pro variant and not the Std one which could be a factor to start with.
The friend who I passed the device on to and is still running Windows 7 had problems with the device (X52 Std) working properly on his machine - don't know the chipset but it was an XHCI motherboard - and the issues were only resolved by using a USB2 expansion card they happened to have.
I don't know why the pro device works on your hardware, but my investigations regarding the std device were reasonably extensive and the issue in question is far from an isolated incident.
Overall the discussion is largely moot, based on my experience with the X52 Std and previous Saitek controllers (with one exception - a gamepad) - I will never again buy another Saitek brand device. If Logitech bring out their own "fixed" variant of the Saitek X-series controllers I may consider that (should I ever need to replace my Thrustmaster controllers) but I have zero confidence in the Saitek brand.
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USB is arcane dark magic. Sometimes things like fly-leads cause huge headaches, or installing the wrong chipset drivers, bugged BIOS, Windows power management needing registry hacks, cheap USB ports, dummy USB ports (yup I've seen those), or simply drivers compiled incorrectly with typos in the current management values.
While I remember - grab a copy of the USB View utility. It's ancient but has proven extremely useful over the years. This explains it a bit better than me:
http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/wi...shoot-your-usb-ports-with-microsoft-usb-view/
While I remember - grab a copy of the USB View utility. It's ancient but has proven extremely useful over the years. This explains it a bit better than me:
http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/wi...shoot-your-usb-ports-with-microsoft-usb-view/
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I take it you mean the Twist axis? If so, it is not an uncommon failure with joysticks in general - the Logitech Extreme 3D Pro is the only stick I have known with a mechanically reliable twist axis on the main stick.
It's not a failure i think, i dont have it when i only use the stick...when i play with the hotas setup, BANG, i have it !
I will continu to find howto get it wright, it must be when seting up the axis from the stick where the answer lies...let you know when i found it.
I have all the thrustmaster documentation, i'll re-read it also...maybe they have a forum ?!
Is calibration an option? All my joysticks since I've started playing ED have had some sort of calibration software...
Z...
I upgraded my Hotas-X to a F16000 + the FCS Throttle (Thrustmaster). The H-X served me well, and is still used by one of my sons.
This combo is really pretty sweet--the throttle is amaze-sauce, buttons are perfectly placed and the throttle itself is smooth as silk. The joystick doesn't feel *that* amazing, but it's very accurate (then again, compared to the H-X, everything is accurate!). Base buttons are plentiful, but require use by the opposite (throttle) hand to operate unless you're taking your hand off the stick.
Had this setup now for a couple of months, and they're still working flawlessly. My only two gripes: the light on the stick is ridiculous, and I wish I could turn it off. The throttle has no lights at all, and you can't tell by looking at it if it's actually on. Normally, that's not an issue, but I've found the throttle to occasionally disconnect (never in-game, just between play sessions). This may also be an issue with my computer, but I have plugged it in several different usb ports with no change. Pretty rare, though--happens maybe once every two weeks.
This combo is really pretty sweet--the throttle is amaze-sauce, buttons are perfectly placed and the throttle itself is smooth as silk. The joystick doesn't feel *that* amazing, but it's very accurate (then again, compared to the H-X, everything is accurate!). Base buttons are plentiful, but require use by the opposite (throttle) hand to operate unless you're taking your hand off the stick.
Had this setup now for a couple of months, and they're still working flawlessly. My only two gripes: the light on the stick is ridiculous, and I wish I could turn it off. The throttle has no lights at all, and you can't tell by looking at it if it's actually on. Normally, that's not an issue, but I've found the throttle to occasionally disconnect (never in-game, just between play sessions). This may also be an issue with my computer, but I have plugged it in several different usb ports with no change. Pretty rare, though--happens maybe once every two weeks.
I just found one solution...turn of the yaw axle from the joystick (blanc) and set 2 separate keys for it.
I quickly choose the left ctrl and the "alt" keys to it, works well !
There must be another way, but on the other side twisting your wrist everytime hurts after many hours..so solved 2 probs woehoe !
I quickly choose the left ctrl and the "alt" keys to it, works well !
There must be another way, but on the other side twisting your wrist everytime hurts after many hours..so solved 2 probs woehoe !
Considering that we can move the ship in all directions and rotations, in my research for better joystick or hotas I found this " 3d spaceexplorer "
[video=youtube;_LIJHn6LqGo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LIJHn6LqGo&t=31s[/video]
An 8-axis analogic controller....
It looks very odd, but maybe switching the axis orientation like we are holding the ship from the back and not from the top like in the video... ?
I don't know, for now my xbox controller with personalized axes is the best choise
[video=youtube;_LIJHn6LqGo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LIJHn6LqGo&t=31s[/video]
An 8-axis analogic controller....
It looks very odd, but maybe switching the axis orientation like we are holding the ship from the back and not from the top like in the video... ?
I don't know, for now my xbox controller with personalized axes is the best choise
The Spaceexplorer and similar devices are used in professional CAD/Modelling and sometimes in simulation, they normally have just 6 degrees of freedom...
- Push Down/Pull Up
- Push Fwd/Pull back
- Push Left/Right
- Tilt Fwd/Back
- Tilt Left/Right
- Twist Left/Right
Cover the transparent parts with black sticky tape. Problem solved.
Seriously, this is what I did with my T16000M. Made the light a lot more bearable. Isn’t likely to void your warranty, too, unlike cutting the wires (which I’ve seen some people on the net recommend).
Great idea, and I feel like a dolt for not thinking of this before. Thanks! (for the idea--the dolt part is all on me!)
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You can de-solder the one of the cables, and then re-solder if there is a warranty issue. I just cut mine, though, I had plans to mod so it didn't bother me much.. Seriously though, there is absolutely NO excuse for TM to not have put a damn on/off switch for it, the "re-designed" it, after all!
Z...
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Ok, I misscalculated it XD
I found only the spaceexplorer.. do you know other similar devices?
There's no throttle software installed. I did relocate both devices to the front panel USBs once I got the DK2 installed, so we'll see if the throttle disconnects continue. I also tossed the MSI USB speedboost software, because I could absolutely see that causing issues.