Hardware & Technical Saitek x55 rhino

When it is working I feel the X55 is the very best HOTAS system you can buy and I accept the Warthog is a robust, reliable item but the Saitek has everything that system has PLUS that much appreciated rudder on the joystick. The problem however is the FACT that the X55 has 14 wires clamped to a static fixing and a few centimetres away from this static clamp, these fourteen wires are clamped into the underside of the throttle. the wires clamped at this location clearly have to move with any throttle movement. The more you move the throttle, the more these wires move.

Can you see where this is going?

You have FOURTEEN separate strands of thin copper wire being moved backwards and forwards, both ends are clamped which means sadly that these wires have to bend.

Every time we move that throttle, we bend and straighten these wires.

YES, a thousand times YES these throttles can last a year, they can last two years, they can even last a lifetime BUT........

If we keep bending and straightening any piece of metal, eventually fatigue will set in and that metal will break down!!! :(

This is not rocket science, this is simple physics and yes there are answers and yes there are far, far cleverer folks out there that can come up with solutions but until then we are faced with all the numerous electrical issues that are being discussed

Cable.jpg

Not a pretty sight and I guess this is an extreme example of just how bad things can get and way before this condition is reached the owner will be having problems with buttons on the throttle doing their own thing before refusing to function.

My advice is as soon as buttons start to malfunction, nip into the Control Panel in Windows and then check or test your HOTAS system. Check to see if the buttons are functioning as they should. If there is a problem... STOP and contact Madkatz or Saitek.

To Saitek, I would plead that you modify that wiring, modify it and be proud of this excellent product which sadly at the present time is flawed.

I am a huge fan and hopefully this issue will eventually be history and we owners will rule the roost :)

Merry Christmas everyone and a very prosperous New Year
 
Thanks for the wiring tips. I love the X-55. It's excellent for ED and keeps up with the expansions. Mode 1 is the ship and mode 2 the SRV. Couldn't be better. Anyway when the buttons get weird I'll just get the soldering out and do some surgery splicing on the section where the wires bend. Then we're good for another year.
 

Javert

Volunteer Moderator
Hi all - is X-55 now fully compatible with Windows 10?

I am thinking of upgrading from Win 7 soon as I was waiting a few months for issues to be resolved before attempting the upgrade.

I remember reading that there were issues with X-55 and Win 10 but are these resolved now?
 
There are now W10 Drivers and Control Panel available for the X55, they are still beta but they do work fine (at least I've had no problems).
 
Well my x55 replacement arrived today. Does anyone know if there have been any revisions of the hardware to stop the awful throttle problem? If not I need to decide if I should dismantle and try to shore up before it fails again. This will ruin my remaining warranty tho.

Model code 43215
Code on base G0154002943
 
The pro X55 does not come with the HEART technology (Hall effect) which means the stick will wear out in a few months or years and become very inaccurate to use. This has happened with every stick I have used except my thrustmaster pro (with HEART) and my x52 pro flight (with HEART). Basically, if you're looking for a stick, make sure it has HEART technology.

Not true: quote from the web-site: "enhanced 16-bit hall-effect sensors in the axis,"

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I put about 1,000 hours on mine over the course of about 7-8 months. No problems at all - throttle or stick.
 
Not true: quote from the web-site: "enhanced 16-bit hall-effect sensors in the axis,"

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I put about 1,000 hours on mine over the course of about 7-8 months. No problems at all - throttle or stick.
I fear it is not about hours of use... It is a combination of hours of use versus type of use.

The simple physics involved is that on the moving end of the throttle you have fourteen wires sleeved by quite brittle plastic these wires are clamped. Approximately 10cm away the wires are again clamped where they pass into the base of the throttle.

the wires have to bend every time the throttle moves and they can only bend at one location. The end result must surely always be the same...

Regarding serials numbers... My new throttle has a very similar number and I am assured these items have undergone several upgrades :) Hopefully the materials they have used are of a less brittle nature.
 
I fear it is not about hours of use... It is a combination of hours of use versus type of use.

The simple physics involved is that on the moving end of the throttle you have fourteen wires sleeved by quite brittle plastic these wires are clamped. Approximately 10cm away the wires are again clamped where they pass into the base of the throttle.

the wires have to bend every time the throttle moves and they can only bend at one location. The end result must surely always be the same...

Regarding serials numbers... My new throttle has a very similar number and I am assured these items have undergone several upgrades :) Hopefully the materials they have used are of a less brittle nature.

I'm not challenging the physics - the wires are bound to break - I'm just sharing my experience. I bounty hunt/spend time in CZ a lot, working the throttle. Is re-soldering them yourself not an option? Just asking. They seem to be color-coded. Will stick my nose into the device on the weekend, see if I can post a schematic for re-attaching those.
 
Sorry, both of mine only lasted 4 months. Then I bought kit that lasts.
Madcatz/Saitek are cheap, cheerful and short-lived with a poor (and declining) customer service ethic.

Good Luck!
 
I'm not challenging the physics - the wires are bound to break - I'm just sharing my experience. I bounty hunt/spend time in CZ a lot, working the throttle. Is re-soldering them yourself not an option? Just asking. They seem to be color-coded. Will stick my nose into the device on the weekend, see if I can post a schematic for re-attaching those.
Hi nazartp,
:) Well said regarding how you are kindly sharing your experiences and this is how we can perhaps all sing from the same hymn sheet.
 
Could not agree more, I had 3 X55 Rhino's in 5 months until I got my money back and I have an X52 which is still running well 10+ years later!
Madcatz are <Ahem>
Sorry, both of mine only lasted 4 months. Then I bought kit that lasts.
Madcatz/Saitek are cheap, cheerful and short-lived with a poor (and declining) customer service ethic.

Good Luck!
 
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I upgraded from win7 to win10 at weekend after the resolution of the SC issue for my R9 390X, the x55 worked as it did in win7. No issues. (except in the buggy)
 
The exact same thing that happened to CmdrJ just happened to me: I was setting up my brand new X-55 HOTAS, and playing with the Saitek H.U.D. software menus. I hadn't even used it in games yet. All 3 stick axes were registering fine in the Settings menu and then I hit the Calibrate Axes button at the bottom of the page because that seemed like a good thing to do.

Poof! No more X and Y axes on the stick, no matter what I try. Uninstall drivers and Saitek software. No XY axes. Re-install just the drivers. No XY axes. Re-install the HUD software, try the stick on a laptop without drivers and software, try it on the laptop with the software... no go... The stick doesn't have X and Y axes anymore, not even straight from the Windows USB controllers screen. In the Saitek H.U.D. Settings menu, those 2 axes do not register movement at all, and in the Programming menu, moving them does not active the corresponding programming box.

Every other button on the stick, and the rotation axis still work fine.

Makes no sense that the Saitek software would have fried the two main axes, and that has to be bad calibration data that was sent to the stick and stored there.

Is there a known way to do a factory reset on the X-55 stick? I've been looking online and haven't found anything.

I did fire up a support ticket with Mad Catz / Saitek, but even if they end up offering to replace my stick like what happened to CmdrJ, that's not a very appealing solution. I want to use it now. Or at least soon.

I hope someone here can help me out because I'm lost.

On my 2 days old, and in all other ways perfectly working, Saitek X55 Pro Rhino I decided to to a "Calibrate Axes" on the stick using the H.U.D. software. There were some deadzone issues that I hoped should get better by doing it.

What I surprise I got when both X and Y axis were gone after doing it. No response at all. All buttons and rudder still works on the stick and everything is fine with the throttle.
And it's not just in ED, the axes are gone everywhere.

I tried a lot of stuff to get it working without success...
  • Redo the calibration using H.U.D
  • Calibrate using the tool that is supplied with Windows
  • Reinstall drivers
  • Try another computer, with only drivers at first.
  • Try older version of drivers (on the alternate compute)
  • Calibrate with stick only connected
  • Powered USB hub
  • Another USB Hub
  • Different ports on the computer(s)
...are the things so far.

I only have Windows 7 x64 computers so there should not be any Win 8.1 issues.
I'm still waiting for a response from Saitek.
If anyone here could give me a hint on how to solve the issues I would be more than happy, otherwise I will have to return it.

Thanks in adv.
//Peter
 
Hi guys I have had the X55 Rhino since it was released. Great stick worked well. I have now had it 2 years plus and the issues I now have with it are. The buttons on the throttle stopped working.thefix is to take the throttle apart and cut out the broken wires that go up to the grip part of the throttle and replace them with new multi thread wire. don't wrap it in masking tape like Saitek do but put a couple of pig tail loops in it to spread the stain. The joystick buttons are now lagging. Having no taken the stick apart I have discovered that the hat switch buttons have lost their spring (caused by the menus up and down constant usage )I don't think I can get parts for the stick but I will contact the manufacturers. If of the buttons is held down due to the lack of spring then the joystick lags or doesn't respond. The fix either locate and replace the defective micro switch or get a different make of stick ( or buy the same stick and send the old one back after a couple of months for a refund BUT THIS IS DISHONEST and I could not condone this at all EVER )
 
My first X55 lasted about six months before the joystick wouldn't connect to the base anymore. Saitek replaced that one, now 7 months in and a new issue has come up. The bottom thumb button, which every one defaults to landing gear does not work when the throttle is around the 50% mark, it has to be either less than 30% or more than 70% for button to work. I really dont want to go through their RMA system again, I'm going to try for a refund this time and buy something else. =/
 
My first X55 lasted about six months before the joystick wouldn't connect to the base anymore. Saitek replaced that one, now 7 months in and a new issue has come up. The bottom thumb button, which every one defaults to landing gear does not work when the throttle is around the 50% mark, it has to be either less than 30% or more than 70% for button to work. I really dont want to go through their RMA system again, I'm going to try for a refund this time and buy something else. =/

After my second in-warranty replacement I demanded a refund because the thing was clearly not fit for purpose as it broke with the same faults every 4 months.
I don't regret my decision to get CH PRO sticks.
 
Unfortunately, I can't deal with Saitek directly, and re-seller have a policy of refunds after third replacement. And this third X-55 just. Won't. Die. :D
 
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