jgm just fixed his website so I can share my dual T.16000M binds, still a work in progress but I'm getting there. http://www.mcdee.net/elite/binds/xqllgq
The Joystick/Controller discussion thread
It was brand new in a sealed box. I bought it online from Target. I suppose it could be faulty but that wouldn't be my first guess.
Perfect !!! View attachment 90101
I was reborn after using this on my Hotas-X:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqzoJPCZM0w
Much more movement and aiming precision.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqzoJPCZM0w
Much more movement and aiming precision.
I had problems with a new T.Flight - the twist yaw was digital rather than analogue. Thrustmaster support suggested the Calibration tool and it sorted things out perfectly.
I ran the T.Flight for about 9 months then invested in CH Products Pro Throttle and Combat Stick and haven't looked back.
What is the device on the lower left (next to the Nostromo) please?
Yaw sensitivity/range
CH FighterStick, ProThrottle and ProPedals here.
I have a question on ED's use of the yaw axis range. Through testing by timing a 360 degree yaw turn (about 48 seconds) I've established that the Sidewinder in the first training mission uses somewhere between 50-60% of the yaw pedal range, meaning I can reduce the "Rudder [A3]"/"Z Axis" sensitivity from 100 to 60 in CH Control Manager without losing yaw speed in order to improve control. Will this hold true for all ships, or are there situtations in ED where the full pedal axis is used?
CH FighterStick, ProThrottle and ProPedals here.
I have a question on ED's use of the yaw axis range. Through testing by timing a 360 degree yaw turn (about 48 seconds) I've established that the Sidewinder in the first training mission uses somewhere between 50-60% of the yaw pedal range, meaning I can reduce the "Rudder [A3]"/"Z Axis" sensitivity from 100 to 60 in CH Control Manager without losing yaw speed in order to improve control. Will this hold true for all ships, or are there situtations in ED where the full pedal axis is used?
my understanding is that these are the most accurate joysticks on the market, better than the warthog or x52 or x55 by a factor of a lot (more than x10).
http://www.thrustmaster.com/products/t16000m
My understanding is that this technology boosts the resolution of movement by a lot:
Exclusive precision technology: H.E.A.R.T.– HALLEFFECT ACCURATE TECHNOLOGY™ !
3D (Hall Effect) magnetic sensors located on the stick:
Offer precision levels 256 times greater than current systems (i.e. a resolution attaining 16,000 x 16,000 values!)
Magnets ensure friction-free action for unlimited precision in time
Helical spring (2.8 mm diameter) located in the stick providing firm, linear and smooth tension
Is my understanding correct?
This isnt a hotas, but i am going to buy two for thrusters on left and roll pitch yaw in right (im right handed).
http://www.thrustmaster.com/products/t16000m
My understanding is that this technology boosts the resolution of movement by a lot:
Exclusive precision technology: H.E.A.R.T.– HALLEFFECT ACCURATE TECHNOLOGY™ !
3D (Hall Effect) magnetic sensors located on the stick:
Offer precision levels 256 times greater than current systems (i.e. a resolution attaining 16,000 x 16,000 values!)
Magnets ensure friction-free action for unlimited precision in time
Helical spring (2.8 mm diameter) located in the stick providing firm, linear and smooth tension
Is my understanding correct?
This isnt a hotas, but i am going to buy two for thrusters on left and roll pitch yaw in right (im right handed).
Last edited:
Probably better to find a Microsoft Sidewinder ForceFeedback 2 on eBay. A *FAR* better stick than any of the modern rubbish. No springs, just feedback motors and zero slop.
I got that stick from ebay (sealed in original box) very cheaply; about $30USD and it's been working perfectly.
I have never understood why MS did not capitalize on this superb piece of hardware (in almost everyone's opinion). I have the Sidewinder MK 1 on my retro box and use the FF2 USB for Elite (dual sticks). No joystick has ever fit my hand like the Sidewinder.
Last edited:
I just got a new CH Fighterstick to match the the CH Pro Throttle I've been using for 13+ years. My sturdy metal TM Cougar stick finally gave up the ghost, due to a static electricity zap. The plastic CH stick has an identical form and button layout, thanks to both being copies of an actual F-16 stick.
That's the setup I use. I find it spectacular and only need to touch the keyboard when typing the name of a system I want to jump to. Very sturdy and accurate!
I am calling this a 'great example of marketing'. How to push a
Hall Effect sensors cost less than a dollar. You can get 100 magnets for less than $5 on EBay or AliExpress. You connect them *exactly* the same as conventional potentiometers. (+5v, GND, signal).
Yes: they are much more accurate
Yes: they are more durable. No dust or rust will mess up the reading
Yes: it sounds awesome
No: 16000-value resolution is totally bonkers because potentiometer actually have an ANALOG output compare to a digital sensor. And we all know that analog is infinitely more precise than digital. Yes, the Hall Effect sensor *will* output 16bit values (0..32768) and the potentiometer *could* go for that many levels, *if* hardware builders would take the time to actually take the effort to source proper analog-to-digital converters.
No: the game probably doesn't care about 32bit input resolution as it is usually scaled down anyway.
No: proper potentiometers are probably even more expensive anyway, so the choice for using these sensors is probably just budget cuts.
Source: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-A1302...all-Effect-Sensors-Chip-Best-GM-/262136735852
BUT
----
As i think that the benefits totally outway the negatives i am converting my own joystick to use Hall Effect sensors, as an exercise. I think i'll be calling it H.E.I.S.T. Technology (Hall Effect is Superior Technobabble). Just my poor opinion.
That is incorrect.
Both T.16000M and Warthog use the same MLX90333 Hall Effect sensor chip in SPI mode. Internally, the chip has a 14bit ADC to convert the Hall plate analog signal to digital form for DSP processing. Then, if running in analog mode, a 12bit DAC is used to output an analog signal. And it does not have enough sampling rate to use over-sampling to boost resolution, see my article on resolution, http://www.hempstick.org/download/articles/OnResolution.pdf.
I don't have a Rhino, so take this with a huge grain of salt, and treat it as a hearsay... From what I heard, Rhino uses the same MLX90333.
Although a pot has a theoretical resolution of infinity, in practice it is never even close. If you have watched a pot signal on an oscilloscope, you'd find a lot of noises, including thermal noises, voltages spikes resulted from the wiper scraping over the conductive track, AC hum, digital noises from other digital circuits around, and all kinds of other junk (hey, some of those junk might even be the Cosmic Background Noises Penzias and Wilson picked up, you never know!). You would need a very expensive pot, filters (DSP or analog) to achieve what a cheap Hall sensor can achieve. In fact, a Hall sensor already needs some signal processing. MLX has the DSP built on die, Slaw implemented an additional DSP chip (expensive), and the el'cheapo Allegro Hall chips don't do nothing about it. You are supposed to implement your own filter in firmware or additional hardware/software when you use such a "raw" Hall chip, but most "simmers'" redneck solutions don't do nothing about it. Don't go the redneck route or what Slaw did, buy a ready made Hall pot. These days, even Honeywell has some off-the-shelf Hall pots at the price range of USD $30 (they used to charge an arm and a leg for it).
Last edited:
ExoForce has helped me a lot by posting the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqzoJPCZM0w
I have recalibrated the joystick on my Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS X. Now I have great precision with pitch, roll and yaw. Only thing that didn't work for me was copying the calibration curve for the throttle, it being on the left-hand slider control. If anyone knows where I have gone wrong with this please advise. My combat capabilities have been transformed.
I have recalibrated the joystick on my Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS X. Now I have great precision with pitch, roll and yaw. Only thing that didn't work for me was copying the calibration curve for the throttle, it being on the left-hand slider control. If anyone knows where I have gone wrong with this please advise. My combat capabilities have been transformed.
