X55 Rhino Button Layout with Reference Card
- Thread starter Sandcracka
- Start date
I need to add a couple of dumb questions. I get how I can use the TGL switches to navigate around the UI panels, by using the OP's set up, but
- can I invoke the UI without using 1,2,3,4 on my keyboard? The Target PAnel and sensors panel TGL don't seem to work.
- how do I move across the 'tabs' in the UI panels?
There are drilled holes all the way through both bases in all 4 corners. I'm sure you could secure anything to the bases that you want.
This will give you an idea of what I mean, bottom left by the word 'MODE'
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k556/SorynArkayn/X-55Rhino11-ThrottleBack_zps57604cf1.jpg
Has anyone had problems setting the controls? I've recently upgraded from T-Flight and can set the controls to x55 but I'm unable to change anything. For example, i cant scroll down past "enable mouse widget". I can use the castle hat to go up and down the list but cant go past "enable mouse widget" then if i use the hat to scroll to the top and press up again it scrolls up from the bottom but it doesnt stop.
I've unplugged the x55 and tried just setting something random(key board and mouse, to anything really)but again i cant scroll down the whole list of options.. This means that I'm stuck with the default x55 mapping and cant even scroll down the list to see what the mappings are. I've tried downloading a few of the custom binds that have been posted on this thread to have a fiddle with but i have the same problem..
I've unplugged the x55 and tried just setting something random(key board and mouse, to anything really)but again i cant scroll down the whole list of options.. This means that I'm stuck with the default x55 mapping and cant even scroll down the list to see what the mappings are. I've tried downloading a few of the custom binds that have been posted on this thread to have a fiddle with but i have the same problem..
My X-55 is scheduled to arrive tomorrow! Can't wait to try these mappings out.
OK. Well I think I started by loading a custom file from the top of this topic somewhere and then editing that. It certainly allowed me to use the mouse.
Thanks very much for info and image. It looks really heavy and maybe doesn't need attaching at all then. Does it move around when used without securing it ?
The X55 Rhino is $229 AUS from http://www.ple.com.au/ViewItem.aspx?InventoryItemId=615669 plus delivery (but I picked it up from Heatherton). The listed price today is $259 but you can still use the code PAXX55 to get the Melbourne PAX special price of $229. They have stock.
There are O ring rubbers under each of the corners (where the holes are). Personally I never have an issue with it moving while I'm using it, especially not the throttle.
I found the starter spring a bit too firm when I was using it, I've swapped to the Yellow spring instead and find that works great.
Hi everyone, I just bought this last week. So far, everything is great. I put in a lighter spring, yellow I think. The throttle can be a little stiff sometimes, but I have no other complaints.
This may be a noob question, but let's just say I use the Saitek software to create a profile. Then when I'm in the game, there is a drop down of profiles that ED has. Do I need to choose a certain one?
Thanks all in advance!
This may be a noob question, but let's just say I use the Saitek software to create a profile. Then when I'm in the game, there is a drop down of profiles that ED has. Do I need to choose a certain one?
Thanks all in advance!
There are O ring rubbers under each of the corners (where the holes are). Personally I never have an issue with it moving while I'm using it, especially not the throttle.
I found the starter spring a bit too firm when I was using it, I've swapped to the Yellow spring instead and find that works great.
Thanks for the info Badw0lf. I'm in an unusual situation with pc gaming where I'm playing it in my lounge, laying on the sofa most of the time. I had a custom acrylic shape cut that I hang over the back of my sofa and this holds either the throttle or a razer orbweaver keypad. My current throttle has sucker feet and it grips so well to the acrylic. The joystick is placed on a coffee table, a very heavy one, which I pull over to the couch. My issue would be attaching a stick base directly onto the coffee table as I wouldn't want to screw or bolt it down. That wouldn't go down too well with the wife
So sucker feet are an ideal option but with a light spring on the stick there's not so much need for the bolted down base.I think I'll get one and see what it's like, there's bound to be some way of fixing it temporarily.
I recently bought an X55 Rhino, and had a horrible issue with ghost clicks on the throttle body. I'd mapped my hardpoints, cargo scoop, landing gear, boost, and whatnot to the toggle switches or buttons on the throttle, and they were randomly firing as the throttle lever was moved forward and backwards. This was particularly exciting when docking, particularly when the landing gear would randomly retract, the cargo scoop would deploy, and I'd boost toward the deck of the station...
After doing some research, I tracked the problem down to an incompatibility between the X55 throttle and the AMD chipset on my motherboard. I'm using a MSI 870A-G54 with the AMD SB850 southbridge, and I'm not really in a position to replace it. After a lot of time on different flight sim forums looking for fixes, I tried the following options:
1) External powered USB hub. I have an Etekcity USB 3.0 external powered hub, so I first tried plugging the throttle body into that. Was originally when I noticed the ghost clicks, so that's not a solution.
2) Plugged the throttle into a USB 3.0 port on the motherboard. This was a really, really bad idea. The ghost clicks got much worse, to the point where it was actually pretty funny hearing all the things being activated/deactivated as I moved the throttle.
3) Plugged the throttle into a USB 2.0 port plugged into one of the USB headers on the mother board. This got rid of the majority of the ghost clicks, but they were still there. Accidental boosts are good at keeping things exciting. Wooo...
4) Changed my BIOS settings to disable USB legacy support. That did nothing to help with the throttle.
5) Local computer parts shop had a four-port USB 2.0 PCI card with a VIA USB chipset for only $8.50, so I bought one. Installed it in the PCI slot furthest from my video card, no drivers needed. Plugged the throttle into it. Bingo! Not one ghost click in the four hours I've played since.
I like the X55 quite a bit--now the ghost click issue's been resolved. For a while there I was very close to sending it back and buying an X-52 Pro. I'm using the yellow spring, but I find the twist function to be kind of sticky. I'm upgrading from a Cyborg 3D USB stick and I miss the adjustable handrest, but I'm getting used to it. The throttle, though--I really like that. Great action. So much better than the keypad I was using.
After doing some research, I tracked the problem down to an incompatibility between the X55 throttle and the AMD chipset on my motherboard. I'm using a MSI 870A-G54 with the AMD SB850 southbridge, and I'm not really in a position to replace it. After a lot of time on different flight sim forums looking for fixes, I tried the following options:
1) External powered USB hub. I have an Etekcity USB 3.0 external powered hub, so I first tried plugging the throttle body into that. Was originally when I noticed the ghost clicks, so that's not a solution.
2) Plugged the throttle into a USB 3.0 port on the motherboard. This was a really, really bad idea. The ghost clicks got much worse, to the point where it was actually pretty funny hearing all the things being activated/deactivated as I moved the throttle.
3) Plugged the throttle into a USB 2.0 port plugged into one of the USB headers on the mother board. This got rid of the majority of the ghost clicks, but they were still there. Accidental boosts are good at keeping things exciting. Wooo...
4) Changed my BIOS settings to disable USB legacy support. That did nothing to help with the throttle.
5) Local computer parts shop had a four-port USB 2.0 PCI card with a VIA USB chipset for only $8.50, so I bought one. Installed it in the PCI slot furthest from my video card, no drivers needed. Plugged the throttle into it. Bingo! Not one ghost click in the four hours I've played since.
I like the X55 quite a bit--now the ghost click issue's been resolved. For a while there I was very close to sending it back and buying an X-52 Pro. I'm using the yellow spring, but I find the twist function to be kind of sticky. I'm upgrading from a Cyborg 3D USB stick and I miss the adjustable handrest, but I'm getting used to it. The throttle, though--I really like that. Great action. So much better than the keypad I was using.
Hello everyone,
I'm having a strange problem which I think is related to the X55 (or any other joystick maybe?).
I'm using one the bindings files that were gracefully provided in the thread (thank you for that) and everything is perfect except for one thing:
- When entering the Galaxy Map, the camera automatically begins to drift upwards, without touching any buttons. It only happens when I'm using the x55.
Could it be because there's no deadzone set in the custom bindings? I've already calibrated the stick and it works correctly except for this.
Anyone encountered this problem?
I'm having a strange problem which I think is related to the X55 (or any other joystick maybe?).
I'm using one the bindings files that were gracefully provided in the thread (thank you for that) and everything is perfect except for one thing:
- When entering the Galaxy Map, the camera automatically begins to drift upwards, without touching any buttons. It only happens when I'm using the x55.
Could it be because there's no deadzone set in the custom bindings? I've already calibrated the stick and it works correctly except for this.
Anyone encountered this problem?
I was having similar issues with mine and I noted that if I held the stick the weight of my hand was enough to keep it central, but if I used the stick then let go naturally and do something else my ship would start to drift upwards. What I did is go into the calibration of the stick with the Saitek software pull the stick back and let go so it springs back on it's own and then recalibrated it. It's a lot better now and only drifts very very very slowly now.
I did try the deadzone option in ED, but it didn't seem to help plus I never had to do it with my old Thrustmaster. My trick is enough for me, but maybe a proper deadzone setting in the Saitek software would be better.
I did try the deadzone option in ED, but it didn't seem to help plus I never had to do it with my old Thrustmaster. My trick is enough for me, but maybe a proper deadzone setting in the Saitek software would be better.